SS 1911 Custom Build

[blue68f100]

I decided to build myself a 1911 Range target gun. Since my Dr has me on light duty I figured I would use this as therapy. I had ordered the Caspian Frame and slide from Caspian late December. It came in the 2nd week of March. They said they were running about 8-10wks back log. They were pretty close. I had a custom SN put on the receiver, so I blanked it out. I will post my progress as I progress. Most of my build parts will be EGW, WC and EB all high quality parts. I have been told to use good parts because the fit will be easier. Harder when the parts are out of spec.

I have a gunsmith lined up to bail me out if I get over my head. Plus he is going to check the gun before the initial firing. There are a few things that I can not do, that he will do for me. Cut sight ramps for one when I decide. I don't trust my cheap end mill for a precision cut.

Here are some photos of the frame and slide



Integrated plunger tube, this one's not coming off.




When I picked up the receiver/slide from my FFL he asked why no site cuts? I told him I don't see the the sights so I decided to leave them off. But really I have not decided if I want to flat top and serrate so I left it blank for now. I have been debating on installing a Dot sight. Those I can see.

My first task was to make sure every thing was in spec. I spent a couple of days measuring the frame and slide. What I found was that Caspian makes the slide rail slots taper 0.004" from just past the breach face forward. I called on this and it's done to free the gun up during recoil. Apparently this use to be done to race guns and Caspian still does it.

All my measurements determined that I needed to thin the frame rails. Need to remove approx 0.0025"-0.003" off each side and about 0.0005" off the top. This is a ground granite block covered with sandpaper and a AL bar used as guide, to give me a square cut. I did one side first before switching to the other. This way I could keep up with how much was removed off each side. I measured a lot and used layout fluid to make sure I was taking it off even.



This worked very very well. Working a 1-2 hrs a day it took me about a week to do using 400 and 600 grit paper. I was using a light oil for fit check, being a SS frame/slide I did not want it to guall up. Once I was able to slide it on with light tapping force I did some light lapping. I used JB Bore paste thinned with oil for lapping.

This slide glides, tilt at 45deg and it will slide off. No side to side play when in battery. Tight and Smooth.



I'm fitting a WC Bullet Proof Grip Safety. I used the WC jig to cut the frame tangs using a file. Caspian has the rough cut as an option. It was not hard to do, took only 45min to get down to the jig.




The WC jig is over size so it leave you material to do the fine fitting. I'm shooting for a no line joint, ~0.002". I purchased a pin gauge set to walk the GS in as I removed material. The technique used, is that you mark the frame then put on the GS, Rotate and file where it rubs. Continue on till you get to your GS pins size. I found this tutorial on another forum. Here is a photo with a 0.140" pin at start. The frame hole size is 0.158" so I need to get down to 0.156" to get a good fit.



Here is a photo showing the gap around the pin.



I ordered an EGW thumb safety and it has a 0.153" pin which is too loose for my liking. I called around and found that the WC has the largest pins. So that is what I have on the way right now. The std line is 0.158" where the bullet proof line is 0.155". These measurements came from Wilson Service tech's pulling parts and measuring.

Here is a photo with the EGW TS installed.





Once my WC TS comes in I will do the final pin fitting and do the blending. Top and grip area.

Sneak peak with WC V-main spring housing & GS installed.



I have a KKM Gunsmith fit barrel for it. Waiting for tools to come in to fit the barrel.

to be continued.....

[Bullseye]

Looks like you're off to a good start especially considering the limited tools you have to work with on this project. Nice job fitting the beavertail grip safety. Do you have an "easy-fit" or "regular" cut barrel?

R,
Bullseye

[blue68f100]

I have a gunsmith fit barrel. I have the tools coming to fit it. I will be using my end mill on it. I don't trust my self with a file for precision work. My tool collection has grown by $500 not counting the ones I machined for this project.

I have an end mill just elected not to use it on the frame. A surface grinder would have been more precise. I ended up with 0.0015" clearances on the slide to frame fit. So I have it as tight as you would like. I had it tighter than that. I applied some heavier oil and the slide did not go on, so I opened it up another 0.0005" . I'm happy with the slide to frame fit. Still working on the GS fit. Soon as I get the WC GS in hand and confirm the pin size I will finish my fitting. It's real amazing that you get no drag with one pin size. Going up 0.001" the pin will not even go all the way through, once side then some. So it take a little file work on the side you start to even get the pin to start.

I'm enjoying this project. I'm a perfectionist at the highest level according to some test that were given to me when I worked in the R&D lab. I'm very detail orientated, I just hate sloppy work. After looking an my friends LB Stinger, I though it was junk for $2k. The only thing tight was the barrel/slide/bushing. The barrel was not even fitted properly. So I decided I could build one better than that. And I am...... For the same $$$ amount but with better quality parts.

[charlesb]

It sure is a pleasure to look at fine work like that.

Instructive, too.

Keep us posted, please!

[blue68f100]

Charles, Thanks for the compliments.

The WC thumb safety came in at 0.01565", I was told it's 0.158" . After clean up to make it round and remove some pitting from the casting it's at 0.156". Fits OK in the frame hole but needs clearance to fit frame since it stands out further than most I have seen. Any way it looks cheap on my gun with all the billet parts so I ordered the WC BP line to get a higher quality finish. If this part comes in at 0.155" like I was told I will be happy.

I get the rest of my barrel fitting tools in Friday, along with more EGW parts.

I'm taking photos as I go.

I'm have way too much fun on this project.

[blue68f100]

I received the WC BP TS, has a 0.155" pin so I'm happy with the size. Will have to make the thumb rest larger, too small for my taste. So I finished the fit to the frame and started the blending process.

Most all of my parts are here now. Still waiting on the Monogram Angle Bushing set and FP stop.

Started the top blending to frame.



Used a jig by Harrison Design to hold the GS out firmly.



Jig in frame. It has a set screw that comes out the trigger opening that pushes the rod tight against the GS. Which is locked in place with the main spring housing.



I made be a couple of jigs while I was waiting on barrel fitting parts to come in.

Extractor tensioning jig.


My cheap way of measuring extractor pressure applied to the brass.


Now in order to cut the barrel hood I made a jig to hold the barrel. It has a indexing pin so I can remove the barrel and put it back without loosing my index. I put the barrel/slide on the frame and measured the distance from the right side of the barrel hood to the left side of the slide. I used this measurement to determine how much I needed to remove from each side of the hood. I then used a EGW lug measuring tool to measure how much I had to shorten the hood. I left all of my cuts just a tad long for hand fitting. Then I had filed/sand from there till it dropped into the slide with light pressure. It has a snap when it goes in. Looking for a tight lockup. Notice the chip on one of the flutes.





I got ready to cut the lugs and noticed my carbide cutter had a chip, so I ordered some Cobalt cutters since they are better for cutting SS.

I got the lugs cut so the barrel fits the slide/frame now. Still working on getting the barrel to 100% lockup and alignment with the firing pin, setting low. Will post some more photos as I fit the barrel.

Once the barrel fit is finished it will shipped to a gunsmith to:
1. Angle bore a thick flange bushing
2. Flush cut barrel, cut target crown (11°)
3. Finish ream the chamber
4. Double check my barrel fit while he has it. According to my measurements I have 0.000" fit with #1 & #2 lugs. #3 is off 0.003"
5. Engrave slide with my special brand that I used when I made custom knives.
6. Build up (tig weld) TS so I can profile it differently. The WC tactical is very small.

While it's gone I will finish the GS fit, blending.
Fit trigger's. I have 2, short and med reach.
Clean up some blemishes around the trigger guard.
Then build out the frame.
I have already profiled the extractor.

Work planed for the slide when it comes back. Flat top and serrate.

I still have not made up my mind on the sights.

[blue68f100]

More photos.

Showing blending of GS to frame.





Barrel hood fitted..



My FP alignment check tool with different size pins.



I'm getting close, still need to raise the barrel. The Caspian slide is setup for a 9mm/38super which uses a 0.068" FP. Currently at 91% lockup.

[Bullseye]

Looks like it is coming along nicely. I fit the barrel hoods by hand. I feel it give me much more control over how much clearance I get between the hood and the slide. I generally use a .003" gap between the hood and the slide. It takes a little more time to fit but that's the way I learned how to do it in the old days so I just stick with it. Are you going to cut the barrel lugs or send it out?

R,
Bullseye

[blue68f100]

I only used the end mill to remove the bulk. I had to remove about 0.006" from the right side and 0.008" from the left. The hood had to be shortened by 0.028". Once I was within 0.002-0.003" I did hand fitting from there. With power tools you can mess things up a lot faster. So going by hand I'm less likely to over shoot my target.

I have the Brownells lug cutter for cutting the lower feet. Right now the barrel/slide and bushing is getting ready to be shipped to a gunsmith. He is going to do an angle bore bushing for the EGW Thick flange I have. While I wait on the monogram set from EGW. On his list of things to do is, correct any fitting problem to the barrel. Right now it will not go down like it should, lacks about 0.008". I suspect it's hitting on the side of the #1 slide slot. But instead of messing up the barrel, I'm letting him check it out then finish fitting. Then he can flush cut cut barrel the, and do a 11deg crown. He is also going to monogram the slide with what I used in the 70's-80's when I made custom knives. He just happen to have the same engraver I used so my template fits his machine.

[blue68f100]

Work continues... I have pretty much finished the GS blending. I do have one spot on the bottom (below the hammer) that is low that needs to be cleaned up. It did not show up till I started polishing it out. I do have one other issue to address. The GS is 0.005" narrower than the frame (frame is max spec, thick), and WC washed the edges when they buffed the part. So it looks worst than it is. I may have it welded up and finish it as I should or just blend it.

Here are some photos of the fit.

Top view showing what a buffer does to edges...... You think WC would know better with the BP line any way.



Bottom view



GS in normal on state.



Off state



My slide/barrel/bushing should be on it's way back some time next week. I had a gunsmith flush cut barrel, 11° crown, polish crown and angle bore a FLGR bushing set. Once it's back I will be ready to cut the lower barrel lugs/feet. Then I can start the final blending of the slide to frame. The slide is approx 0.030" long.

Still having fun and have not destroyed any parts YET.

Will be building the frame out while I wait for the slide.

[blue68f100]

Did some more work.

Fitted and install 2 triggers, short (shown) and medium length. Install magazine release. Fitted and have the ejector ready to be installed (not pinned). Going to confirm it's not to long before I pin it to the frame. Installed the ignition group, Harrison Design Extreme Service True Radius Sear set. Checked engagement of sear and hammer (dead on), had to adj the relief cut. The sear was not back cut and had full hammer hook engagement. Adj trigger pull down to 4 1/4 lbs., started at 5 3/4 lbs. Fit the slide stop to frame, pin was 0.0005" over size. Adj stop on grip safety activations so it will release the trigger.



Started cleaning frame up of machining gouges, and imperfections. Did some polish work on the frame, main spring housing, hammer, slide stop.

The gunsmith has flush cut the barrel to bushing length. Should be headed to me soon. Found out that the side of the barrel was contacting the slide body, 0.005" had to be removed from each side. I now have a dead center FP alignment. He commented that the way I had the barrel hood fit to slide it actually make a snap when it drops end. He was impressed I got it that good on my first barrel fit. Did some welding on the thumb safety to reprofile the shelf.



Can't want to get it back and finish the build.

[bgreenea3]

looking very nice, Blue.....

[blue68f100]

Making some progress on this build. I did the final fitting checks for the barrel/slide on the frame. I went to use Brownells barrel holder so I could cut the lower barrel lugs/feet and discovered I could not clamp the barrel with out it rotating.



No matter what I did I could not prevent this. It was tilting the lower lugs/feet so it would not slide onto the frame. Using Dykem I found the contact points. So I started filing these high spots down. Kept this up till I could not find any more high spots.



This all helped but I ran into a snag. I was at/near 100% lockup with perfect FP alignment and it was still rotating.





Measurements show that lugs 1 and 2 are equal spacing with #3 0.003" off. The gunsmith I sent the slide /barrel/bushing to confirmed I was dead on with my lug positions. Not bad for my first fitting.



Since I was not going to raise the barrel any higher into the slide I decided to cut the lower lugs/feet. Since the FP alignment tool did not cause the barrel to rotate, I decided to use it instead of the Brownell's holder. I used the 0.196" Lug cutter from Brownells (need to post picture of this setup), my slide lock pin is 0.200". I checked the lower lugs to confirm that I got a even cut and did. So I used a under size pin to see if the barrel would rotate when sitting on the lower lugs/feet. With the lower lugs setting on the pin the barrel rotated giving me contact mainly only on one side, touch the edge of the other. My guess is that Caspian slide is out of spec by a few 1/1000's. I have no way to measure it to confirm but all indications point to this. I talked to the gunsmith that did the work for me and he said the barrel was true. He had to remove 0.005" off each side for the barrel to drop in to the slide the rest of the way. He also said he had the same problem I'm having on one that he built for himself. He said to remove the material from the slide using a small grinder wheel on a Dremel. Looks like I get to sand the side down at the 9:00 area so it will sit straight. But I will use something less aggressive like a sanding drum on my miniature die grinder. It's small enough to fit through the bushing opening.

Getting close.......

[bgreenea3]

Nice work Blue! What finish are you going to do to it? Polished, a bead blasted satin, a brushed look, or a combo of the three? (Satin frame and top strap with a polished look on the sides type of look)

Inquiring minds want to know.........

[blue68f100]

A combination of all 3. Since this is going to be a shooter I don't really want a finish that will be hard to up keep. Right now I'm going for polished controls, flats on slide may be a polish to start with. Since SS shows scratches so easy if I go this way I can always tone it down later. The rest will be a satin finish. I still have a lot of detail work to do on the receiver to clean up some lines. Currently that's the least of thoughts.

I still need to make a decision on flat topping the slide and adding serrations. I need to do this before I have the sight dove tail cuts. I'm going to go with Precision Sales Int TTF (FO) adj rear sight with the LPA cut. http://www.precisionsights.com/Product/ ... _page.html Since the FP in this slide sets 0.018" higher it will change the front sight height. Once I flat top I will be able to more accurately determine what height front site I need. I may or may not get the front sight from them. Right now I have been running number on flat top cuts and what is left for the front sight. Initial calculations say if I make a 0.025" flat top It will leave me with ~ 0.085"-0.090" of meat left for the cut.

I finished fitting the barrel to the slide this morning. My link pin sets will be here some time Friday. Then I will be at a stage to do the final checks and prepare to test fire.