2245 mag safety disconnect mod issue

Sportdog7 · Post by **Sportdog7** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 5:16 am

Well I've always been able to field strip & clean my pistols with no problem but the Ruger 2245...Well that's another story. I ordered a bushing to do the mag safety disconnect, no problem removing the old bushing & putting in the new one. Before reassembly I tried the mag release and the mag flies out when released. But I can't get the mainspring housing assembly to close, I used a pin punch and carefully worked the bolt back to test the trigger the trigger is not working either it feels just like it does when you try to pull it after a dry fire. I was very careful and don't believe I have lost any parts during the tear down to replace the bushing. Any ideas on what my problem is, or should I just bring it to a gunsmith?

Biggjimm · Post by **Biggjimm** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:05 am

Sounds like you don't have the hammer strut & the mainspring cup lined up. I have to manually push my hammer all the way forward with a tool of some sort before closing the mainspring housing. That's why the tutorials say point it towards the ground & pull the trigger & shake it or lightly tap the barrel on a block of wood or something to place the hammer in the fired position so you can close the mainspring housing. bullseye has put together some great how to's on these guns. Here is the link to the tear down of your ruger. Just go thru it a couple times & when you put it together follow the instructions to the letter & you should be fine. Good luck.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=178

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:05 am

This almost sounds as if there's two problems. One issue is the mainspring housing and the other is the trigger not connecting. When you're having trouble with the mainspring housing, how is it failing to close? Is it the latch, or is the housing backing out of the receiver as you close the latch? Next, what do you feel when the trigger is not connecting. It might be best to pull the pistol apart and check the top of the trigger for the plunger. If that is not present in the trigger the disconnector will not operate the sear and release the hammer.

R,
Bullseye

Sportdog7 · Post by **Sportdog7** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:11 pm

Yes the latch will not close its close to closing but it wont close, and I don't want to force it. The trigger feels like it would if you didn't have a mag in the gun and pulled the trigger is the best way I can describe it.

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:03 pm

Have you taken it back apart yet and ensured everything is in its proper place?

R,
Bullseye

Sportdog7 · Post by **Sportdog7** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:30 pm

Well rather than lose my temper I have a friend who's a gunsmith and he said to drop it off, so I'll let him work on it. I will say there wont be a next time, from this point on I'll use a bore snake to clean the barrel and if there is ever a function issue or something breaks I'll take it to a gunsmith. I have a SR-40 and a LCP neither gun is a problem to field strip & clean, I've done it many times! However this 2245 MKIII is a real P.I.A. I'll let someone else deal with it.

Biggjimm · Post by **Biggjimm** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:13 pm

Actually once you understand how the mark pistols work, & why the mainspring housing won't close, they get a lot easier to put back together. Once you understand it & you remember to move the hammer from the cocked position to the fired position (all the way forward) & then point the muzzle towards the ceiling so the hammer strut will be in the correct position to engage the cup on the mainspring when closing the latch, they are really a breeze to field strip. But if you don't get that hammer strut lined up with the mainspring cup they will lock up tighter than a new boot and scare the bejesus out of a fellow because he just "trashed" his new gun. I'm sure if you take a break from it & go back later & follow Bullseyes instructions you will see & understand how it all works & you can get it going yourself. If you choose to go the 'smith route, have him explain it to you & it will all make sense. Good luck.

Sportdog7 · Post by **Sportdog7** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:21 pm

Well I dropped it of and guess what? there were 3 Ruger 2245 MKIII that were there for the same issues. I will have him show me but it was a pain removing the barrel, and it was a pain putting it back on, never had to deal with this type of thing before. Just glad it doesn't need cleaning as much as some pistols.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:33 am

Sorry to hear we weren't able to talk you through the troubleshooting and reassembly process but glad to hear that you've got the fix on the way. There are some peculiarities with disassembly and reassembly but they are not insurmountable steps. The key to reassembly is mostly positioning the hammer "fully" forward, and typically this requires a long tool to accomplish. For some reason in the Mark III, the hammer can look fully upright but not be in the forward-most position and this is generally the cause of many failure to close issues for the mainspring housing. Unfortunately your pistol also had a trigger not engaging issue and closing up the mainspring housing without further inspecting that cause would have only increased the problem because the hammer would not be able to normally release from the cocked position to disassemble the pistol again for re-inspection. The Ruger 22 Auto pistols do have a unique manner of stripping and reassembly but once you practice it a few times the procedure gets much easier.

R,
Bullseye

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 8:41 am

Sportdog7, Welcome to GTO

Like Bullseye said it sound like you may have had 2 issues. The main spring should seat to the point that it needs only to push down another ~1/8" before the latch will close.

If the plunger and/or plunger spring is missing the disconnect will not reset. Make the trigger act like a mag is not installed, before mod. Make sure the bushing is all the way in the hammer and right orientation. Some times these need a little tap to drive them all the way in.

I never clean the bore till the accuracy drops off. I only have to detail clean the gun every 2000-2500 rounds. And that's cleaning the bolt and area it rides in after every cleaning. Keep solvent away from the LCI or you will be cleaning a lot earlier. I use the LCI as a time to detail clean indicator. When ti gets sluggish or I start getting stove pipes, it's time to clean.

Take the gun next to the computer and follow the guide step by step. Once you've done it a few times you will not need the guide anymore.

These are great guns just a little different when it comes to taking it apart.

Sportdog7 · Post by **Sportdog7** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:23 pm

When I get the gun back from the gunsmith I should be able to field strip it and assemble it just as if it were a 2245 MKII right? I'm saying this because it will have the bushing replacement. Correct me if I'm wrong.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:48 am

When your remove the mag disc parts you turn your MKIII into to a MKII with a few extras (LCI).

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:03 am

Yes, with the Mark II bushing in your MkIII 22/45 you will not need to insert a magazine to drop the hammer. It will field strip just like any Mark II version.

R,
Bullseye