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I was finally able to take my former jam-o-matic 22/45 MKIII out to the range today to put a brick through it. I got to about ~400 rounds and then the hammer stopped falling forward. I had already had enough shooting for the day so I packed up and came home.

Upon inspection it looks as though the hammer pivot pin came partially out of the gun. (Towards the left side of the pistol if you are aiming it in front of you). It was obviously and easy fix, but is there anything I can do to keep it in place better, or do I have to get an oversided bushing/pin?

On the plus side though the thing had 0 FTF, FTE's, and stove pipes' so it was a HUGE turnaround for this pistol.

The left side grip should hold the pin in. What kind of grips are you using? You can always put a shim under the left grip, no matter the kind, as long as the grip covers the head of the pin, but the grip panel should always be against the head of the pin to keep it from drifting out.

This is on a MKIII 22/45 so there is no "grip" as there would be on a MKIII.

Waffen wrote:This is on a MKIII 22/45 so there is no "grip" as there would be on a MKIII.

there is small groove in the left end of this pin that the tial of the sear spring snaps into and this holds it in place. Either the pin is in with thregroove on the right or the spring is on the wrong side of the pin, most likely pin is in backwards

Oops. Looks like I had better start reading before writing.

boomer47 wrote:Oops. Looks like I had better start reading before writing.

Jack, we will chalk that one up to old age, even though you are really not that old. You do not have a 22/45 and I do, so each man to his own expertise. You sure do love to tinker with then Hunters don't you? as long as you can sell them and maybe make a buck or two that ain't a bad deal. Have some fun and make a busk at the same time. After seeing people have all kinds of problems on reassembly, can't understand it as they look pretty simple to me.

Len, I just posted a pic of my latest one on the workshop. The scope just came in this morn and I'm just about done with this one.
As I said before, us old men have to have some toys to play with and I'll read the posts more carefully before jumping in with something I know nothing about cause I don't think I've ever seen a 22/45.


R,Jack

This is a typical problem for the 22/45 model pistol. The problem is the same for the Mark II version or the Mark III because the components are identical. Typically what happens is either the hammer pin or the sear spring is in the wrong position. Here's a picture of the proper orientation of the hammer pin and sear spring to lock the pin firmly in place.



The hammer pin must have the groove on the left side of the pistol, nearest side to the sear spring. The long leg of the sear spring must be to the rear of the hammer pin. The spring will have tension on it from being forced rearward. When the hammer pin is inserted the sear spring will press against it and lock into place when the hammer pin's groove aligns with the spring leg. This combination will keep the hammer pin securely fastened in the proper postition so the hammer pin cannot walk under recoil.

If your pin doesn't look like it can align properly then the sear spring may not be installed correctly in the frame. Here's a picture of the sear spring's proper orientation in the 22/45 frame.



Notice the long sear pin leg is located on the outside of the frame and the short sear spring leg is situated towards the center of the frame. The long leg is under tension in this picture because the hammer pin is partially inserted. The hammer pin's groove is shown on the left side of the pistol and in the proper position for insertion.

Adding the thumb safety.



And then the hammer.



Push in the hammer pivot pin until the sear spring locks it into place and your problem should be solved.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

Damn, those are great pictures Bullseye, and you photoshop them well. I use a slightly different method of reassembly working the pins in from the right hand side as I tried the standard method but had problems and the other way worked better for me. Old Polish mechanics saying "It's not the method that count but the end result, if it works properly when you get done then taht was the proper way to do the job " As Fred Dryer on th eold Hunter detectiv show always said "It works ffor me" Due to my right eye central vision problem, Ihave literally no short range depth perception and my method worked for me.

So many people have problems with installing the 22/45 components that I'm going to create a 22/45 instruction Webpage to assist them. Now I just have to gather the shots I want and redesign a page. I'll take a little while but should look as good as the Mark III stripping pages.

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye wrote:So many people have problems with installing the 22/45 components that I'm going to create a 22/45 instruction Webpage to assist them. Now I just have to gather the shots I want and redesign a page. I'll take a little while but should look as good as the Mark III stripping pages.

R,
Bullseye

Try it yourself unsing my method, it seems to meto beeasier to put the sear spring in after the sear is installed, just use a hemostat focep, I think that is the name to inert the spring and push the pin the rest of the way through. Hold the sera cocked and insert ehe hammer and pin from the right and cock the spring and push it through the safety pivot hole.