1911 screw studs--22/45 herret nationals

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:31 pm

shooting mentor says i'm at the point where i either ditch the 22/45 markiii or figure out a grip solution.

i've decided to go for herrett target nationals, with the palm shelf.

my question is where do i get the 1911 grip screw studs to mount into the frame once i've sanded the panels down?

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 4:56 pm

You can get the grip screw bushings from either Midway or Brownells. Here's a link to Midway http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/BrowseP ... 06***16006***

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 5:11 pm

Do you think that its best to go with the slim bushings, i.e. is there any risk they will hit the magazine or other part if they are too long? I would think the longer ones are going to be more secure...especially if once inserted i can dab a little epoxy on them from the inside. It's hard for me to visualize how much room there is clearance for once the panels are sanded down...I don't have a 1911 to see regular bushings. Maybe I should wait and see how long the screws are that come with the grips?

Post by **Bullseye** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 12:33 am

Use the regular length bushings on your 22/45, unless you're planning to go with a set of slim profile 1911 grips. I haven't seen anyone use slim profile grips on a 22/45. Especially since everyone who's adding the 1911 grips is trying to increase the girth of their Mark III 22/45's grip, not keep it the same. The grips screws on a normal set of 1911 grip panels, with regular length bushings, will not extend into the magazine well far enough to interfere with the magazine.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:23 pm

My concern is not necessarily the screws, but the bushings themselves. But as I look at the pictures, I think its clear they all penetrate the grip the same depth, only the head above the threaded part is what determines if its "slim" or not.

I'll start with the cheap ones at the top of the list, hopefully it will be all good.

Also, I think others have used JB Weld epoxy to mount the bushings, sounds right?

Thanks

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:17 am

What are you using to sand down the grips?

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:30 am

I will probably start very slowly with a dremel tool, and then move to hand sandpaper. I will probably go easy around the sear pin... I am thinking of actually not getting close to it, but rather hollowing out the grip at that point and not touching that area at all, as I see that as the only way things could go very wrong. I may even just make a hole in the grip for the sear pin, to allow for a detail strip without removing the grips, because I would rather not subject the new screw bushings to repeated tightening-untightening. I figure if I go with a different grip someday I can deal with the remaining material around the sear pin at that point, either making the same accommodations to those grips, or finally flattening the area around the pin. We'll see how easy/hard the material is to work with and I'll go from there.

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:43 pm

Thanks for the reply - Doesn't the sear pin on the 22/45 have a groove on the left side to retain it in the frame? Been a while since I replaced the sear in mine but that sticks in my mind. Would think that as long as the textured section of the grip "Panels" are level with the rest of the frame then all should be OK - Right? Or am I out in left field, lol?

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:00 pm

Yes. It should be fine as long as no damage comes to the parts of the frame that hold the sear pin snugly in place.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:58 pm

I think Mechlobo is trying to describe that he wants to make a sear pin access hole in the 1911 grips to facilitate detail stripping without the necessity of removing the grips and therefore stressing the frame and the grip bushings. Like this one-

By leaving a access hole the frame can be stripped without the need of grip removal. Just adding grips without these holes would add an extra step to detail stripping.

OpsMgr - The sear pin is grooved but that groove is in the inside of the frame. Grinding off the grip panels flush is no problem as the sear pin is recessed slightly in the frame.

When the panels are ground flush, the pin is even with the remaining plastic material. Adding on the new panels will not interfere with the sear pin even if one elects not to add an access hole into their grip panels. the frame will look like this -

Hope this answers all the relevant questions.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:58 am

I was actually thinking a little of both, make a hole in the grips but also hollow them above the sear pin and leave some material around the sear pin to avoid risk. We'll see. The Herret's are nice walnut, I'm not sure I want to put a hole in them. Since I've already done the VQ sear and hammer, I don't know that I'll ever really need to pull the sear pin to do a strip. I've become a fan of gunscrubber synth spray now, and VQ says not to oil the sear anyway. Removing the hammer pin gives access to just about everything in there. In short, I think it will be rare that I need to take the grips off. Has anyone actually reported problems with a loose screw bushing by occasional grip removal?

But along those lines, I have only read of people using JB Weld epoxy to mount the screw busings. Do you think that's the best way to go?

Post by **Bullseye** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:36 am

Sure, JB Weld is a good epoxy adhesive for this kind of modification. I use Marine-Tex or Accraglass but that's because I have them on hand for bedding rifle stocks. For small use applications JB Weld is a good epoxy bonding agent.

R,
Bullseye

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:27 pm

Outstanding post and thanks! Now I understand and think it is high time I do this same mod on my 22/45. Never thought about the sear pin hole - Like melchloboo the trigger work is done on my 22/45 but may need to detail strip at some later date. Excellent idea...

Post by **Bullseye** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:45 pm

I look forward to seeing your finished product.

You can use a heavy tape (like duct tape) to mask off the areas around the panels and reduce the likeliness of accidental marring from the grinding tools.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:47 pm

2 quick questions:

1. Do the ruger emblems pop off, or do they get sanded? I don't really care about keeping them...

2. Well this one not so quick. The nationals are different from most 1911 slab style grips (they are dependent upon the screw bushings to position, not the grip shape), so I don't think it wise to use them to place the screw bushings. The problem would be that if I ever want to take them off and put something else on, or sell the gun with slab sides, the screw bushings might be in an awkward spot. So what I want to do is find some kind of slab-style template to use to place the bushings, as the screw positions relative to each other should always be the same. Then I'll put the nationals on. I mean I will negotiate a little between the two, but I don't want screw bushings positioned where my options are limited later. Anyway, is there a best grip outline to use for the 22/45, that will allow me to put the bushings in a generic spot that most grips will like, and where/how could I get an outline to print on paper and use to position my bushings?