Carry permit at last

Post by **Bullseye** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:52 am

You can count me into that foolish category too. I don't know how we managed to not hit someone in the face/eye running around the woods like that but we did. Nobody wore any safety equipment. I remember once flanking a pinned opponent, only to be struck on top of the head by an errant BB from my own team as I circled around behind the heavily covered position. It left a nice welt on top of my head. I guess that's probably where the idea for airsoft and paintball guns came from - the foolish who ran around and popped each other with BB guns. As I look back on that experience it was fun but very stupid.

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:23 am

Remember them well, participated in a few of them myself. Must helve been late 40's just after WWII ended. Every kid had a Daisy Red Rider BB gun. Now the make laws to protect everybody from themselves. We survived, kids today would never make it ti high school if they had to live through those days.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 2:20 pm

Today if something breaks they just throw it away and buy another. Me I like to fix things. My dad use to do this, now he just saves it for me when I come down. I still have my Red Rider, and Sherdian Pump pellet gun. My brother still has his too. He also has a Crossman Pistol that says Patent Pending. We were taught not to point guns a anything you don't want to kill. So we did not shoot guns at each other. Fight we did, that what brothers do. You never see the cap guns any more, as well as pea shooters.

I'm in the process of doing a restro-mod to my 68 F100 PU. This was my dad's PU and I drove it when in high school. I have done the drive train work and may do some more mods. I'm in the middle of doing body work in prep for painting. I do my own paint work, I've seen to many cars where the paint just peals off after several years. Now I don't use the cheap paint either. Since I'm saving on labor I spend the big money for the good stuff. I would like to get it finished so I could show my dad what his old trucks look like. I'm keeping the original colors (white over blue) but updating them to metalics. My neighbor wants to see me put it back together. I have box after box of parts removed. There is not a single wire in the truck, new harness going in.

greener · Post by **greener** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:11 pm

Peeling paint can be caused by teeny traces of silicones (from car wax, etc).

Enjoyed all the stories about BB guns. My mom thought they were too dangerous. The Winchester Mod 69 .22 was ok, but no BB guns allowed.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:41 am

Peeling paint can be caused by teeny traces of silicones (from car wax, etc).

That is why it is important to scuff sand and wipe down all the old paint with solvent prior painting any primer or color coats.

Are you doing a single layer finish on your truck, or a color base with a clear coat?

R,
Bullseye

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:54 pm

I have been removing all of the finish by taking it all the way to the original primer. If bare metal, acid prep, epoxy primer is applied, followed with a high fill acryl primer (2 coats), then more block sanding. The primers are a different color, so I know when to stop, if I get to the epoxy primer. Once every thing is blocked, 1 more coat of acryl primer, wet sanded with 600, followed with base coat (color), then clear top coat (2 part urethane). The metalic white is actually a 3 coat system, base, flake then top coat. Last year the price for the paint (PPG) alone was going to be >$800. With the clear coat running $180/pt. Does not require a oven, tack free in 2 hrs. Just have to control the dust/dirt. The only one coat system I use is for the interior. Since these were painted in pieces than assembled, that's what I'm doing. It's the only way I can get paint in some areas.

The last one I painted was my Cherokee. The paint pealed on all of the top surfaces. I ended up spraying a total of 7 coats, due to the sealers used to cover the good paint after scuffing/sanding. I stripped all hardware off before painting. You could not tell it was repainted, due to color match and the fact I took the time to do all of the detail stuff to make it come out right. Then every one asked me if I color sanded and I said no. If you know how to read the spray pattern, you get a glass finish with out polishing/sanding. It's kind of like welding, you have to read the weld puddle. For paint you read the wet line.

Years back the flaking was due to the industry switching to low VOC. Now they have been switch to H2O base paints which so far can not take the Texas heat. Starts having a problem around 5 yr old. I'm old school I will not use these un-proven paints. I want the paint to last a life time, for me that's 30+ years...

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:00 am

Automotive paint isn't cheap. Sounds like you've done this a time or two. My experiences with auto painting go way back to where the most significant technical problem was getting the viscosity right. The only two color coat process back then was a lacquer base followed with several clear coats of lacquer finish and plenty of rubbing after.

R,
Bullseye

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:12 pm

Yes, I have done this a time or two. I was taught how to spray industrial coatings used on platforms. Some of these were really hard to spray and took a lot of pressure to atomize (75-90psi). I have even sprayed cold tar epoxy. If you want something really thick, it was hard to just pore it. Then I have sprayed epoxies which started setting up before we finished. You just don't go throw $300 paint guns away. I found that the carb vats used for cleaning carb would do wonders. Had a fellow worker failed to clean epoxy paint out of the gun and it set over the weekend. The carb vat cleaned it out but it took a week. It cleaned it so good we started using it as part of the cleaning process once a month or sooner if needed. I don't think you can buy this cleaner any more. If I find some I will buy a can and store it.

My newer guns are the HVLP guns, pot tank system. I prefer the pot tank systems due to the fact the gun is lighter and you can spray in any direction. When I first got it I needed to spray some clear lacquer on some wood cabinets. I was able to spray in my garage with out the fog..... My gun is rated at over 90% effeciency. Where a convential gun is only around 35%. My problem is my 30+ yr old compressor is not big enough for the hvlp guns. Mine consumes around 23cfm with a 8-10 fan. My convential guns consume around 12-14 cfm.

I don't like the rubbing and buffing, but like you said some of the earlier lacquers required it. I learned to spray the lac thinner as the final coat. If your timing was right it would remove all of the over spray.

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 3:51 pm

Now I know how my carry permit mention got four pages of replies.........

I have the idiotic space saver spare, so I leave it in the car. Nothing else really fits in the hole. I have those "green, yellow, red" pressure indicator caps on all five tires. So a quick glance checks my pressure........

And how did we end up on spray coatings? All I know is spray cans. Right now I'm waiting for half a flea-market 50 cal ammo can to dry. Krylon. Italian Olive. I can flip it over in another 10 minutes and finish spraying it..........

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:29 am

Sorry, sometimes these threads tend to wander a little. I'm not a thread Nazi, like on some of the other forums. I don't worry about it much because usually the conversation generally comes back around to the original topic at some point. Plus, we get to know a little more about everyone's hobbies, interests, and experiences, other than firearms.

On the other hand, I've used Krylon paints successfully on several projects. I even called one car my "Krylon Special." It was an old Mini-Cooper, long before anyone knew what they were, and I painted a British flag on the roof. Ugliest car I ever had. The electrical and hydraulic systems were a nightmare to keep working... but, I digress.

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:58 am

Bullseye wrote:Sorry, sometimes these threads tend to wander a little. It was an old Mini-Cooper, long before anyone knew what they were, and I painted a British flag on the roof. Ugliest car I ever had. The electrical and hydraulic systems were a nightmare to keep working... but, I digress.

R,
Bullseye

Aaaaaah, yes, vet rudimentary transportation, really more like a childs toy with a real motor in it. When it came to electric, Lucas and troubles were normally used together. Did you have the real Cooper, my uncle had a mini minor that I drove for a while , when my car was in the shop with engine problems. Tiny lilt wheels 600 or 750 cc 4 cylinder motor with 6 volt POSITIVE EARTH electrical system. Very agile little vehicle, if you were going into a corner a little fast just slam it down one fear, mat the pedal and hang on, it usually got you through safely.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 7:45 pm

It was a green 1967 Austin Mini Mark II with a 998cc engine. I only kept it for a year and a half, because that was all the patience I had for the constant upkeep it took to stay roadworthy. I sold it to a friend who collected A/H Bugeyes and MG Sprites. He had a passion for maintaining those British cars and was a great resource on keeping mine running properly.

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:32 pm

Bullseye wrote:It was a green 1967 Austin Mini Mark II with a 998cc engine. I only kept it for a year and a half, because that was all the patience I had for the constant upkeep it took to stay roadworthy. I sold it to a friend who collected A/H Bugeyes and MG Sprites. He had a passion for maintaining those British cars and was a great resource on keeping mine running properly.

R,
Bullseye

Those were all fun cars to drive, especially the Austin Healey Sprite, especially the Bugeyes, before they changed the body styling. You could have a ball driving them to the max at 55 or 60, the MG standards had to go 80 and The 3 liter Healeys had to go a 100. The Bugeyes were a fun driver, my brothers 1st wife had one, My brother raced SCCA in the early to late 60's with an MG and later a 2 liter Healey set up for racing only, only one of 2 in the US at that time.
Man we sure took this thread off on a tangent, good thing you run this forum.

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 10:01 am

Bullseye, was it jusr green or was it BRG? British Racing Geen a classic color, a little drab but classic. My uncle's was a Morris mini minor if I remember correctly that was a long time ago, like 47 years or so.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:54 pm

Yes this thread did drift abit. Sorry about that.
Lucas electrical systems were a nightmare. I had to work on them on Opal back in the early 70's. No one new how to trouble shoot them. And I had no problem working on electrical systems or carbs. At the dealer ship there was not flag time for working on elctrical systems so I was actual time. Sometimes good sometimes not.

My brother inlaw had a 71 Pantera that had an 600HP engine with the european transaxle in it. It would cruse at 200+mph. It was a blast to drive. I had it for about a year while I dialed in the carb for this 2200# chassie. Yes 600ho for 2200lb car.. With the traction lock axles and 14" wide rubber on the ground it would jump. Could break all legal speeds in 2nd gear (90mph), with 3 spares. I ended up rebuilding the fuse block and converted it to the std glass fuses, instead of those goofee bullet fuses. The cooling fans were a heave load and all most started a fire.

Any way.

Welcome to the CC world. You will find that most have to modify or change their wardrobe. For me it was an extra 1" in my pant size, since I carry IWB , Sig 229 in 9mm. I have mine loaded with the new Hornady Critical Defense. It's not near as powerful as some, but for up close and personal it will do the job. So if they ask why I emptied my mag, I can say I use a low power round and did what was necessary to stop the threat.

These are very soft shooting rounds. I'm going to shoot some into some water jugs to see how much penetration I get. If I recall it only went 10" in the FBI penetration test.