A New MkIII Owner's Strategy for a Trauma-Free Field Strip
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Well Bullseye, I took your advice and experimented with the allignment, but that pin won't go through that bottom hole from top or bottom; same with a 5/16" drill bit (the diameter of the holes). I'm convinced that bottom hole is just undersized enough to keep me from assembling the gun by hand. I'll bet it was also why I couldn't get the gun apart to begin with. Then, when I sent it back to the factory and they put it together again, it loosened up just enough to let me take it apart. But it's apparently still too tight to assemble by hand. As always, thanks so much for your time.
Dwight,
What does your bolt stop look like? Is it chafed from the lug being undersized? Will the bolt stop go up into the frame without the receiver on? Will the bolt stop fit through just the receiver without the bolt installed? Will it fit into the frame and receiver when the bolt is not installed?
R,
Bullseye
What does your bolt stop look like? Is it chafed from the lug being undersized? Will the bolt stop go up into the frame without the receiver on? Will the bolt stop fit through just the receiver without the bolt installed? Will it fit into the frame and receiver when the bolt is not installed?
R,
Bullseye

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
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- Location: Mid Michigan
Dwight. don't know where you are located but if you are near Mid Michigan I would be more than happy to meet you and try to help you. Remember when handling this gun, it is made of steel, aluminum and polymers and not fine CRYSTAL, don't be afraid to breakout. AFN if it breaks the send it to Ruger to fix it.Dwight45 wrote:Bullseye, those are all great questions. Yes, I should indeed deal with the alignment issue before I go running off to a smith. I came home real tired today and fell asleep on the sofa. I'll try all your suggestions tomorrow and get back with you. In the meantime, thank you.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


- bearandoldman
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- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Well Bullseye, your hunch was right. The problem was allignment. I've figured out how to assemble the pistol to the point of allignment where I can push the bolt-stop pin clear up through the grip frame and receiver so its little head pops through the top, like it should. But when I put the bolt in there, the back of the recoil spring prevents the pin from going all the way through. At this point I can muscle the pin down through from the top, but not from the bottom. I think it's because I'm able to put more force into pushing it from the top. What I think I need is a way to push the pin harder in an upward direction, but it's hard to get a good grip on the mainspring housing assembly. Is this making sense? And suggestions?
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
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George, I tried that, but there doesnt seem to be a place on the mainspring assembly that I can strike that will drive the pin in, and not out. But I'm almost there. I can push the assembly with my fingers until the top of the pin protrudes above the recoil spring, but it still won't protrude above the top hole in the receiver.
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm
George, I took your advice above and it did help me to drive the pin further up through the holes. But the dang thing won't go all the way, despite my vigorous pounding. Then when I try to pivot the assembly down, the pin comes down with it. Sheesh, I don't want to drive you guys nuts anymore. I'm going to see if my local gunshop can walk me through it. I thank everyone for your kind help.
This has to be the most user-unfriendly example of mechanical engineering I've ever seen. I hope Ruger reads these posts
This has to be the most user-unfriendly example of mechanical engineering I've ever seen. I hope Ruger reads these posts

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Dwight, don't be afraid to break it as if it does break Ruger will fix it. Now my pistols are all MrkII's and are 22/45's but all the parts other than the frame and the trigger parts are the same as your. This is the method I normally use. Insert the pin as far as it will go easily, holding the rear of the receiver between you thumb and forefinger, curl your forefinger under the pin and squeeze, this should seat things easily then while holding the muzzle up flep the housing back in and latch it.Dwight45 wrote:George, I took your advice above and it did help me to drive the pin further up through the holes. But the dang thing won't go all the way, despite my vigorous pounding. Then when I try to pivot the assembly down, the pin comes down with it. Sheesh, I don't want to drive you guys nuts anymore. I'm going to see if my local gunshop can walk me through it. I thank everyone for your kind help.
This has to be the most user-unfriendly example of mechanical engineering I've ever seen. I hope Ruger reads these posts
Good luck my friend, the problem you have is a rarity as most pistols work fine after you learn just how to do the job. GOOD LUCK my friend and the Bear send you a Wooooofie

You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
- Georgezilla
- Master contributor
- Posts: 702
- Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:35 pm
Dwight, I suspect your problem is from the positioning of the hammer.
Something is stopping the circled portion of the mainspring housing from going up into the frame:

I think one of two things is happening. The first is that you didn't put the hammer in the uncocked position, or you did and it fell back to the cocked position. Here is a picture of this condition without the barrel/bolt on:

The hammer is held in this position by the sear, unless trigger is pulled the hammer will not give way to any upward pressure being exerted on the mainspring. Because of this when you try to flip the mainspring into the frame your upward pressure is converted to downward pressure by a lever action, hence the pin sliding out of the frame instead of in it.
The second is the hammer was in the uncocked position, however the hammer strut was above the circled portion of the mainspring housing and stayed that way throughout you trying to insert the mainspring into the frame:

The result of this condition is basicly the same as the first. The only difference is the bolt of the pistol comes into play for this condition (Though even if the bolt wasn't there, this condition would still render the pistol inoperable due to the fact that the mainspring isn't providing tension to the hammer strut). With this condition when you exert pressure to pivot the mainspring housing into the pistol, the hammer strut is being pushed up at an angle, but there is no where for it to go -- again the mainspring housing pivots itself out of the frame.
Heres a pic of what this looks like without the barrel:

One way to tell if the above has happened is to check and see if you can see the strut before closing the main spring housing:

If the pistol's hammer is in the uncocked position and you can see the strut than you're in the clear.
If this is what was happening I recommend practicing getting the hammer in the right position with the barrel off the pistol. Heres a pick of what it should look like:

I hope this solves your problem. I did my best to describe what I think your issue is clearly. If I didn't I'm sure someone will clarify.
Something is stopping the circled portion of the mainspring housing from going up into the frame:

I think one of two things is happening. The first is that you didn't put the hammer in the uncocked position, or you did and it fell back to the cocked position. Here is a picture of this condition without the barrel/bolt on:

The hammer is held in this position by the sear, unless trigger is pulled the hammer will not give way to any upward pressure being exerted on the mainspring. Because of this when you try to flip the mainspring into the frame your upward pressure is converted to downward pressure by a lever action, hence the pin sliding out of the frame instead of in it.
The second is the hammer was in the uncocked position, however the hammer strut was above the circled portion of the mainspring housing and stayed that way throughout you trying to insert the mainspring into the frame:

The result of this condition is basicly the same as the first. The only difference is the bolt of the pistol comes into play for this condition (Though even if the bolt wasn't there, this condition would still render the pistol inoperable due to the fact that the mainspring isn't providing tension to the hammer strut). With this condition when you exert pressure to pivot the mainspring housing into the pistol, the hammer strut is being pushed up at an angle, but there is no where for it to go -- again the mainspring housing pivots itself out of the frame.
Heres a pic of what this looks like without the barrel:

One way to tell if the above has happened is to check and see if you can see the strut before closing the main spring housing:

If the pistol's hammer is in the uncocked position and you can see the strut than you're in the clear.
If this is what was happening I recommend practicing getting the hammer in the right position with the barrel off the pistol. Heres a pick of what it should look like:

I hope this solves your problem. I did my best to describe what I think your issue is clearly. If I didn't I'm sure someone will clarify.