Also, I have not been able to borrow 1911 grips from anybody...I can but have not wanted someone to have to remove them for me although a few club members offered.
All I need really is a life-size template to use, just to compare to where I will drill the holes for the bushings for the nationals. My inclination is to just drill them where I want for the nationals, but may make minor compromises if it will mean all 1911 grips will fit right. I want to see how far apart they are in "agreement".
Is there somewhere online I can find a slab outline with holes, or could somebody lay theirs on a scanner for me, and put a ruler or coin there for scale? Thanks.
1911 screw studs--22/45 herret nationals
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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melchloboo
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:31 am
more confusion...
The Harret Nationals grips seem in many ways to have been made to perfectly accommodate the ruger 22/45 slide stop, safety, and even leave clearance for the hammer pin. But when lined up that way, the holes are about 1/4 to 5/8" lower than where they would be if I used a regular slab grip. This means my holes won't be where the guy on the ar15 site put his...
Are there 2 heights of 1911 grips out there? Or does the ruger have a shorter butt than a real 1911? If the butt is shorter that would explain why it would seem that if I put a slab grip on the holes where I want the harrett to go, the bottom of the slab grip would extend off the butt of the gun...
Really going to have to work the grips to accommodate the safety and slide release if I mount them high.
The Harret Nationals grips seem in many ways to have been made to perfectly accommodate the ruger 22/45 slide stop, safety, and even leave clearance for the hammer pin. But when lined up that way, the holes are about 1/4 to 5/8" lower than where they would be if I used a regular slab grip. This means my holes won't be where the guy on the ar15 site put his...
Are there 2 heights of 1911 grips out there? Or does the ruger have a shorter butt than a real 1911? If the butt is shorter that would explain why it would seem that if I put a slab grip on the holes where I want the harrett to go, the bottom of the slab grip would extend off the butt of the gun...
Really going to have to work the grips to accommodate the safety and slide release if I mount them high.
I just saw this over at RFC and thought I'd post a link. It may give some of you DIYers some more ideas. 1911 grips for the Ruger 22/45 (grip mod).
http://www.spokanister.net/Guns_22-45_Grip_Mod.html
R,
Bullseye
http://www.spokanister.net/Guns_22-45_Grip_Mod.html
R,
Bullseye
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melchloboo
- Regular contributor
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:31 am
I would agree with him that getting the bushings in correctly is the hardest part.
I think it is almost better if the bushing has some wiggle before the epoxy is used, because that is how it worked out for me. My holes were not perfectly placed, so while the epoxy was still setting I put the grips on and saw that one of the bushings had to tilt ever so slightly for the grip to snap on. I left it at that angle for the epoxy to harden. If the bushing had actually screwed in tight with no play, I probably would have had to work the grip a little to get it to fit on after the epoxy hardened. That JB weld seems to be solid stuff, I don't think its crucial that the bushings get a tight screw-grip into the frame before the epoxy is used.
I thought about drilling through the frame, but I decided that after the work I had done grinding and sanding and filing, that the frame might be asymmetric and drilling through might not work.
In any case, my scores have improved dramatically since I've been using the new grips.
I think it is almost better if the bushing has some wiggle before the epoxy is used, because that is how it worked out for me. My holes were not perfectly placed, so while the epoxy was still setting I put the grips on and saw that one of the bushings had to tilt ever so slightly for the grip to snap on. I left it at that angle for the epoxy to harden. If the bushing had actually screwed in tight with no play, I probably would have had to work the grip a little to get it to fit on after the epoxy hardened. That JB weld seems to be solid stuff, I don't think its crucial that the bushings get a tight screw-grip into the frame before the epoxy is used.
I thought about drilling through the frame, but I decided that after the work I had done grinding and sanding and filing, that the frame might be asymmetric and drilling through might not work.
In any case, my scores have improved dramatically since I've been using the new grips.
