Mark 1

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 3:17 pm

Wow Bullseye thanks much for your time and detail.
It trully is appreiciated...
Once I get this gun I will look it over and the stuff you all have been talking about will sink in better.

I guess it is O.K. to dry fire this gun due to it have a firing pin stop?
If the answer it yes I guess I'm learning something here....

If I might ask, (hope I'm not going in the wrong direction here-don't answer if I'm off base) what is your background Bullseye, to know so much about these guns?
Do you have the same back ground for other firearms?

John fox · Post by **John fox** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 3:18 pm

Hey Bullseye,
Are you going to sell any extended followers for the Mark 1 magazines?

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 3:35 pm

it's been a while (likely here from "B-E"), but a handy tool-tip for
the range-bag... is a 6-8" Nylon-Cable-tie...

(usually $1 per 100 at a HarborFreight store sale)
the "head" (left end, above) serves to catch the Ruger-MKx MainSpring
arm/A-7 to permit pulling it out... and avoid using a screw-driver, knife or
broken-finger-nail... one of the handier-free-tools in my bag...

currently going to SuperGlue some small-strips of Milk-Carton-Plastic
onto the jaws of a small pair of "Channel-Lock" style pliers to have a
non-marring set of jaws for holding onto stuff(tm)...

clean the "jaws" (I bought these two small/cheap pair just for this),
place a dolop/drop of SuperGlue onto each jaw, not enough to run,
but enough to fill-in the jaws...
Place the trimmed piece of Milk-Carton-Plastic onto the glue...
use a wad/roll of paper-towel between the plastic-pieces as you
clamp the jaws together to let the glue set... and the papertowel
will press the plastic up-against the glue/jaws...
Before the glue has a chance to set completely, remove the papertowel.
then let it set to cure the glue... trim the plastic to the jaws with
an Xacto-Knife or sharp pocket-knife...
These are not rugged or particularly durable, but can be re-glued often
and serve the purpose... actually, as I type this... I'll try HotGlue
next time... as it may be easier to work with than the liquid-SuperGlue.

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 3:45 pm

gabby wrote:Is it O.K. to dry fire this gun...

once you have Field-Stripped your MKx a half-dozen times
and are familiar with the Hammer&Strut positioning...
it is easy to remove the Bolt-Parts, including the firing pin/A13
(be careful on the orientation of the little spring&thingy A39 & A39-1
that are UNDER the firing-pin, for correct replacement)...
then removing the (FiringPin,spring&thingy) is easily done to have a
Dry-Fire-Session... then just replace them...
the firingpin-stop/A35-B can become bent with extensive DryFiring.

gabby wrote:what is your background Bullseye, to know so much about these guns?

take the time to photo-graph and write-up the detailed instructions
on every blessed-step of these pistols and parts...
and you'll be pretty well versed on them yourself.
I'll let BE toot his own horn...
but read-up on "Distinguished Shooters" at: odCMP.org

a good OnLine reference is BullsEyePistol.com
try the ref: "USAMU Pistol Guide" on the right-side...

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:35 pm

I guess it is O.K. to dry fire this gun due to it have a firing pin stop?
If the answer it yes I guess I'm learning something here....

It is alright to dry fire a Ruger 22 Auto in moderation. If you dry fire too much you can bend the firing pin stop pin and the breech face can be damaged. Here's a look at a firing pin stop that's had a little too much dry firing on it.

If you do dry fire frequently, then periodically inspect the pin stop for signs of stress before the chamber mouth gets damaged.

If you do accidentally damage the chamber mouth all is not lost a rimfire chamber iron can press the metal back into proper position again. Brownells sells them for around $20.

As for my experience, let's just say I've been around the block a time or two.

R,
Bullseye

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:41 pm

John fox wrote:Hey Bullseye,
Are you going to sell any extended followers for the Mark 1 magazines?

No plans to sell these, too small of a market. I have provided details on how to make them for yourself in the workshop forum. Here's a link DIY follower

R,
Bullseye

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:14 pm

Bullseye,
What is the thickness of the stock that you used?
Is it aprox. 3/16 thick?
The thickness of the piece that pushes up the bullets?

Post by **Bullseye** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:40 pm

I made the thickness 5/32", but 3/16 would probably work just as well.

R,
Bullseye

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 1:29 pm

Here is the Mark 1 I jsut bought as well as a Mark 3 Hunter.
My small rimfire collection and an attempt to put their photos on the site.
Might need help Bullseye...

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Sun Mar 25, 2007 1:35 pm

Well what do you know, it worked...pictures.
Maybe could use a little smaller image to fit screen though.
I have (with all the info coming from the forum) replaced the sear on the Hunter and replaced the grip with a Hogue. Still not happy with the Hi Vis sights though. I might switch out to the Competion Model ones from Ruger.
I'm going to try this tomorrow night, I removed the Hi Vis optic from the front sight on the Hunter and am going to try using the front sight as a peep. We'll see how that works.
Although I won't get a chance to shoot the Mark 1 until tomorrow night, after dry firing the Mark 1 I believe I will be putting a sear in it as well and possiably getting a Hogue grip for it.

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 4:25 pm

Shot both last night at the range.
I am locking in on how to shoot a pistol-at least a 22.
I was getting real comfortable with both the Mark 3 & 1.
I still want to do something with the Mark 3 sights but don't want to do too
much until I can lock in the best I can with my shooting. I'm getting there.

I'm happy with the performance of the Mark 1. Actually it's a tighter
pattern then my Mark 3 was when I first started shooting it but I think that
mainly is due to me getting better.

The new sear in the Mark 3 is NICE and I probably will put one in the Mark
1.
A friend that I shoot with has a Mark 3 Hunter also and he has done nothing
to it. You can really notice the difference with the new sear.

I was really locking in a pattern at ranges from close out to 50 feet. Had
put about 350 rounds through the Mark 3 and all of a sudden the pattern was
very erratic and some bullets were tumbling (key holing I think they call
it).
I pulled a bore snake through it but really didn't help.
Gun was warm.
Before I really got into this 22 cal shooting I bought a couple bricks of Remington
Thunderbolts. After reading and talking to others I know this is bad
ammo but wanting to use it up.
I have read about others having issues with this ammo but I really never
experienced a problem but never put that many rounds though it at one
session.
I plan to give it a good cleaning and hope that will take care of the
problem.
Thunderbolts will not be in my gun safe any longer....

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:44 pm

Thunderbolt ammo is typically know for causing heavy barrel leading. The accuracy problems you've described sound like this is the cause. You'll have to delead that barrel. Lewis Lead Remover from Brownells is a good way to clean out that fouling.

R,
Bullseye

gabby · Post by **gabby** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 8:13 pm

Is this something from shooting too fast and the barrel heating up or from the quality of the ammo or both?

I bought an "Ulitimate Cliploader" which is nice to use but it does speed up the reloading/shooting process.
I did read about using the isoprpyl alchol today for cooling down the barrel.
I will try cleaning the lead out once I get back on my feet from my knee surgery.

Does the Lewis Lead Remover product work better then the Hoppes #9?

Is this something I should use all the time when not using a jacketed bullet?

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:16 pm

A extremely hot barrel can increase the chance of leading but poorly sized, or undersized ammo, can have a higher leading factor. Blow-by from the powder burning will melt the bullet and impart lead into the barrel grooves. The more lead build up, the smaller the projectile diameter becomes as it travels down the barrel. Soon the bullet is not getting adequate spin from the barrel's rifling and the bullets tumble dramatically in flight.

A Lewis Lead remover is a special brass mesh screen that works with a cleaning rod to scrub out the barrel's grooves. Solvent alone will not be very effective in scrubbing the lead out of the barrel.

Better quality ammo will not be prone to leading. I've never had any problem with Federal or CCI brands leading. The Remington Thunderbolts do lead very badly. Copper clad 22 ammo is not jacketed it is a plating process that lubricates the bullets to reduce friction and resists leading.

R,
Bullseye

toyfj40 · Post by **toyfj40** » Thu Mar 29, 2007 11:30 pm

Bullseye wrote:Blow-by from the powder burning will melt the bullet and impart lead into the barrel grooves. The more lead build up, the smaller the projectile diameter becomes as it travels down the barrel. Soon the bullet is not getting adequate spin from the barrel's rifling and the bullets tumble dramatically in flight.

This blow-by-lead-melt-bore-deposit process is actually self-resolving...

some 1.5*years ago... I had a new S&W-22A pistol
and a new brick of Remindton-Thunderbolts...
I managed to shoot about three mags and was getting some
really weird Key-Holes in my paper... turns out, when I tried
to clean the bore, the .22-cleaning rod would NOT enter the bore !!
the bore was too-small... S&W earned a star in my book, they
paid for sending the pistol in... cleaned it up... and returned it...
I still have 9.5*boxes of Thunderbolts in the cabinet...
I have to move them over to get-at other ammo...
as my reminder of what ammo to avoid...

Currently, CCI/ Federal/ Aguila are my preferences...
I keep a box of Wolf and Eley in the bag,
but that's just to impress the "groupies" at the range...
IF there ever are any...