Trigger pull gage?
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Trigger pull gage?
How do I go about finding a reasonably priced, accurate, trigger pull gage?
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- Regular contributor
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I'm not at all worried about the minimal labor involved in a dead weight set up, of course. Only be evaluating a few guns' triggers, though it seems important to do so until I have what I believe I need.
I may have reason to test some of my older L-Frame revolver actions in addition to the Mark II's I'm working with now.
I'd opt for accuracy over ease of use, and then, or equally, price.
I may have reason to test some of my older L-Frame revolver actions in addition to the Mark II's I'm working with now.
I'd opt for accuracy over ease of use, and then, or equally, price.
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- Regular contributor
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My target price range these days is 'as low cost as is possible'. I tear Bounty towels into many pieces to save money, etc. I was guestimating about $25 for an accurate gauge. I haven't priced them at all yet.
I have no qualms about putting together my own gauge, especially if it is very accurate. The weights I'd be measuring would all most likely be under 10 lbs, and rarely that much.
I have no qualms about putting together my own gauge, especially if it is very accurate. The weights I'd be measuring would all most likely be under 10 lbs, and rarely that much.
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- Georgezilla
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Bullseye, I'm not sure if this is applicable to the rig you would recommend FourCornerm'n make, but I'll suggest it anyway.
To meter trigger pulls, I use water for the dead weight. Water is 237 grams per U.S. cup. Since the weight can be measured by volume, FourCornerm'n would not need to obtain an appropriate scale (I make the assumption that he has a measuring cup
).
To meter trigger pulls, I use water for the dead weight. Water is 237 grams per U.S. cup. Since the weight can be measured by volume, FourCornerm'n would not need to obtain an appropriate scale (I make the assumption that he has a measuring cup

Yes he could use water if he has an accurate measuring cup handy. By using water he would need 15.35 fluid ounces of water per pound, which is just under 2 cups per pound. In order to measure his trigger pull a minimum of an one half gallon container would need to be used. A plastic gallon milk jug might be the ideal instrument for the measurement.
Do you have an ability to bend some metal rod? Your going to bend it in the shape of this style trigger pull weight set.

The only difference is the bottom will be hook shaped to attach a cord instead of directly mounted to the weights like in the picture.
If not, then you could make a trigger gauge like this one http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/tr ... /index.asp
R,
Bullseye
Do you have an ability to bend some metal rod? Your going to bend it in the shape of this style trigger pull weight set.

The only difference is the bottom will be hook shaped to attach a cord instead of directly mounted to the weights like in the picture.
If not, then you could make a trigger gauge like this one http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/tr ... /index.asp
R,
Bullseye

- Georgezilla
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The bottom bed to the rod would be more like the rod in this Brownells photo. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/ ... 4000_1.jpg Notice how the rod is bent into an eye configuration. That would be how the question mark styled rod would be at the bottom end.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye

- blue68f100
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Hanging the water jug would be a very verstal option. Just add water slowly till the hammer drops. Then weight the jug with scales, will get you pretty close. As long as you do not add water very fast it should work nicely.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
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It looks like any measurable container with the right amount of poured sand or water will provide the info I want to know. This is for Ruger Mark II's at present, so the weight will be under 4 lbs (dang well better be - after action work [which seems quite good] ).
The water pour could be done using a turkey baster to slow or dribble the flow. I'll go looking for pieces to put this together tomorrow or Saturday. I don't know why it seemed like a more modern tech solution appeared necessary. This is stuff that if I didn't have you guys to ask, I might've eventually figured out myself. Thanks for the time saving input and details.
Seems like having the rod bent at close to a 90 degree angle (or a couple degrees tighter) would keep the system stable. And the eye hook end in the photo from Brownells makes sense, too. I'll make another post if I need help or when I have results. Thanks, again.
The water pour could be done using a turkey baster to slow or dribble the flow. I'll go looking for pieces to put this together tomorrow or Saturday. I don't know why it seemed like a more modern tech solution appeared necessary. This is stuff that if I didn't have you guys to ask, I might've eventually figured out myself. Thanks for the time saving input and details.
Seems like having the rod bent at close to a 90 degree angle (or a couple degrees tighter) would keep the system stable. And the eye hook end in the photo from Brownells makes sense, too. I'll make another post if I need help or when I have results. Thanks, again.
- Georgezilla
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If you use water, make sure you clean off any water after you check the weight, especially check for water that could have gotten in the barrel. I'm sure you will be careful and no water will get on them, but a reminder never hurts.
The rig I made is on loan or I would take a picture for you. My rig is way over complicated and bulky. Unless you have the stuff lying around and the time like I did, I would not recommend making a similiar rig. But I figured I'd share the design...
My rig consists of plank with an old modified vise bolted on it (the jaws have been lined with felt). When I am testing, the pistol is held in the vise. I drilled many holes in the board so that a rod device, like Bullseye linked, can be put through the board to engage the pistol's trigger (different holes are used depending on the tested pistol). I then mounted the above setup on an all-purpose 5-gallon drum that I cut a large window out of. Inside the drum is another smaller bucket that attaches to the rod that operates the pistol's trigger. The smaller bucket also has a window in it for easy pouring.
The rig I made is on loan or I would take a picture for you. My rig is way over complicated and bulky. Unless you have the stuff lying around and the time like I did, I would not recommend making a similiar rig. But I figured I'd share the design...
My rig consists of plank with an old modified vise bolted on it (the jaws have been lined with felt). When I am testing, the pistol is held in the vise. I drilled many holes in the board so that a rod device, like Bullseye linked, can be put through the board to engage the pistol's trigger (different holes are used depending on the tested pistol). I then mounted the above setup on an all-purpose 5-gallon drum that I cut a large window out of. Inside the drum is another smaller bucket that attaches to the rod that operates the pistol's trigger. The smaller bucket also has a window in it for easy pouring.
You can also bend the rod with two ninety degree bends. Make them complementary and about 5 inches apart, This would create a question mark looking rod with the ninety degree bend portions in the shape of a half rectangle. A piece of 1/4 inch diameter steel rod will work fine. For the best results, heat the rod parts "cherry red" with a torch then bend them. You can place a piece of plastic tubing over the part that will engage the trigger.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
