I have the metal frame Mark III. You bring up a good point about the disconnector travel, and wondering whether the disconnector tab was shortened at the factory. Indeed the disconnector travel is limited and a shortened tab would account for what I'm seeing.
After returning to the original sear and original trigger, I still notice that there doesn't seem to be any overtravel (but lots of pretravel). The trigger must be pulled all the way back in order for the hammer to be released, and as you said the top of the trigger pivots against the forward trigger well wall which prevents further motion. I regret not having another Mark III to measure the forward distance of travel of the disconnector lever, and also to compare disconnector levers. As I stated earlier, mine only travels a hair-width less than 3/64ths of an inch of forward and backward motion. This isn't much distance at all. That same distance of travel is consistent between the VQ and original triggers though.
I'll contact VQ tomorrow and see what they have to recommend.
Thanks for your help.
Multiple Mark III Upgrade questions and Problems
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Conclusion
Here is an update to the saga that took place a week and a half ago.
Following my last posting, I sent an email to Nic and Scott at Volquartsen describing the problems that I was having and I sent along the link to this forum entry, in order for the whole history to be presented. I followed up with a phone call to Nic. After considering the situation, he thought that the problem could possibly be the trigger in the case that I had an older version which did not provide as much draw on the disconnector lever to engage the sear as the newer version. He also thought to send along a disconnector lever. Both a new trigger and disconnector lever was graciously and quickly sent out. Four days later I opened up the package and began to plot out my strategy.
The new trigger was exactly as the one I had, so I had the latest version all along. I left this in the original package to send back to Nic. The VQ sear was already in place, so I installed the VQ disconnector lever. All the frame parts were now assembled, and I did some testing prior to the installation of the receiver. Manually applying forward pressure to the hammer with my finger, the sear barely disengaged the hammer and a few times only after applying more pressure to the hammer. After trying this multiple times, I was a little discouraged that there wasn't more space between the sear and the hammer for the sear was still catching a bit.
I then thought to take the plunge and install the receiver. After much consternation, the pistol was completely assembled and did some dry firing. Voile! Consistent disengagment of sear! There was very little post travel of the trigger (no post travel screw set yet), which I attribute to the sear and hammer being so close to each other. The hammer falls at what feels to be the end of the trigger pull (not scientifically determined). I thought that the disconnector lever tab could be a couple thousands longer in order to provide full clearance for the sear and hammer. But considering the consistent disengagement, there is no point in the disconnector lever tab being longer (forward edge). The sear would drop the hammer at the same point anyway and any lengthening would simply increase the trigger's post travel.
I adjusted the pre-travel trigger screw, and did set the post-travel screw. I have about 1/16 inch pre-travel, and what feels to be zero post travel. The trigger pull is very crisp, with no apparent creep. Now off to the range. After about 200 rounds with no trigger problems, I consider this case closed. I applied locktite to the trigger screws to keep the pre and post travel settings in place.
During the 200 firings though I did experience two stove pipes. It may be attributable to the lack of a magazine disconnector, since I removed it and replaced it with a Clark Mark II bushing. I ordered a VQ extractor in order to insure good operation of the extractor in the future.
Overall, I'm highly pleased with the trigger pull, the high quality parts from Volquartsen, Nic at Volquartsen, and especially to Bullseye for his patience and knowledge in this forum. Thank you very much.
Following my last posting, I sent an email to Nic and Scott at Volquartsen describing the problems that I was having and I sent along the link to this forum entry, in order for the whole history to be presented. I followed up with a phone call to Nic. After considering the situation, he thought that the problem could possibly be the trigger in the case that I had an older version which did not provide as much draw on the disconnector lever to engage the sear as the newer version. He also thought to send along a disconnector lever. Both a new trigger and disconnector lever was graciously and quickly sent out. Four days later I opened up the package and began to plot out my strategy.
The new trigger was exactly as the one I had, so I had the latest version all along. I left this in the original package to send back to Nic. The VQ sear was already in place, so I installed the VQ disconnector lever. All the frame parts were now assembled, and I did some testing prior to the installation of the receiver. Manually applying forward pressure to the hammer with my finger, the sear barely disengaged the hammer and a few times only after applying more pressure to the hammer. After trying this multiple times, I was a little discouraged that there wasn't more space between the sear and the hammer for the sear was still catching a bit.
I then thought to take the plunge and install the receiver. After much consternation, the pistol was completely assembled and did some dry firing. Voile! Consistent disengagment of sear! There was very little post travel of the trigger (no post travel screw set yet), which I attribute to the sear and hammer being so close to each other. The hammer falls at what feels to be the end of the trigger pull (not scientifically determined). I thought that the disconnector lever tab could be a couple thousands longer in order to provide full clearance for the sear and hammer. But considering the consistent disengagement, there is no point in the disconnector lever tab being longer (forward edge). The sear would drop the hammer at the same point anyway and any lengthening would simply increase the trigger's post travel.
I adjusted the pre-travel trigger screw, and did set the post-travel screw. I have about 1/16 inch pre-travel, and what feels to be zero post travel. The trigger pull is very crisp, with no apparent creep. Now off to the range. After about 200 rounds with no trigger problems, I consider this case closed. I applied locktite to the trigger screws to keep the pre and post travel settings in place.
During the 200 firings though I did experience two stove pipes. It may be attributable to the lack of a magazine disconnector, since I removed it and replaced it with a Clark Mark II bushing. I ordered a VQ extractor in order to insure good operation of the extractor in the future.
Overall, I'm highly pleased with the trigger pull, the high quality parts from Volquartsen, Nic at Volquartsen, and especially to Bullseye for his patience and knowledge in this forum. Thank you very much.
Once you get that VQ extractor that ejection problem should be resolved. The VQ extractor hook is far superior to the OEM one. If your spent case sags during ejection, it will strike the lips of the magazine before the ejector pin and this causes a double-feed stoppage. In this situation, the new round tries to enter the chamber before the old case has departed the breech area. Usually the spent case is wedged above the new round that is crushed with it's nose inside the chamber. They typically look like this:
Or, sometimes the case completely turns around and is wedged up under the recoil guide rod.
In almost every case I've had with these, the VQ extractor corrects the problem. I have installation procedures on my detailed stripping web help page - http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm#extractor
I knew Nic and the folks at VQ would satisfy your concerns. They are top notch in my book.
R,
Bullseye
Or, sometimes the case completely turns around and is wedged up under the recoil guide rod.
In almost every case I've had with these, the VQ extractor corrects the problem. I have installation procedures on my detailed stripping web help page - http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm#extractor
I knew Nic and the folks at VQ would satisfy your concerns. They are top notch in my book.
R,
Bullseye
