22/45 seized, unable to disassemble
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
22/45 seized, unable to disassemble
Hello all, I’m a new forum member and look forward to receiving some advice and, in the future, hope I can add to the conversation as well.
I have a 22/45 that I worked on this weekend to remove the magazine disconnect components and replace them with a modified hammer bushing. After I installed the replacement hammer bushing, I reassembled the pistol. The pistol is not functioning and it’s obvious I did something wrong.
The parts which seem to be functioning properly are the magazine (inserts & drops freely) and bolt (locks back w/mag, returns to battery when bolt stop depressed).
The problem symptoms are:
1 - The trigger moves freely with no spring tension in either direction and has no connection to the sear. The hammer does not drop.
2 - When I try to disassemble the pistol, the Mainspring Housing Assembly releases 1/2”, then no further. The MHA definitely has greater-than-normal outward spring tension pushing it away from the frame, but it only moves 1/2”.
3 - I tried dropping the hammer by inserting the mag, depressing the trigger and tapping with the muzzle down, but nothing changed.
I’m considering removing the sear and/or hammer pin as a next step, but need some advice before I do anything which might make things worse.
Thanks!
I have a 22/45 that I worked on this weekend to remove the magazine disconnect components and replace them with a modified hammer bushing. After I installed the replacement hammer bushing, I reassembled the pistol. The pistol is not functioning and it’s obvious I did something wrong.
The parts which seem to be functioning properly are the magazine (inserts & drops freely) and bolt (locks back w/mag, returns to battery when bolt stop depressed).
The problem symptoms are:
1 - The trigger moves freely with no spring tension in either direction and has no connection to the sear. The hammer does not drop.
2 - When I try to disassemble the pistol, the Mainspring Housing Assembly releases 1/2”, then no further. The MHA definitely has greater-than-normal outward spring tension pushing it away from the frame, but it only moves 1/2”.
3 - I tried dropping the hammer by inserting the mag, depressing the trigger and tapping with the muzzle down, but nothing changed.
I’m considering removing the sear and/or hammer pin as a next step, but need some advice before I do anything which might make things worse.
Thanks!
224fiver
- blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Sound like the Disconnector spring is not in the trigger (under plunger). Hammer is cocked by the way the main spring opens. If this is the case, drop the mag so you can push up on the disconnector. Then squeeze the trigger to drop the hammer then take the gun back apart. Or turn the gun upside down and shake then try squeezing the trigger.
Over on the service guide their is a trouble shooting guide. www.guntalk-online.com/service.html
Over on the service guide their is a trouble shooting guide. www.guntalk-online.com/service.html
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
blue68100, thanks for your response. The mag disconnector has been removed. The trigger is free-floating and has no connection with the sear/trigger. Turning the gun upside down an shaking/squeezing the trigger has no effect since the trigger is free-floating and has no effect on the sear/trigger.
Last edited by 224fiver on Sun Jun 03, 2012 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
224fiver
The reason the trigger feels as if it is not connected is because there is a long silver bar (called the disconnector) located along the right side of the frame that is not engaging the sear.

It is designed to swing up and down by pivoting at the top of the trigger. When the bolt opens this part is pushed downward and prevents the hammer from being released again when the bolt closes and the trigger is still in the rearward position. The disconnector is reengaged with the sear when the trigger is released and the disconnector bar is forced upward by the trigger return spring and plunger. Once up, the disconnector tab can contact the back side of the sear and the trigger is once again connected for another pull. Right now your disconnector is not engaging the back side of the sear, giving you that feeling like the trigger is not connected. Typically, this means either the trigger return plunger or the plunger spring may have been left out. By flipping the pistol upside down you're asking gravity to do the work that the spring and plunger would ordinarily perform.
Because the hammer is not in the fully forward position you cannot remove the mainspring housing as you've already found out.
You cannot move the hammer forward using the muzzle down technique because the sear is holding the hammer in the cocked position.
There is a way to release the sear manually using a long metal tool called a hooked scribe. The procedure involves snaking the scribe up into the magazine well and sliding it into the slot in the front of the sear and pulling downward to release the sear. This thread shows how to position the scribe to release the sear http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421 You don't need a magazine inserted since you removed the magazine safety disconnector hook.
As a last resort, you can drift out the sear pin but you will bend up the sear return spring in the process. If you choose this course of action the spring must be rebent into its original position. The spring looks like this one in the proper orientation.

The back leg is in straight alignment with the lower portion of the loop.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
It is designed to swing up and down by pivoting at the top of the trigger. When the bolt opens this part is pushed downward and prevents the hammer from being released again when the bolt closes and the trigger is still in the rearward position. The disconnector is reengaged with the sear when the trigger is released and the disconnector bar is forced upward by the trigger return spring and plunger. Once up, the disconnector tab can contact the back side of the sear and the trigger is once again connected for another pull. Right now your disconnector is not engaging the back side of the sear, giving you that feeling like the trigger is not connected. Typically, this means either the trigger return plunger or the plunger spring may have been left out. By flipping the pistol upside down you're asking gravity to do the work that the spring and plunger would ordinarily perform.
Because the hammer is not in the fully forward position you cannot remove the mainspring housing as you've already found out.
You cannot move the hammer forward using the muzzle down technique because the sear is holding the hammer in the cocked position.
There is a way to release the sear manually using a long metal tool called a hooked scribe. The procedure involves snaking the scribe up into the magazine well and sliding it into the slot in the front of the sear and pulling downward to release the sear. This thread shows how to position the scribe to release the sear http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421 You don't need a magazine inserted since you removed the magazine safety disconnector hook.
As a last resort, you can drift out the sear pin but you will bend up the sear return spring in the process. If you choose this course of action the spring must be rebent into its original position. The spring looks like this one in the proper orientation.

The back leg is in straight alignment with the lower portion of the loop.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye

Success! The hooked scribe procedure worked. After disassembling, I now see the trigger spring plunger is missing. It must have dropped out when I was working on the hammer bushing. I've scoured my work area for the plunger to no avail. Looks like I'll need to order one from Ruger or some other source. Thanks for the help, Bullseye & blue68100.
224fiver
- blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
Glad you got it, that fine little spring has gotten away from many. A spring from a pen will work in a pinch....I have used them to lighten the trigger. Start longer than needed (5/16") and cut 1/4 turn off at a time till you get the resistance you want.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
Look carefully around where you did the procedure and I'm sure you'll find it. A powerful magnet can help reveal where it may have scurried off to in your work area.
The long hooked scribe procedure will also work on a Mark III with the mag safety hook in place you just have to use another tool, like a very long shafted flat blade screwdriver, to trip the safety hook before pulling down the scribe to move the sear.
R,
Bullseye
The long hooked scribe procedure will also work on a Mark III with the mag safety hook in place you just have to use another tool, like a very long shafted flat blade screwdriver, to trip the safety hook before pulling down the scribe to move the sear.
R,
Bullseye
