How do you adjust a pretravel screw
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
I'll print the adjustment procedure here to help.
The Allen (Pretravel) screw can be adjusted to take most of the slack out of the trigger before it engages the sear. This addition will shorten the travel of the Mark II/III's trigger pull considerably. You will need a little bit of slack (only a very little) to leave enough room for the pistol’s disconnector to reset on the sear during any sustained fire operations. The trigger will not operate repeatedly if this slight amount of slack is not there and the disconnector fails to reset.
To check and see if the trigger resets, ensure the pistol's chamber is empty, pull the trigger and hold it rearwards. Next, manually cycle the bolt while continuing to hold the trigger rearwards. Slowly release the trigger until you hear a "click" sound - the click is the disconnector resetting on the sear. Squeeze the trigger again and the hammer will fall.
Adjust the trigger's pretravel screw inward (CW) until the minimal amount of pretravel is present - just enough to allow for the trigger to reset on the sear using the reset test procedure above. The pretravel screw's movement is very sensitive - a fraction of a turn makes a huge difference. Careful not to set the screw's adjustment too close, or your Ruger will not operate consistently in sustained fire operation. Once you get the screw set in position wick in a little blue (medium strength #242) Locktite into the threads to keep the screw from backing out under the forces of recoil. Take care not to over do the application of Locktite and allow proper time for curing of the sealant.
If you find that you've set the pretravel screw too close and the hammer won't release, just back the screw out (CCW) a little and try readjusting it again.
![Image](https://www.guntalk-online.com/images/m3vc3tt.jpg)
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
The Allen (Pretravel) screw can be adjusted to take most of the slack out of the trigger before it engages the sear. This addition will shorten the travel of the Mark II/III's trigger pull considerably. You will need a little bit of slack (only a very little) to leave enough room for the pistol’s disconnector to reset on the sear during any sustained fire operations. The trigger will not operate repeatedly if this slight amount of slack is not there and the disconnector fails to reset.
To check and see if the trigger resets, ensure the pistol's chamber is empty, pull the trigger and hold it rearwards. Next, manually cycle the bolt while continuing to hold the trigger rearwards. Slowly release the trigger until you hear a "click" sound - the click is the disconnector resetting on the sear. Squeeze the trigger again and the hammer will fall.
Adjust the trigger's pretravel screw inward (CW) until the minimal amount of pretravel is present - just enough to allow for the trigger to reset on the sear using the reset test procedure above. The pretravel screw's movement is very sensitive - a fraction of a turn makes a huge difference. Careful not to set the screw's adjustment too close, or your Ruger will not operate consistently in sustained fire operation. Once you get the screw set in position wick in a little blue (medium strength #242) Locktite into the threads to keep the screw from backing out under the forces of recoil. Take care not to over do the application of Locktite and allow proper time for curing of the sealant.
If you find that you've set the pretravel screw too close and the hammer won't release, just back the screw out (CCW) a little and try readjusting it again.
![Image](https://www.guntalk-online.com/images/m3vc3tt.jpg)
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
![Image](http://guntalk-online.com/images/target.gif)
You know, if I went back and counted the number of people that have posts up either showing their aftermarket triggers or talking about ordering/installing one, it must be in the hundreds, or maybe even thousands. Take also into consideration the untold thousands of shooters that use aftermarket parts, but aren't the least bit interested in the internet, and that sure is a bunch of factory triggers floating around. Shoot I've got five of my own. I wonder if there is a market for them?
If you immediately know the candlelight is fire, then the meal was cooked long ago.
Is the major difference between the OEM and VQ trigger the set screws ? They look pretty much the same. Maybe you can modify the old OEM ones you have and sell them....jjfunk wrote:...... sure is a bunch of factory triggers floating around. Shoot I've got five of my own. I wonder if there is a market for them?
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
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J have modified all of my factory triggers and added a pre travel screw to them, of course you have to remove the trigger to adjust it but once adjusted there is no longer any reason the remove it for re adjustment..tom234 wrote:Is the major difference between the OEM and VQ trigger the set screws ? They look pretty much the same. Maybe you can modify the old OEM ones you have and sell them....jjfunk wrote:...... sure is a bunch of factory triggers floating around. Shoot I've got five of my own. I wonder if there is a market for them?
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.
![Image](https://lh6.ggpht.com/_PxHFTWA0o_c/SybvEoYpEeI/AAAAAAAABRU/FoM2ymO6CpI/s800/12-14-2009%20TAZ.jpg)
![Image](https://lh6.ggpht.com/_PxHFTWA0o_c/SybvEoYpEeI/AAAAAAAABRU/FoM2ymO6CpI/s800/12-14-2009%20TAZ.jpg)
Actually, three of the five factory triggers that I have are drilled and tapped. I didn't really mind doing the pre-travel adjustment even if it took a little longer, I really like working on these almost more than shooting them. I bought the drills and taps right after I found instructions on how to do it, and have a small baggy of scres still.(like 80 of them) I chose the aftermarket triggers (the VQ's) for two of my MK's just because they are the old stainless wide style, and feel better on my finger. The third one is a Clark trigger, and is just too darned cool not to have it installed. I even had to fine fit it to the trigger pivot pin it was so finely milled, and feels unbelievable in the gun. It is so much better than factory it is unreal, zero creep is actually attainable now. As far as selling them, I don't know. I seem to collect stuff and then never let it go. If someone is hard pressed for one though just let me know, and we can talk.
If you immediately know the candlelight is fire, then the meal was cooked long ago.