need a Ruger ?
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- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
Re: need a Ruger ?
Of course you do, everyone needs another gun
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
has
Has anyone here ever followed along on an auction? I haven't ever followed and would like to. I only found about 20 different handguns, and 15 or more of the long ones that I could offer a new home
What do I need to do besides sit here and do

What do I need to do besides sit here and do

Craig
By the standards of most
By the standards of most
Re: has
I've "bid/purchased" a couple via auction.neophyte wrote:What do I need to do
First thing I'd suggest is find an FFL local to you that
is willing to accept the firearm and log-the-transfer to you.
AFTER my purchase, I mentioned it to a pawnshop owner
who said that he would not want to do it as a "service",
but since he was acquainted with me, he'd be glad to
handle it... and cheaper, too...
then... "Know Your FireArms"...
each 'deal' will be a risk on your part, as you are
obligated to put up the $$ and wait... but it is likely
that troubles are few, else we would all have our
horror-stories to tell.
There are some great-deals "out there", but there are some
Great-Bargain-HUNTERS out there watching for the deal that
you want to wait just one more day to bid-on...
I've kept my "bidding" to a min-bid on my part and if I'm
Out-Bid... so be it... as I am willing to get a 'deal'...
but not get hung-up in a Must-Have something UnSeen...
good luck... was there some-other aspect you were asking ??
follow up
toyfj40: your information is helpful. As I tried to state I have no {none} experience with auctions, and at the moment, I'm trying to learn without going off the deep end.
Maybe following the auction will resolve some of my thinking.?
I know that at this time I'll not 'bid'; I have found a couple close to home that we are trying to get together on. Your experiences and knowledge; related
actions; educate those of us just beginning.
Thanks;
Maybe following the auction will resolve some of my thinking.?
I know that at this time I'll not 'bid'; I have found a couple close to home that we are trying to get together on. Your experiences and knowledge; related
actions; educate those of us just beginning.
Thanks;
Craig
By the standards of most
By the standards of most
follow up
toyfj40: your information is helpful. As I tried to state I have no {none} experience with auctions, and at the moment, I'm trying to learn without going off the deep end.
Maybe following the auction will resolve some of my thinking.?
I know that at this time I'll not 'bid'; I have found a couple close to home that we are trying to get together on. Your experiences and knowledge; related
actions; educate those of us just beginning.
Thanks;
Maybe following the auction will resolve some of my thinking.?
I know that at this time I'll not 'bid'; I have found a couple close to home that we are trying to get together on. Your experiences and knowledge; related
actions; educate those of us just beginning.
Thanks;
Craig
By the standards of most
By the standards of most
the 'mechanics' of the FireArm-Auction-Website vary a little with each.
They will require you to register with them, and likely use an
"ISP eMail" address... ie. NOT a Free-WebMail-address...
although, I use a WORK-eMail to satisfy that requirement,
THEN use a contact/communicate eMail that is a WebMail address
and it keeps the "gun eMails" off the work-eMail...
If you have ANY questions/concerns or just want more specific
info/photos... eMail the seller BEFORE YOU BID. once you bid
and if no-one Out-Bids you... then you just bought the firearm.
So, don't bid on something and find that it's not what you want,
need or can afford...
I get confused on the initial-bids sometimes...
as the seller will offer an item with "No Reserve"
which means he has no-minimum-price to sell...
-- a Reserve Price is basically the Starting-Bid-Price --
but it seems that the items always get bid-up to a
competitive price... at least the ones I have seen...
Maybe someone out there "just happens upon" the
clean/great deal and bids $5 and gets it...
I try to avoid the last-hour/minute Bidding-War...
it seems the "emotion" takes over and my efforts are
more to "try to out-bid by $2"... than Is this what I want??
So, I just decide what amount I'd be willing to pay -and-
be pleased with the deal... and enter that as my 'max bid'.
The auction-WebSite will post your bid-amount as a
minimum over the current bid... Not your full-max-bid...
For example: an item is currently bid at $100,
but I am willing to pay $150 for it. The software will show
me as the High-Bidder at $105... and that is my "bid" and
I will remain the High-Bidder UNTIL someone else comes along
and bids $125... the software will tell that bidder that THEY are
outbid and bump my bid up to $130 and I am still High-Bidder,
auto-matically... I am informed, but I do not have to re-bid...
THEN... when someone comes along and bids $160...
THEN I am Out-Bid and they are high-bidder... I then
have to re-log-in and decide to up my bid ... or not.
clear as mud, huh...
consider this... ( I've only used GunBroker.com, myself )
Free-register on a gun-auction site...
search for some newly offered firearm... say, Ruger MK3 Hunter SS
with NO bidders (yet) and initial bid of $200.
This is likely to sell for a bit more... but think about entering
a bid of $210... you become the HighBidder and may remain
so for a while... then in the last day or so... last few hours...
you'll most-likely get out-bid, even if only by $10-15...
BUT... if you ended up getting it... it's a helluva deal ...
but you'll see how the communication works...
YOU will be responsible for sending $$ + S/H/Ins to the seller
within a few days... consider getting a USPS-or-Bank MoneyOrder
or Walmart sells MoneyOrders for a buck or so... (cheaper than USPS)
and YOUR "FFL" signed-license...
The item should then be sent to your FFL in a timely manner and
hopefully... you will receive good eMail communications including
the UPS Tracking number... and you can follow it thru UPS...
Prepare to pay for the item, per your winning bid...
PLUS a S/H/Ins fee... $25?
PLUS pay YOUR FFL to handle it when it comes in... $25?
(the firearm MUST BE SHIPPED TO YOUR FFL, not YOU)
so... keep in mind that paying $50 premium on an auction item price
can creep up on a local GunShop/Used or New price for many items...
with a Risk of dealing over the 'net
-vs- the confidence of buying locally... but not all options are available.
I hope this helps... I'm sure there are other considerations that
others can clarify or add... Good Luck.
-- toy
They will require you to register with them, and likely use an
"ISP eMail" address... ie. NOT a Free-WebMail-address...
although, I use a WORK-eMail to satisfy that requirement,
THEN use a contact/communicate eMail that is a WebMail address
and it keeps the "gun eMails" off the work-eMail...
If you have ANY questions/concerns or just want more specific
info/photos... eMail the seller BEFORE YOU BID. once you bid
and if no-one Out-Bids you... then you just bought the firearm.
So, don't bid on something and find that it's not what you want,
need or can afford...
I get confused on the initial-bids sometimes...
as the seller will offer an item with "No Reserve"
which means he has no-minimum-price to sell...
-- a Reserve Price is basically the Starting-Bid-Price --
but it seems that the items always get bid-up to a
competitive price... at least the ones I have seen...
Maybe someone out there "just happens upon" the
clean/great deal and bids $5 and gets it...
I try to avoid the last-hour/minute Bidding-War...
it seems the "emotion" takes over and my efforts are
more to "try to out-bid by $2"... than Is this what I want??
So, I just decide what amount I'd be willing to pay -and-
be pleased with the deal... and enter that as my 'max bid'.
The auction-WebSite will post your bid-amount as a
minimum over the current bid... Not your full-max-bid...
For example: an item is currently bid at $100,
but I am willing to pay $150 for it. The software will show
me as the High-Bidder at $105... and that is my "bid" and
I will remain the High-Bidder UNTIL someone else comes along
and bids $125... the software will tell that bidder that THEY are
outbid and bump my bid up to $130 and I am still High-Bidder,
auto-matically... I am informed, but I do not have to re-bid...
THEN... when someone comes along and bids $160...
THEN I am Out-Bid and they are high-bidder... I then
have to re-log-in and decide to up my bid ... or not.
clear as mud, huh...
consider this... ( I've only used GunBroker.com, myself )
Free-register on a gun-auction site...
search for some newly offered firearm... say, Ruger MK3 Hunter SS
with NO bidders (yet) and initial bid of $200.
This is likely to sell for a bit more... but think about entering
a bid of $210... you become the HighBidder and may remain
so for a while... then in the last day or so... last few hours...
you'll most-likely get out-bid, even if only by $10-15...
BUT... if you ended up getting it... it's a helluva deal ...
but you'll see how the communication works...
YOU will be responsible for sending $$ + S/H/Ins to the seller
within a few days... consider getting a USPS-or-Bank MoneyOrder
or Walmart sells MoneyOrders for a buck or so... (cheaper than USPS)
and YOUR "FFL" signed-license...
The item should then be sent to your FFL in a timely manner and
hopefully... you will receive good eMail communications including
the UPS Tracking number... and you can follow it thru UPS...
Prepare to pay for the item, per your winning bid...
PLUS a S/H/Ins fee... $25?
PLUS pay YOUR FFL to handle it when it comes in... $25?
(the firearm MUST BE SHIPPED TO YOUR FFL, not YOU)
so... keep in mind that paying $50 premium on an auction item price
can creep up on a local GunShop/Used or New price for many items...
with a Risk of dealing over the 'net
-vs- the confidence of buying locally... but not all options are available.
I hope this helps... I'm sure there are other considerations that
others can clarify or add... Good Luck.
-- toy
