SP101 holster????

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:28 pm

I've been lookiing for a decent holster for my SP101, 3" revolver. There are so many choices....it's mind boggling. I'm happy with the Remora that I use for the S&W 36 tucked in my waist band for concealment purposes, but the SP101 doesn't hide nearly as well with that holster and it isn't nearly as comfortable either. The SP101 is my "camping" revolver and doesn't need to be concealed.

I'm thinking along the lines of a leather hip holster that doesn't "hang" out from my body like my "Uncle Mikes" does. Ideally, one that sits both upright and canted forward and tucks in tight. Preferably, without a thumb break.

What is your favorite holster? Why?

Suggestions?

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:53 am

Jack,

Short barrel revolvers in general seam to set out from your body. With revolvers you have the cylinder which in most cases where the belt loop will be which sets it away form your body and high but makes the grip easier to grab onto. From a holster making standpoint I look at the gun parts below the grip. Which on a revolver is the cylinder/trigger/barrel. That is not a lot of area to work with, particularly on a short barrel heavy gun. With a longer barrel it keeps the gun from rotating. You may have to go to a LGS that has a good holster selection. Since this is for out in the woods may look at a paddle holster out of Hydex. Most of these I have seen have adjustable cant and restraint so the gun is locked in. The down side is that they set away from your body.

My favorite holster .... Made by me....

If a holster is design to be a low carry, meaning the belt loop is at the very top (hammer) area it works better. The gun is positioned lower in the holster and covers most all of the gun. Now a lot of times due to gun weight it will try to rotate outwards (forward or back depending on balance) so heavy leather is preferred and a wide loop. These are not the easiest to make (for me) since you have to be far enough in the process to secure the loop, hoping it's in the right spot. The problem I run into is setting up the cant so the bottom part of the loop is in a area that does not impact the gun fit and harm the finish. I make most all of my holsters without restraints and feel the fit should hold the gun tight. But a lot of times I put a simple strap of leather across the trigger guard or behind the hammer. I'm working on one for my Kimber UCII OWB right now. I'm at the point that I hate the most, the belt loop and scant. I like the FBI cant, this gives the best balance and easy draw. But with a short barrel it leaves me little room for the reinforced top. That and it forces me to hand stitch due to restraints of the sewing foot.

I probably wasn't much help to you. But I think I gave you some ideas or areas to look at before putting your money down.

bgreenea3 · Post by **bgreenea3** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:02 am

Try a leather pancake type holster they are good at distributing the weight a.d keeping the gun in close. I have one by Gould and goodrich I like for my snubby smith

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:16 pm

Check out these holsters:

http://www.comp-tac.com/catalog.php

Comp-Tac does make holsters for the SP101. I only have experience with the CTAC, which I think is awesome, but I have also heard very good things about all their styles.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:05 pm

I'm leaning toward something like this. The problem I see with this example is the slots for the belt. It is weak near the ends of the slot and as it stretches with use the holster/gun sags outward. This particular one looks like it has that "sag" built -in. I've copied this from an eBay ad and Photo-shopped out the manufacturers stamped logo. I had one similar to this for my S&W 36 and the hammer stuck me in the side (no leather around the hammer area).

It seems most leather holsters of this type, are built like this one and that makes me leary of them. Am I crazy? Is this a problem or am I leary for nothing?

If I could find one like this that had some extra leather around the hammer area, to keep the hammer from gouging flesh, and had a a strip of leather clear across the back for a belt instead of the slots.......that seems like it would make an ideal holster.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:37 pm

Now here's an interesting holster that appears to meet my needs. But the price is OUCH!

http://www.simplyrugged.com/texas-pancake/

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:16 pm

Check out these guys: http://www.donhume.com/index.php?main_p ... x&cPath=65

They offer many different types of leather holsters at a decent price.

Jack, have you considered any of the Kydex or other plastic holsters?

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:20 pm

This may suite your needs. I have always liked their leather holsters.

http://www.usgalco.com/HolsterPG3.asp?P ... 6&GunID=75

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:08 am

Jack D wrote:Now here's an interesting holster that appears to meet my needs. But the price is OUCH!

http://www.simplyrugged.com/texas-pancake/

Simply Rugged seems to be the favorite on both Ruger forums. The ouchie price is often said to be worth it.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:36 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Georgezilla wrote: Jack, have you considered any of the Kydex or other plastic holsters?

I actually have one for my S&W 36....a Serpa. The paddle that came with it was horrible. I modified it with a home made leather belt slide that improved it, but since I bought the Remora, it is seldom used. I might do the same thing for the SP101...if they made a Serpa for the SP101. They don't. I like the positive click and hold of the Serpa and the trigger finger release. I've never seen or tried any of the others.

Baldy · Post by **Baldy** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:51 pm

I used a Don Hume with a Security-Six I had and it worked real well. Good luck on your search.

http://www.donhume.com/index.php?main_p ... ucts_id=53

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:04 pm

I finally found one that I think will work for me. Not perfect, but the price is right. And it has most features that I was lookinig for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1C-696-Vintage- ... 1c22a8bb57

Georgezilla · Post by **Georgezilla** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:56 pm

Jack, do you think that holster covers the trigger enough? From looking at the photo, it appears the trigger could be actuated without disturbing the firearms position in the holster at all.

I think a holster should completely cover the trigger/trigger guard.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:56 am

George has a good point since the holster will be outside, carried in the wilderness where a branch could gain access. But you could cover the opening more with a second piece of leather.

Jack D · Post by **Jack D** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:58 pm

That's a valid point. One worth thinking about. Possible solutions would be to sew or rivet a round piece of leather under the strap to cover....or completely replace the strap with a wider one. I could also add a hammer thong like this one uses. http://www.holsters4guns.com/holsters/p ... Ho510.html.

The nice thing about leather is that it is easily modified to suit.

I believe this holster was made prior to 1980 so was made to fit something other than the SP101. I'll see how well it fits my SP101 then determine what (if any) modification may be necessary or desireable. I have a laser grip and it may need trimming, too (to clear the laser).

This is the George Lawrence "Challenger" line. From my research, it seems they stopped making holsters in the 1980's.

http://www.vintagegunleather.com/shoppe ... cts_id=285

http://www.vintagegunleather.com/shoppe ... cts_id=151