A New MkIII Owner's Strategy for a Trauma-Free Field Strip
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Sounds like the mainspring housing was able to swing out of the frame but the bolt stop pin can not be drifted out of the receiver. I have seen a few of the newer ones with this same problem. Try tapping the barrel with a mallet a little rearwards from the muzzle end and try drifting the bolt stop again. If that doesn't work then try tapping the receiver forward and again try drifting out the bolt stop pin. Sometimes the receiver moves and pinches the bolt stop pin, binding it in place.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye

I understand your frustration.
Have you checked to ensure that the pivot pin hasn't slipped to one side? You can use a feeler gauge to slide in between the frame and housing to check for the pin. You shouldn't have the gauge stop unless it hits a pin that had wandered to one side.

If it has slipped then you have to tap the opposite side of the frame to get it to seat again and remove the bolt stop.

The pivot pin is staked and some need restaking.
I've seen some stubborn ones, especially some of the stainless models, but I had to be persistent and forceful. Having the pistol mounted in a well padded vise and some applied force has had successful results. In the mean time, you can swing the mainspring closed and still use the pistol.
R,
Bullseye
Have you checked to ensure that the pivot pin hasn't slipped to one side? You can use a feeler gauge to slide in between the frame and housing to check for the pin. You shouldn't have the gauge stop unless it hits a pin that had wandered to one side.

If it has slipped then you have to tap the opposite side of the frame to get it to seat again and remove the bolt stop.

The pivot pin is staked and some need restaking.
I've seen some stubborn ones, especially some of the stainless models, but I had to be persistent and forceful. Having the pistol mounted in a well padded vise and some applied force has had successful results. In the mean time, you can swing the mainspring closed and still use the pistol.
R,
Bullseye

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
One of the main things is to have the gun held tightly in a padded vise or other fixture or the force transmitted by the punch and hammer will not do much good as the gun will just bounce away while absorbing the impact. Kind of like a slow or a fast swing difference thing.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


That's quite a puzzler. I've seen a new pistol with the bolt stop pin difficult to remove because, I think, the bolt stop pin holes in the grip frame and receiver were slightly out of alignment. The problem went away when the holes were aligned.
If Dwight45 hadn't said he had pulled the trigger, I'd bet on the hammer being cocked.
If Dwight45 hadn't said he had pulled the trigger, I'd bet on the hammer being cocked.
Well it's been a couple months, and I finally got my Mk III target pistol back from the factory. Someone there was able to put it together again. And this time I was able to get it apart with a strike to the bolt-stop pin with a plastic mallet, and another strike to the barrel, as it should be. But now the gun doesn't want to reassemble. The bolt stop pin won't fit through the bottom hole. Whoever reassembled the gun at the factory must have had some special machine to assist him. And I think I found the problem.
There are two holes in back of the barrel through which the bolt-stop pin passes. They're nice and alligned, but the one on the bottom is a bit undersized. I know this because when I push the base of a 5/16" drill bit through the holes from the top of the gun, the bit passes through the top hole, but only about half way through the bottom one. That bottom hole appears to be tapered smaller toward the bottom. That's why I can't get the bolt-stop pin to pass through it. And the pin will fit through the top one. When the person at the factory drilled those holes, I'll bet he didn't drill completely through that bottom one, but just used the tapered end of the bit.
Anyway, I don't want to wait another couple of months for Ruger to disappoint me again. So my question is, would this be an easy job for my local gunsmith?
There are two holes in back of the barrel through which the bolt-stop pin passes. They're nice and alligned, but the one on the bottom is a bit undersized. I know this because when I push the base of a 5/16" drill bit through the holes from the top of the gun, the bit passes through the top hole, but only about half way through the bottom one. That bottom hole appears to be tapered smaller toward the bottom. That's why I can't get the bolt-stop pin to pass through it. And the pin will fit through the top one. When the person at the factory drilled those holes, I'll bet he didn't drill completely through that bottom one, but just used the tapered end of the bit.
Anyway, I don't want to wait another couple of months for Ruger to disappoint me again. So my question is, would this be an easy job for my local gunsmith?
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
You relly have to keeep your local gunsmith on your best friend list in case you need help. I have used the sme dealer/gunsmith/fiend for over 50 yearsDwight45 wrote:Good to hear BOM. That's what I'll do then.
We have known each other since we were both youngsters and also his son who helps him anbd all the other guys at his shop. Rarely ever have I bought a gun any other place as he will usually match or beat any one elses deal and if he is a few bucks higher, it is money well speent. He takes care of all my problems at a minimum or no cost.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Try placing the bolt stop pin downward through the top of the receiver to verify the alignment. When the bolt stop touches flush with the receiver then both parts are aligned properly. See it at this link http://www.guntalk-online.com/images/22 ... fsra02.jpg
You can make little adjustments like tapping the receiver on or off a little, twisting the receiver so the lug holes align better, and get the bolt stop pin to fit all the way through. Then you can install it up through the mainspring access hole in the back of the frame. Make sure that the hammer strut is out of the way so the housing can seat fully.
R,
Bullseye
You can make little adjustments like tapping the receiver on or off a little, twisting the receiver so the lug holes align better, and get the bolt stop pin to fit all the way through. Then you can install it up through the mainspring access hole in the back of the frame. Make sure that the hammer strut is out of the way so the housing can seat fully.
R,
Bullseye
