Instead of a beer can shim
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Instead of a beer can shim
I thought of an idea that might work instead of the beer can shim to tighten up the fit between the barrel and receivers on Rugers.
What if you drilled and tapped the top of the lug on the receiver? You could then use a set screw to adjust the fit between the two parts. I think a larger set screw would be better because you have more surface mass.
What do you think?
What if you drilled and tapped the top of the lug on the receiver? You could then use a set screw to adjust the fit between the two parts. I think a larger set screw would be better because you have more surface mass.
What do you think?
- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
What Ruger firearm are you referring to? I f it is an auto loading pistol the barrel and receiver is thee top part, the bolt runs in the receiver. What
I believe you are referring to is the frame, would probably work all right as long as you do bot drill into the trigger area.
I believe you are referring to is the frame, would probably work all right as long as you do bot drill into the trigger area.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


I believe this type of modification is possible but would be very difficult to adjust and maintain. The shim method is not very susceptible to recoil vibrations like a set screw would be, even with Locktite sealant applied. The barrel can generate enough heat, depending on use, to soften the hold of the thread locking sealant and work its way loose. The front lug is right underneath the chamber and would heat quite rapidly during firing.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye

Sorry I didn't make myself clear on the firearm. I was thinking for Ruger Mk..... I was thinking that with the beer can shim your lifting the barrel up off of the curved part where the two parts join. This way you pushing the two parts together into the curve.
I know the beer can shim works good and has been around for a long time. Just thinking outside of the box.
I know the beer can shim works good and has been around for a long time. Just thinking outside of the box.
I always thought that was a weak part of the Mark pistol design, along with the riveted ejector. I've seen that Tactical Solutions has an ejector that installs with a screw replacing the rivet, and debated getting one. Ejector problems seem to be very rare, though.
My Mark III Target is at about 3k rounds over five years, and still snug at the barrel / receiver connection. I've had it apart at least 12-15 times, probably more, and still need a rubber hammer. I make a point of having a drop of oil on each contact surface before reassembly, but don't know if that has actually helped or not.
My Mark III Target is at about 3k rounds over five years, and still snug at the barrel / receiver connection. I've had it apart at least 12-15 times, probably more, and still need a rubber hammer. I make a point of having a drop of oil on each contact surface before reassembly, but don't know if that has actually helped or not.
* 2 Ruger Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols