DIY vs Gunsmith

[Guest]

My new Ruger Mark III is definitely going to need some trigger work. The question I have concerns people's experience with aftermarket parts such as the stuff available from Volquartsen. I am a tinkerer at heart and am not afraid of taking things apart and putting them back together again. Are the improvements that are claimed for the sear and other parts from Volquartsen consistent and reasonably problem free. Or am I better off just paying a gunsmith to do the necessary work on the original parts. I don't have the experience nor all the best tools for doing any kind of additional work after dropping in replacement parts. It seems as though some fitting and polishing is likely to be required.

My local gunsmith says he can give me a good, clean 2-2.5 lb trigger pull for $75.00 and will add a Clark trigger for another $30.00. It seems like it just might be worth it to avoid any potential agravation.

But if all it takes is to drop in a Volquartsen sear I'm willing to give it a shot.

DWS

[Bullseye]

Your gunsmith is offering you a fair price for labor on a trigger job. $30 to install a Clark trigger is also fair considering the triggers cost $20 retail.

If you are skilled a disassembling your Mark III (22/45?) then adding a VQ sear is a very user friendly project which will improve the feel of the trigger significantly on its own. Fitting a Clark trigger can be a little tricky. They are slightly oversized on the trigger well dimensions and require some careful work with a file to custom fit into your gun. For a very good trigger feel a drop-in sear and moderate fitting trigger are all most people need to get the pull down to a decent 2-2.5# level.

Which ever way you decide to go on the trigger job (Smith vs. DIY) be sure to keep your old factory parts. If you have to send your pistol back to Ruger for any service reason they will automatically remove your aftermarket parts and install new factory ones. Many a owner has faced this problem of having their pistol refurbished back to original factory specifications and lost their custom parts. Keep the factory OEMs, and swap them back in before shipping the gun back for any factory repair.

This is a project requiring relatively minor mechanical self help skills for installing a Clark trigger and the VQ sear. Ultimately how do you feel about tackling this task? The answer will drive your decision.

Good luck with the choice,
R,
Bullseye

[DancesWithSquirrels]

I tend to agree that the gunsmith's price was reasonable. I don't begrudge anyone a fair payment for good work.

My inclination is to do it myself just for the personal satisfaction of doing so. I guess I am mainly trying to determine the likelihood that the Volquartsen sear might turn out to be either more than just a drop in or not produce the desired results. The Ruger dismantling doesn't seem overly difficult if I pay attention.

DWS

[Bullseye]

Replacing the sear is the simplest part of the whole job. The VQ sear just drops right in to the pistol. Every now and then a sear comes from VQ a little out of specs but that doesn't happen very often. A set of pin punches are very handy in keeping everthing aligned up as you reassemble and replace the sear and hammer pins.

R,
Bullseye

[DancesWithSquirrels]

Thanks for the replies. I actually have a set of pin punches. Like I said I am not afraid of taking things apart. I just get a little nervous if I have to start filing or polishing critical parts like hammers and sears. It would be too easy to mess up a critical angle. I think I am going to give that VQ sear a go. I'll give the Clark trigger a little more thought. It doesn't sound like a drop in.

DWS

[Bullseye]

The Clark just takes a little minor fitting, it's not bad. Good idea to go with the sear first. See what kind of trigger pull that gives you and then decide if you need more. I'd recommend adding in a prt-travel screw into your factory trigger, it'll take a whole bunch of that travel out of the pull.

R,
Bullseye

[DancesWithSquirrels]

Yep, that pre-travel can definitely use some attention. Does the Clark trigger have a pre-travel screw built in?

DWS

[Bullseye]

The Clark trigger doesn't come with that feature. Marvel triggers were the only ones that came with a pre-travel screw. Although, VQ is now offering one installed on the Mark III triggers in their new Mark III trigger upgrade kit. The kit is pretty expensive for what you really need to get a great trigger. Perhaps they'll offer those triggers as separate items, but for right now they don't.

Putting one in is really simple, just follow the instructions I put in the Workshop Forum. Plus, I'll always offer you some advice, or coaching if you need it.

R,
Bullseye

[boomer47]

Bullseye has it right as usual.
The VQ sear will give the most improvement for the money. Polish the outside of the disconnector where it touches the frame, the top and sides of the trigger return plunger, the underside of the small arm of the disconnector that rides on top of the return plunger. and(one of Bullseye's tricks) polish the inside of the trigger return plunger hole. Just leave the sear and hammer hook alone til you feel a little more sure of what you are doing. You will probably never need to touch the sear or trigger hook to get a good pull.
I cut two coils off the trigger return spring and that, with the polishing and VQ sear alone gave me a 22 oz. trigger pull. Make a trigger pretravel screw next on your list, makes a huge difference.
While you are at it you may want to take out the magazine disconnect. It'll make the disassembly/reassembly a whole lot simpler.

[DancesWithSquirrels]

I was looking at the Clark trigger on their web site and I think I might hold off on that a bit. From the picture I saw it does not seem to offer a much wider face if at all from the factory trigger. And since it doesn't have a pre-travel screw that means I'd have to install that myself anyway. But I will order that VQ sear and give it a try along with some cleaning and polishing. Maybe VQ will make their trigger available separately soon.

Since I'm hoping to do a little bullseye competing with this thing I guess I'll leave the magazine disconnect alone. The rules say you have to leave all manufacturer safety devices fully operable. It is only a minor annoyance anyway.

DWS

[boomer47]

The VQ trigger, along with other VQ parts, is available at Rimfire Sports.

Good prices, fast and free shipping.

http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchant.m ... y_Code=VC2

[DancesWithSquirrels]

Oops. I'm at work right now and that particular site seems to be blocked. I don't know how they regulate the internet policy around here. Most gun related sites are blocked but there are a few that I am able to get to such as this one and MarkII.org. I'll check out Rimfire Sports when I get home. Are they selling a Mark III VQ trigger as a separate item?

DWS

[boomer47]

The trigger is listed for the MK11 and 22/45 but it fits the MK111 also.
And yes, it is sold as a seperate item.

[Bullseye]

DWS,

If you mean the Mark III trigger with the pre-travel screw built into it; then no, it's not a separate item. You may be able to call Volquartsen and talk Nick into giving you one as a separate item, and possibly pitch it to him that that would be a hot item to sell individually.

R,
Bullseye

[jambiex]

If you get the MarkII hammer, I would suggest to get the Clark bushing. It removes most of the creep. But best of all, you can take out the magazine disconnector and spring. You'll end up with a better gun with fewer parts
I took the plunge and used an arkansas stone on the sear and hammer. Be very careful not to change any angles. With this, the last bit of creep was gone.
About the only thing left for me to do is to machine the hammer hook down a few thousands. Alas, the only tool I have is a dremel, so this will just have to wait.