Mk I detailed stripping/reassembly procedures, Where to find

kensnra · Post by **kensnra** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:26 pm

Not long ago I got my first Ruger Mark I. I ordered a new VQ adjustable trigger and a set of Millet adj. sights. The sights will be here Monday & I have the old sights off so am ready to go for that. My problem is when installing the new trigger I decided to take it all apart for a good soak in ED's Red. I thought I paid attention when I took it all apart

, well now I'm not positive when putting it back together. So would like to know where I could find help. Also I've been thinking about drilling and tapping for a weaver base in case I would decide to try a red dot sight. Any help - tips anybody could provide would be very much appreciated.

Ken

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:03 pm

Ken,

First, Welcome to Guntalk-Online!

I need to know how far you've disassembled your pistol. Did you strip it all the way down or are you just having problems with the trigger parts?

Have you looked at the detailed stripping pages for the Mark III that I've put up? Most of the Mark I pistol's internal parts are the same as a Mark II/III. I can make a set of instructions for a Mark I pistol if you really need it.

R,
Bullseye

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:13 pm

kensnra: welcome to the forum.
keep any spare parts... you'll probably figger out where they belong
before too long...

just my 0.22-cents worth on the drill-tap...
with no info on your "abilities", I'd suggest you slowly keep your
eyes open for a GunSmith that has one of the 'jigs' to hold a
firearm for the Drill/Tap alignment... AND KNOWS HOW TO USE IT!!
I've drilled-tapped all kinds of plain old metal parts...
but the slightest mis-alignment on your barrel will make for an
expensive and non-functional alignment...

Being a MK1... 1950s thru the 70s... about what year was it made ?
There could be more value in leaving it 'original'...
and wait to buy one of Greener's MKs from his widow...
-- toy

kensnra · Post by **kensnra** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:57 pm

First I want to say thank you. This is a great site & a person can learn much. Your pictures and information are the best. I hate to admit this but I looked at the posting you recommend with one small exception after the first three pictures I come to the flag and thought that was all so I went back and started looking at other post's.

I have now scrolled down through it & am going to take my laptop to the bench and go through the whole thing as I did completely strip it. I really think I have it put together correctly, but am not sure as there is some side play in the hammer and not sure that hammer has a spring orientated like it should as nothing happens when I pull the trigger, have my thumb on the hammer so I can feel anything.

I'm considering drilling and tapping for a red dot with weaver base, will follow suggestion & have it done (does anyone know of a smith in the Kansas City area that does this work? My MKI was made in 1976 but has a rust spot on the barrel and the is in fair to good condition when I got it used. I figured it's only value is as a shooter? Am I wrong??

Is it much of a job to add the feature to the frame to hold open after the last shot like is on a MK II? I really don't want to modify the mags. Truth be known I should probably have looked until I found a MKII

I will close for now as I don't want to wear out my welcome with to many questions.

Again thank you very much.

Ken

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:00 pm

There are some differences between that pistol and your A-100 framed Mark I. The internal parts mostly are the same. The Mark III has a magazine disconnect safety and that creates a few extras around the hammer. Your's just has a round bushing instead of the hooked one.

Can't release the hammer? If you have the mainspring installed in your grip/frame then it sounds like either the sear spring isn't seated properly behind the frame crosspin, or your trigger return plunger isn't lifting the disconnector.

Drilling and tapping the receiver is best left to someone with the right equipment. Nothing like having your scope tilted to one side, which is what can happen without a scope mounting jig and a machinist's precision spirit level.

Adding in a bolt stop onto your A-100 frame is not terribly difficult but requires a milling machine to do it right. You will also have to mill in a slot to the underside of the receiver. This is not a job for a Dremel Tool.

Questions are always welcome. I can offer advice if you're still having installation problems. Let me know, I don't mind questions at all.

R,
Bullseye

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 12:48 pm

kensnra wrote:Am I wrong??

with your added info/description...
yes, most likely a fun, handy and good 'shooter'.

personally... I'd leave it alone...
I don't have "connections" in 'KC', but I'm certain they exist...
no need to rush-it... drop in a shop and ask their
"fee per hole" to drill/tap a Ruger-MK... likely $20/hole.
ask what 'jig' they have... and do they use a "new" drill/tap
for each job/hole...

There are SO MANY MKs that the prices will not
likely become excessive... and the later MK2s
in the 90s were factory drill/tapped with a rail...
I'd just get a second MK when you "find it"...
-- toy

MidWay: (this is the cheap-way, not including the DrillPress or "vice" )
6x48 Drill/Tap
Tru-Tapper by B-Square
actually... you need what is called a 'Bottom Tap' and flat-ended drill...
but this was a quick-find... like MidWay#262861 or Brownells# 748-002-648

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Aug 03, 2008 2:08 pm

You could always go with a no-gunsmithing Weaver sight mount like a Weigand. For $40 you don't have to drill and tap the receiver. The rear sight gets removed and the mount secures into the dovetail slot.

R,
Bullseye

kensnra · Post by **kensnra** » Mon Aug 04, 2008 10:30 pm

I wanted to let Bullseye & toyfj40 how I finally ended up with my little project.
Remove & replaced original fixed sights with Millett adjustable sights, took me a while but got it done and it looks like a professional did it. Tomorrow I will sight it in. I have had the inside of the frame apart and back together so many time's I think I now know how the MK I works. The problem that really caused me all the trouble was the new VQ trigger wouldn't let the sear disengage the hammer. I switched trigger springs and plungers didn't help so finally a removed the VQ trigger, spring & plunger and went back with the original, wala, everything worked as it should. After spending so much time on this and my shop isn't air conditioned I decided that is good enough for now. Next time I take it down for cleaning I will figure out what is different with the new trigger as ended up that is the only thing I changed, so has to be the problem. I'm more sure of myself now after spending lots of time with the pictures and information on this web site. I am not a machinist or gunsmith but have worked on a lot of mechanical things as well as locks for a number of years so everything you guys have done to help me as helped me with my education. Eyes and fingers don't like they used to but I just stay with it. Be 66 in September.

Once again thanks a lot and this is a GREAT website and you have been a lot of help.

Ken

P.S. Probably not going to do more with this pistol and will be watching for a later MK II.

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:04 pm

Ken,

Does it seem that your VQ trigger cannot rotate far enough forward to allow the disconnector to engage the sear? If that's the case then removing some of the front surface from the trigger will provide more forward travel for the trigger.

R,
Bullseye

kensnra · Post by **kensnra** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 8:18 am

Bullseye, I think that is probably what it is, but didn't check yesterday as I had enough Mark I, for the time being. I'm sure it is probably just as you ask. It will probably be the last of the week before I get to look at it. I won't wait to long as will wonder until it's done and working right. Will let you know what I find.

Thanks, Ken

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:08 pm

This is not the first time this has come up with a VQ target trigger. While rare, a VQ trigger may need some fitting to work properly in a particular pistol. These are supposed to be drop-in components but every pistol has its own individual tolerances and may require some minor fitting when new parts are added.

If it turns out that the trigger is not able to rotate far enough forward to allow the disconnector to reset on the sear then this picture shows a remedy.

You can remove some material off of the lower front edge of the trigger with a file to allow it to rotate farther forward in the frame. Take care if you do this that you test your trigger for operation in sustained fire operation. This means, squeezing the trigger and holding in rearward. Without releasing the trigger, cycle the bolt, then release the trigger fully and squeeze it again. The hammer should drop on the successive trigger squeezes. Sometimes the disconnector will reset on single operation but when its near the limit will not do so in sustained operation. If it doesn't operate in sustained mode, this just means that a little more material must be removed from the front edge of the trigger.

You may also find that once this trigger is fitted that you won't need to use the pretravel screw, as the trigger is already at its forward most limit.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

kensnra · Post by **kensnra** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:12 pm

Thanks, I'll give that a try and the picture will help as well.

Ken