Gunsafes

This is a place to discuss shooting related topics and techniques.

Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators

Post Reply
Mr. Nail
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 149
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:44 pm
Location: Meigs,Ga

Gunsafes

Post by Mr. Nail » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:30 am

Im fixing to get my first safe and I always hear of people putting heaters or chemicals in their safes. Can anyone enliting me on what their talking about and what these things are for? I was going to just put my guns in there without using any thing. Would that be O.K.?

User avatar
blue68f100
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
Location: Piney Woods of East Texas

Post by blue68f100 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 12:18 pm

The heat rods and chemical driers are to keep the moisture low so your investment does not rust. I have a heat rod in mine plus I keep my rifles in a silicone treated gun sock. I oil swab the barrels and wipe things down real good when I preparing the guns for storage too.


btw. Welcome to Guntalk-Online
David

SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911

Mr. Nail
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 149
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:44 pm
Location: Meigs,Ga

Gunsafes

Post by Mr. Nail » Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:11 pm

Thanks for the knowledge.This will be my 1st safe. Ive always kept my guns on some high shelves in my home, but now Im really getting up there w/ the amount I do have invested. Ive never had a problem w/ rust unless maybe I came home from a week of hunting. I always break em down, clean and oil them after firing them. They also never sit long without me tinkering w/ em. Im kind of a penny pincher, are these heat rods and chem. driers something I could do w/out ?

User avatar
blue68f100
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
Location: Piney Woods of East Texas

Post by blue68f100 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 5:16 pm

I would go with one type or the other. Moisture is always in the air, but varies from where your are in the world. If you live in a low humidity area , <30% you may be fine without anything. But most house holds run low during the winter while the heat is on and higher when the AC is on. The electric ones you just plug them in and your done, normally less the $30. The desicant type you have to be recharge every so often to reactivate them. This involves putting them in the over for a while to drive out the moisture. These normally have an indicator when it times to recharge.

I would use one. They are a lot cheaper than having a gun damaged due to rust. But if your one who shoots a lot and routinely shoots the guns and cleans your gun's you may not need one. I know of several persons who check and reclean their guns every month or so. Gun socks also keep moisture away from the gun. But I do not think any one system is bullet proof.
David

SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911

Tbag
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:28 pm
Location: FL

Post by Tbag » Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:42 pm

I rigged a small light 30 watt light bulb in mine, never have had an issue and I can see.

User avatar
blue68f100
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
Location: Piney Woods of East Texas

Post by blue68f100 » Thu Mar 25, 2010 11:05 pm

I think the heaters on only 12watts.
David

SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911

Mr. Nail
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 149
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:44 pm
Location: Meigs,Ga

Gunsafes

Post by Mr. Nail » Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:28 am

Appreciate it guys. Ill check into it a little more after I get the safe.

User avatar
blue68f100
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 1997
Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
Location: Piney Woods of East Texas

Post by blue68f100 » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:13 am

Most safes made have a hole pre-punched in the back for the heater rods to go through. Since most all safes use a armor steel it takes a great effort to dill. These rods lay out of the way and do not interfere with your guns. They are not hot enough to burn anything. Since you generally install these before you anchor them to the floor I would have one on hand to install. Some safes have an electrical outlet in them and it does make it easier to add one later. Do anchor the safe.
David

SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911

Mr. Nail
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 149
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:44 pm
Location: Meigs,Ga

Post by Mr. Nail » Sun Mar 28, 2010 8:24 am

10-4 Ive seen these. Id like to get the one w/ the outlet. Looking to spend about 600. I know Im not going to set up fort knox w/ that but itll be ideal enough for me.

User avatar
Hakaman
Master contributor
Master contributor
Posts: 1940
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 8:51 pm
Location: detroit, michigan

Post by Hakaman » Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:00 am

I have a series of 3 halogen light in my safe. They can put out the heat, but I don't run them all the time. Even when I do, it's on the low setting. I have primers and ammo in there, got to be careful not to start a nasty fire.
h

Mr. Nail
Regular contributor
Regular contributor
Posts: 149
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:44 pm
Location: Meigs,Ga

Post by Mr. Nail » Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:23 am

I heard that. That would defeat the purpose of the safe huh?

Post Reply