Suppressed MKIII with GT Mods: Update

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johnnywitt
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Suppressed MKIII with GT Mods: Update

Post by johnnywitt » Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:56 pm

Well, I put in the factory tigger that Bullseye gave me with the Pretravel and Overtravel adj. screws and put it in. Didn't get the locktight right and the overtravel screw came loose after about 500-1000 rds., so I had to re-do it.
Then when I got that all hunky dory I started having progressively lighter and light firing pin strikes with associated FTF's. I read the other threads dealing with this issues and turns out it was a multi part problem. First, I had some lead buildup on the breech face where it meets the receiver. I used some lead solvent (Bore Tech Rimfire Blend) and a small allen wrench with a patch and got the lead out. Better ignition, but not perfect. I discovered the chamber had the lead ring and wasn't allowing the bullete to seat 100%. So, I cleaned the chamber with a .243/6mm brush. This helps tremendously.
My still unresolved problem is the Clark Hammer Bushing is not quite right and is causing the Factory MK III Hammer rivet/pin to drag as the hammer goes forward, which is slowing the hammer down so I'm still getting very occasional FTF. Some ammo due to case hardness being harder than other- all that military surplus .22LR :lol:.
Do you guys think that the rivet and bushing will wear in? Why didn't I have this problem before. I shoot my pistol probably at least 500-1000K a week and sometimes a whole lot more.
I've learned with suppressors that your gun gets way dirtier and far more leaded than an unsuppressed pistol. I can't imagine anybody that plans on doing some real shooting getting a sealed .22 can (especially with the "Gemtax" and how the can't just charge you materials cost and transfer your serial # to a new can when your old one fills up with lead solder and carbon. Sorry for the long post.

johnnywitt
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Post by johnnywitt » Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:47 pm

Fixed. :D

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Bullseye
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Post by Bullseye » Sat Oct 11, 2008 11:58 pm

What was the cure to your problem? Did you file and polish down the rivet head?

{EDIT} I see that you have the answer here http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =8500#8500

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KAZ
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Post by KAZ » Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:53 am

Definitely need to get the word out that one needs to choose carefully because once you pay the TAX and plunk down the $$$ for the can you are stuck with it. So, you are correct that new can owners should choose one that comes apart for owner cleaning,one piece baffle,and lifetime warranty. Regards

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