I bought a used Mark 1 for $60.00. So far a fantastic plinker and has not failed once with about 300 rds of CCI through it. I dis-assembled it. I am sure you know what is coming - Is there a good reference to this pistol so I can reassemble it without creating new words in my vocabulary?? I also would like to find a reference for custromizing it
THANKS ahead of time
NOOB - first post Ruger Mark I
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tackleberry45
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JeepinCalifornia
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Looks like a new web help page is on the horizon. You're the second person in a week to ask this very same question. While the Mark I pistol is very similar to the Mark IIs and IIIs, there are some minor differences in the model and its reassembly. You can use a Mark II page to help for now and if you have any difficulties, ask me and I'll talk you through it.
In the mean time, is there any particular concerns or questions you have about your new pistol now? Are there any particular things that you'd like to see incorporated in a Mark I maintenance web help page?
R,
Bullseye
In the mean time, is there any particular concerns or questions you have about your new pistol now? Are there any particular things that you'd like to see incorporated in a Mark I maintenance web help page?
R,
Bullseye
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tackleberry45
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I Am very new to the rimfire world, as in this is my first. I cannot get the little pin to line up properly when trying to get the final piece into the backstrap. As for other questions, I really want to make this as accurate as possible. Are there any tuning tricks or external parts to make this Mark 1 sing??
Well that part is the same between all the different Ruger 22 Auto models. Let's see if I can talk you through the process.
That little part is called the hammer strut and the part you're trying to seat it on is called the mainspring cap. The trick to assembly requires the pistol be flipped upside down and then tilted slightly rearwards as you close the mainspring housing.
Get your pistol all ready and assembled, except closing the mainspring housing. This means have the bolt stop pin installed in the receiver and the hammer fully forward (uncocked). Flip the pistol upside down. If you're not sure if the hammer is in the full forward position, you can squeeze the trigger and push it forward with a tool; like in this picture.
It doesn't have to be a punch, you can use a pencil if you want. Just use something long and skinny.
Next you want to pick up the pistol, keep it upside down, and then tilt it slightly rearward. If the barrel's pointed upward at about 45 degrees relative to the plane of the ground, that would be good. You'll see the hammer strut fall back slightly and rest against the mainspring housing; like in this picture.
Then you slowly raise up the mainspring housing and close it into the frame. At this time you should be able to close the latch. Next flip the pistol back right side up and then you can cycle the bolt. If the bolt cycles normally and the hammer can be dropped by squeezing the trigger, you've finished successfully. If the bolt only goes back about 1/2" and then stops, that little strut fell off of the mainspring cap and you have to open the housing and try it all over again. It takes a few tries the first time or two, but once you get it you'll won't have difficulty closing the pistol anymore.
Pretty much everything I've discussed is covered in the reassembly section of this page- http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm
$60 for a Ruger Mark I? Well I don't know what condition it is in but that was one heck of a deal! What kind of pistol is Mark I is it? (Does it have a bull barrel or tapered one, adjustable or fixed sights, what year was it made, etc.)
Once we get everything back together then we can discuss future upgrades.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
That little part is called the hammer strut and the part you're trying to seat it on is called the mainspring cap. The trick to assembly requires the pistol be flipped upside down and then tilted slightly rearwards as you close the mainspring housing.
Get your pistol all ready and assembled, except closing the mainspring housing. This means have the bolt stop pin installed in the receiver and the hammer fully forward (uncocked). Flip the pistol upside down. If you're not sure if the hammer is in the full forward position, you can squeeze the trigger and push it forward with a tool; like in this picture.
It doesn't have to be a punch, you can use a pencil if you want. Just use something long and skinny.
Next you want to pick up the pistol, keep it upside down, and then tilt it slightly rearward. If the barrel's pointed upward at about 45 degrees relative to the plane of the ground, that would be good. You'll see the hammer strut fall back slightly and rest against the mainspring housing; like in this picture.
Then you slowly raise up the mainspring housing and close it into the frame. At this time you should be able to close the latch. Next flip the pistol back right side up and then you can cycle the bolt. If the bolt cycles normally and the hammer can be dropped by squeezing the trigger, you've finished successfully. If the bolt only goes back about 1/2" and then stops, that little strut fell off of the mainspring cap and you have to open the housing and try it all over again. It takes a few tries the first time or two, but once you get it you'll won't have difficulty closing the pistol anymore.
Pretty much everything I've discussed is covered in the reassembly section of this page- http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm
$60 for a Ruger Mark I? Well I don't know what condition it is in but that was one heck of a deal! What kind of pistol is Mark I is it? (Does it have a bull barrel or tapered one, adjustable or fixed sights, what year was it made, etc.)
Once we get everything back together then we can discuss future upgrades.
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
Tackleberry45, I just posted my finish for today on my Mark I. I'm like you new to the site and this is my first Ruger pistol. These guys and this web site are awesome and lots of help. I paid $125.00 for mine and it's a 1976 model with the the wording on the top of the action. Ser #13-. Mine is not real slick externally but shoots okay.
Good Luck, Ken
Good Luck, Ken
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tackleberry45
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Stand by, I am going to take pictures this Sunday and maybe I can get a feel for the real condition of this pistol. I am also going to post the serial number to see if the forum can give me an idea of manufacture date. I am going to try the suggestion above to get it back together. Thanks to all. BTW, this thing is pretty accurate for something I believe is around 30 or so years old....
You can check the birthdate of your pistol on the Ruger website http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/ ... ry-PI.html#
and just click on the "Standard and Mark I" cell.
Or you could just click this link:
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/ ... MarkI.html
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye
and just click on the "Standard and Mark I" cell.
Or you could just click this link:
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/ ... MarkI.html
Hope this helps.
R,
Bullseye