Shooting 38sp out of 357mag.

SShearer · Post by **SShearer** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:03 pm

I've been running low on large pistol primers lately so decided to take the Python to the range. I normally just shoot 148gr. 38WC out of it, does the extra distance the bullet has to jump to the lands hurt accuracy much? If so what would be an accurate and mild load for a 357mag. case shooting the same bullet?

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:00 pm

You will probably loose a little since it will probably shave a little lead in the cylinder. This may depends on how the bullet is sized to your barrel. As to how much I have no idea. The only way to know is shoot them side by side and see if you can see the difference.

I do know on my python that I lead mainly where the rifling starts in the barrel. I have always shot 357mag and very little 38spl. I have 100 rounds of LSWC and that's all. I will be shooting these up in the next week or so. I will not be shooting exposed lead any more after that. My indoor range where I shoot does not allow lead, so I have to shoot them else where. So I have decided to shoot range safe ammo from here on out.

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:12 pm

You shouldn't notice any appreciable difference in accuracy by shooting .38 in your Python's .357 cylinder. You may even have a higher degree of accuracy with the tamer recoil of the 38 Spl. load. One thing you will notice is a need for more frequent cleaning as the cylinder will tend to lead/foul more with the shorter cartridge.

R,
Bullseye

SShearer · Post by **SShearer** » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:12 pm

Thanks guys, that's what I was hoping to hear. I'll keep shooting my same loads and your right about the cylinder it gets very fouled up inside and out. I like not having to pick up my brass but cleaning that thing is a pain. Thanks again.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:00 pm

SShearer wrote:cleaning that thing is a pain. Thanks again.

Mine is a 6" Nickle, that had custom work done at Colt, tuning and sights. I take me over an hour to clean it. It clean up easier if I shoot jacked rounds. I've learned not to get it hot or it's takes a lot more effort to clean the cylinder.

SShearer · Post by **SShearer** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:02 pm

That's a beauty, sometimes I wish I would have gotten stainless or nickel, I'm probably going to wear the blue off just cleaning it .

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:54 pm

After have this gun for some time (1977) I made a decision NEVER to buy another Ni finished gun in a revolver. They just take a lot of time to clean.

greener · Post by **greener** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:42 pm

Nice looking revolver, blue68f100. You've kept it quite well.

Most of the rounds out of my .357's are .38 specials. I get the bathtub ring in the cylinders that takes a while to clean out. I have plenty of .38 spl brass and the .38 spl loads do nice jobs for paper punching. Doesn't seem to be worth the extra few minutes to go the .38-loads in .357 casings route.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 3:39 pm

The cylinder has always taken the longest time to clean. Mainly the section between the cylinders. This area see the most heat. If I only shoot 6-12 rounds it's not a problem. But if I take the gun to shoot, normally it's a box min. It takes the same amount of time to clean so I might as well enjoy it. I do let the gun cool between cylinders. I have found if I can touch it with out getting burned it's ok to shoot. If I shoot it when the cylinder is hot its a bear to clean. I do know when I was shooting 50-100/wk I got real good with this gun, DA or SA. It always attracted a crowd when at the range. I have always let other shoot it. Most light up after the 1st shot. The trigger on this gun is the best I have ever found on any gun. It will ravel the best 45 in SA. I get a surprise break every time I squeeze the trigger. This gun is still very tight. If I get a flake of powder under the brass ejector the cylinder will not close.

I have shot this gun a lot over the years, mainly past. My guess I have put over 3k rounds through it with 98% LSWC. I always shoot a cylinder of std jacketed after every session. I did not see the point in hammering the gun with mag loads all the time. When I got this gun I could reload 137gr LSWC for about 0.03/round. I had a local shooter that was a judge, that got into casting big time and I was able to get 1000 LSWC for $18. Those days are long gone. Primers were $9/k, which we will never see those prices again.

Ripsaw · Post by **Ripsaw** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:03 pm

I load the .357 mag brass at 3.0 gr Bullseye with 148 gr LEE TLWC boolits.

2.8 gr for .38 special. Both are seated at the last lube TL groove so there is about .060 exposed boolit.

This helps keep it clean a bit longer. THe combination of liquid alox lube and Bullseye makes for dirty revolvers. Accuracy however, is the name of the game.

Ripsaw

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:21 pm

I've always been grateful for the various lead cleaning cloths on the market. They seem to work equally well, but Birchwood-Casey is easiest for me to find local. One trick I've learned is folding the cloth over a used-up gift card. Then I have a stiff edge to get into corners better.

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:57 am

Good trick! And if the card should wear through the cloth it won't marr the finish of the firearm.

R,
Bullseye

bgreenea3 · Post by **bgreenea3** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:04 pm

The "bathtub ring" as Greener put it is a pain to clean out, I don't shoot too many 357 mags out of my gp100 so I get a good ring. i've found using one of the Foaming bore cleaners and letting it sit about 30-45 min loosens it up nicely and cuts down on the scrubbing. I'm using the Outers foaming bore cleaner currently