Santa's "carry"

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:25 pm

Damn, that's using the old thinker, looks like you will get to my age if you keep up the good work.

greener · Post by **greener** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:32 pm

I forgot to add that I verified the hammer was down. I guess the next time I take a picture I'll find some better props.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:34 pm

greener wrote:I forgot to add that I verified the hammer was down. I guess the next time I take a picture I'll find some better props.

You did well, Grasshopper!!!!!!!!!!

Bud33 · Post by **Bud33** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:06 pm

To get back to the spring. . . as I remember it, one end of the spring is slightly smaller than the other. That end fits snugly over the guide. I always made it a point to assemble my guns with it that way. I'm not sure if there was a reason for this or if it was just a fluke in the manufacturing process.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:17 pm

Bud33 wrote:To get back to the spring. . . as I remember it, one end of the spring is slightly smaller than the other. That end fits snugly over the guide. I always made it a point to assemble my guns with it that way. I'm not sure if there was a reason for this or if it was just a fluke in the manufacturing process.

You are correct, that is the way it was intended to be used.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:31 am

I'm limited to my two examples.
both springs are closed/flat on one end and open on the other.
both plugs are free from any "catch/notch" to hold the open-end.
I did not notice any difference in the Inside-Diameter that would
serve to grasp the guide-rod...

speaking of which...
what recoil spring-strengths (ie. pounds)
are best used for Full-power-Ball ammo
versus some lighter powder/bullet practice ammo ?

Is there a powder, bullet, spring "range" to stay in for
reliable cycle of the 1911a1 ?

-- toy

Bud33 · Post by **Bud33** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:52 am

toyfj40 wrote:dspeaking of which...
what recoil spring-strengths (ie. pounds)
are best used for Full-power-Ball ammo
versus some lighter powder/bullet practice ammo ?

Is there a powder, bullet, spring "range" to stay in for
reliable cycle of the 1911a1 ?

-- toy

I never measured springs with respect to weight but I did measure them in length and found that springs that worked best for hard ball were at least 7 inches in length.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:58 pm

If my memory is still iuntact, I believe it is a #14 spring, do not quote me on that one.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 1:07 pm

Bud33 wrote:I never measured springs with respect to weight

oops. poorly phrased question.
I did not mean the weight (pounds) of the spring,
but the pounds-pressure to compress...
one example... a "1911 Gov" recoil spring might
be 12-14-16 pounds of pressure to compress...

Wolff even has a 27# spring, see their brief description.
( also note the recoil-spring image: open/closed ends... )

Factory: Gov-16#, Cmdr-18#, Officer-22#

I was asking for any experience of relating:
recoil spring(pressure) with 230gr Ball (powder load)
vs 185gr Wad-cutter(powder load)
and using one-spring... or changing springs for each cartridge...

-- toy

Bud33 · Post by **Bud33** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 1:59 pm

I knew what you meant but when I was shooting in competition and building guns, (1960 to early 1970) we measured the spring with a ruler. If it was 7 inches or longer it was suitable for hardball and the shorter ones were used for wad guns... We sort of went by trial and error.
Those were the days of WAFG engineering ( Wild a$$ f*(%#@^ guess).

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:10 pm

On my full size 1911 I am using I am pretty sure a 14 pound spring and a small radius firing pin stop, the stock one worked well also. My Micro and the V-10 use the stock spring and they run fine also with either 230FMJ factory ammo or my handloads of 200 grain LSWC with 6.5 grains of Alliant Green Dot, it works foe me. The only ammo I have ever had a problem with was Wolf and it had a tendency to have a weak round once in a while that would not cycle the Micro. CCI Blazer is a fairly hot load and it works well in all my guns. The small radius firing pin stop slows the slide down a little on the way back and with the shok buff helps reduce muzzle jump as the 14# spring helps to reduce muzzle dip as the slide returns to battery. If you really want a lot of 1911 information go to this web site, http://forum.m1911.org/

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:39 pm

thanks for the "clarifications"...

as mentioned, my old digital-camera doesn't do Close-In shots well...
but here is the 'hole in the plug'... with a toothpick for reference. -toy

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:52 pm

Looks totally useless to me, must be a previous owner modification,, how many times has it changed hands. Tex , just forget it's there and shoot the gun and enjoy. There is something about the feeling of a .45 Auto that just makes you feel good all over. Of course you could just buy a standard part and replace it butt why waste the money you can use to buy ammo...

greener · Post by **greener** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:16 pm

Hard to tell from the picture, but the cap looks about normal.

PS. I didn't take this one.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:21 pm

greener wrote:Hard to tell from the picture, but the cap looks about normal.

I'll try again...
but the toothpick is inserted into a rough-drilled hole
in the midst of the checkered-plug.
my slightly out-of-focus closeup makes the remaining "checkered ring"
appear to be a machined ring-guide for the full-length guide rod...

no, I do not have a (custody) provenance...
and likely do not want to know...

--toy