MK III with tactical solutions barrel

bigstick0000 · Post by **bigstick0000** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:27 pm

I had helicoils installed in my tact sol barrel and just got it back from the factory. There was a note that stated I need to shorten my guide rod and then my gun would run better and disassemble easier. Anyone have a clue how to do this or what it even means? thanks

Baldy · Post by **Baldy** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:59 am

I would call them and ask them. You got me stumped..

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:07 am

Welcome to GunTalk-Online!

I'm really not sure what they meant either since the recoil assembly, with guide rod, is a complete unit. Is your bolt stop particularly difficult to insert or remove in the receiver?

I went ahead and moved this to the Rimfire Pistols forum since you were inquiring about a Mark III pistol.

R,
Bullseye

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:39 pm

Maybe they think the screws are too long???? Would be best to call them.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:46 pm

Hi blue68f100,

I got a 22/45 5.5 inch bull barrrel and it's pretty accurate. I can hit tennis balls at 15 yards offhand consistently. later on I like to buy another ruger like yours (SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter)...How do you like your ruger? Is it more accurate than 22/45 5.5? It looks gorgeous to me when I hold it in my hand...I think that i'll be my next buy...Thanks...

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:16 pm

Kenny, Welcome to Guntalk-Online

Not to high jack this thread, small diversion here.

It best to start a new thread if you want a larger discussion.

Accuracy is pretty much the same through all of the Ruger MK's line. The Hunter model is just a bull barrel that had been lightened up with different sights. The longer sight plane helps with open sights on alignment. But once you install optics they all become equal, with the only difference being the added velocity as the barrel length increases. With my aging eyes I need all the help I can get. I do like mine, and have tricked out the trigger. Which is a common mod on these MKIII's. I have put close to 10k rounds through mine in the last 2 yrs. It gets a work out on every range trip. These are just a blast to shoot. I even have a 2x scope for it, that I use for longer distances.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:58 pm

Thanks, blue...So I am going to buy a red dot then for now to make it more accurate and maybe VQ sear, trigger and Clark bushing. Those things add more than 100 dollars to my pistol...But I think it's worth it, right?

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:51 am

Red dot are a life saver for those of us who can't see the iron sights. And the other add on ( Clark Bushing and VQ Sear) I think are well worth the money for what you end up with.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:11 pm

I just ordered VQ sear, trigger and Clark bushing...Blue, did you install LCI filler from Bruce at rimfirecentral.com? By looking at the pics, it's very well made.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:35 pm

My gun functions fine with the LCI in place, and clean. When it gets dirty, which is around 2k rounds it's time for a detail clean. So my LCI is actually used to tell me when it's time to detail clean my gun. When you clean the bolt and breach face after every outing, give the metal tab a push and see if it springs back with out lag. If it does not it's time to clean.

If your one that just spray your gun down and call it clean you will gum up the LCI quickly. It's a magnet for all the powder residue.

If your having stove pipe jams you can remove the metal tab and disable the LCI.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:41 am

So your LCI acts like a timer as to how dirty it gets. It's an interesting concept. That means it does not bother you so much that you have to remove it. My LCi has not given me any problems so far (4 weeks of owning). Yes, more lube to and around LCI is not good, making it gum up quickly...Let's see if I have any stove pipe jams, I'll disable it or replace it with Bruce LCI filler...Thanks, blue...

greener · Post by **greener** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:45 pm

kennytt wrote:So your LCI acts like a timer as to how dirty it gets. It's an interesting concept. That means it does not bother you so much that you have to remove it. My LCi has not given me any problems so far (4 weeks of owning). Yes, more lube to and around LCI is not good, making it gum up quickly...Let's see if I have any stove pipe jams, I'll disable it or replace it with Bruce LCI filler...Thanks, blue...

Belated welcome to the forum.

I said I'd remove/replace the LCI on my MKIII's when they created some problem other than collecting more crude. That was about 2006 and 2007. Not much of a problem in that time.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:13 pm

Hi greener, thanks...Removing LCI makes it easier for you to clean the breech area?

bigfatdave · Post by **bigfatdave** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:33 am

kennytt wrote:Hi greener, thanks...Removing LCI makes it easier for you to clean the breech area?

Not on mine, but it did eliminate ejection and feeding issues for one of my mkIIIs (the other was pulled just to make me feel better, probably)

The slot left behind is pretty small, you won't be getting any tools in there, and the ejection port supplies plenty of access to the breech. It is nice to not have to work around the internal portion of the LCI, I suppose ... I'm lazy, I just push all the junk I dislodge out through the slot and then blow clean with air in the end.

kennytt · Post by **kennytt** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 7:29 pm

hi bigfatdave, I don't know if removing the LCI and leave it without any filler is OK or not. Does it have any negative effects on its functions? Or it helps cooling down the pistol during long shooting session? I think that if it does not bother you, why install the filler? You can still visually check if it's loaded or not...