Gp100 trigger group problem

[bgreenea3]

So I removed the trigger group from my gp100 to do a good cleaning on it (de-crud and relube), my pawl plunger and spring launched and are now somewhare in my basement never to be heard of again. I called ruger they sent me new ones over the weekend +1 for service!
I installed the little bugger and now the cylendar latch won't reset. the pawl pulnger/spring push the trigger link forward to reset the cylendar latch. if that doesn't happen the whole mess locks up. upon inspection it appears that the pawl is hitting the trigger link and the trigger link plunger, causing the trigger to no fully reset.
after getting frustrated, assembling, disassembling, working the trigger with out the trigger guard latch spring in (and then it worked) reinstalling the big spring and it didn't work. I gave up last night.
anybody have any ideas or do i pack it up and send it to ruger?

[Bullseye]

I posted this GP-100 trigger group exploded view in an earlier thread-



In the earlier thread, http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... php?t=1694 , the cylinder was failing to latch. Perhaps the picture will be of assistance for you with reassembly. Your problem sounds like a part is installed improperly, but which one is causing the problem without being able to see the parts, is a difficult call to make.

Here's a procedure to help with GP-100 trigger group reassembly. Before beginning, there are two plunger and spring sets - Ensure you have the shorter spring with the trigger pawl plunger as the cylinder latch plunger gets the longer spring.

First, insert the trigger return/trigger guard latch spring (part# KT03800). Insert the trigger guard latch (part# T04600) with the flat surface up. Hold the latch in with your left thumb against spring tension while inserting the latch-retaining pin (part# KE-22) into the hole with your right hand. Make sure the retaining pin is flush on both sides. Hold the trigger all the way back with your left hand and middle finger. Insert the pawl spring and plunger (parts# KH05000 & KH05100) into the hole of the trigger, just under the cam surface. Apply a small drop of oil to the plunger. Start the pawl shaft into the hole with the pawl leaning forward. Be sure to push the plunger down while sliding the pawl in.

Note: the plunger and spring are notorious for launching. (As you've previously discovered) This step is best done inside a clear plastic bag to prevent losing the plunger & spring.

Once the pawl is in all the way, position it vertically and allow the trigger to move forward. Pull the trigger back slightly, apply a small drop of oil to the transfer bar lug then insert the transfer bar (part# KT01700) into the hole opposite the pawl. Allow the trigger to spring forward to retain both the transfer bar and pawl. Set the trigger guard assembly aside for now.

Next, it is time for reassembly, pick up the frame and ensure the cylinder is latched closed in the frame. Apply a drop of oil to the trigger pivot pin and trigger plunger. Hold the gun with the muzzle down and insert the front tab of the trigger guard assembly into the frame notch. Snap the trigger guard assembly into position. Note: if the trigger guard assembly doesn’t snap in, don’t force it. Chances are the transfer bar or the pawl is not positioned properly. You may be able to position the parts by inserting a guide wire through the hammer slot. Once the trigger guard assembly is snapped in, make sure it is fully latched and the surfaces of the frame mate with the surfaces of the trigger guard assembly. Pull the trigger all the way back and hold it there. Drop the hammer into the slot. Turn the gun sideways with the serial number side up. Align the hammer’s frame hole with the hammer hole. Apply a drop of oil on the hammer pivot pin then insert it into the frame. Release the trigger. With the hammer fully forward, insert the hammer strut assembly in the grip frame. The straight edge of the strut goes up. The notched end of the strut seat goes down with the flat surface to the front. Cock the hammer and remove the disassembly pin. Apply a few drops of oil along the hammer spring. Pull the trigger and ease the hammer down. Slip the rubber grip over the grip frame until the big hole in the grip aligns with the hole in the grip frame. Slide the grip panel locator into position with an equal amount of pin extending from both sides. Lay the disassembly pin in the slot at the bottom of the left side. Snap the left grip insert into position. Snap the right grip insert into position. Insert the grip screw from the right side and tighten it with a screwdriver. Dry fire the gun several times to make sure everything is installed and working properly.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

[bgreenea3]

thanks Bullseye, I'll give her another shot, and if it doesn't work out i'll try to post some photos of what mess i've got going on....

[bgreenea3]

Well I took it all apart and re-fit everthing about 4 more times and no luck ... So I then noticed on the exploded diagram / parts list / invoice from Ruger that the cylinder latch Spring and the pawl spring were the same part # and that would make me believe that they should be the Same length.... so apart once again (I am getting VERY good a this) Got out the old calipers and measured the old cylinder latch spring and the new from ruger in the mail monday spring. (both are the same part #)

old cylinder latch spring = .425
new pawl spring = .300

I think I might be on to something.... and calling ruger for a new new spring tomorrow....

thanks for the help Bullseye it got me on the right track... I hope!

[Bullseye]

I hope it goes well. If anything you've gotten very good at disassembling your GP's trigger group.

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

I hope it goes well. If anything you've gotten very good at disassembling your GP's trigger group.

R,
Bullseye

The younger Greener has done it a lot but we do not really know if he is good at it or not.

[bgreenea3]

I've got it down to an art. I can have that thing down to its components in 45 seconds flat..and back together in 2 min...now getting it to work properly, thats a different story

[bearandoldman]

I've got it down to an art. I can have that thing down to its components in 45 seconds flat..and back together in 2 min...now getting it to work properly, thats a different story

When you can make it work properly then you will become an expert. Seen many a small engine that had problems because the guy put it back together the same as it was when he took it apart, too bad the guy ahead of him assembled it improperly. A good parts diagram goes a long way in helping. Remember a picture, at least a proper one, is worth a whole lot of words.

[Bullseye]

Sounds to me like you're doing fine. I shy away from revolver work for similar reasons. It's unfortunate that the original spring and plunger was lost but those things have a reputation for launching themselves.

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

Sounds to me like you're doing fine. I shy away from revolver work for similar reasons. It's unfortunate that the original spring and plunger was lost but those things have a reputation for launching themselves.

R,
Bullseye

Stuff does happen, especially with small spring loaded projectile type items. I know there are at least a couple of them stored away some place in my work room, been there for years and probably will be there for more years.

[bgreenea3]

the spring is so small that I just put the whole thing down walked upstairs and called ruger...it woulda been like looking for a needle in a haystack. (my work bench is right next to the laundry room/ storage room) or make that a needle in a pile of laundry

[greener]

You lose them only if you do not have a spare and the part is critical to the operation. When I've ordered such parts, I've ordered a spare. Now when the spring loaded whatzit decides to do a 3-wall bank shot it lands out in the open, under light and in an easily retrievable spot.

[Hakaman]

I can feel the frustration, because a similar situation happened to me a couple months ago with my Sig Mosquito. The spring and ball bearing for the safety lever launched in my basement and have never been found. Sig sent me replacements for free, but strangely, the ball bearing was a little larger diameter then the original was ??? So I reamed out the housing "slightly" to get it to fit and work. In the entire process, I think I invented several new cuss words. Although it wasn't funny then, thinking back, I get a chuckle out of the situation.
I think what works for me is this : If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Haka

[greener]

I think what works for me is this : If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Haka

You are probably right, but half the fun is fixing stuff that ain't broke.

[Hakaman]

You are probably right, but half the fun is fixing stuff that ain't broke.

What makes this statement funny is that it is most of the time true.

haka