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Even though it is supposed to get easier, I find that stripping down my Mark II is a real PIB. For the last couple of thorough cleanings, I have simply removed the grips and used Gun Scrubber Synthetic Safe Cleaner -- lots of it. It seems to do the job and so far I have noticed no harmful effects. Any comments on this? Is the stuff really completely safe on a stainless gun? (For "in-between" cleanings I use Hoppe's #9 and a tooth brush)

I know that Gun Scrubber removes all lubricants so where and how do I need to add a little oil.

Thanks,

Tom

I'm sure others here more qualified will have the answer for you however I'd use compressed air after the application of lube to ensure proper coverage and corrosion prevention.

SD

tguil wrote:I find that stripping down my Mark II is a real PIB.

Mine are MK2s (not IIIs) and for me, the field-strip came down to
a realization that the hammer-strut positioning was the key.
Once I left the barrel+bolt to the side for a mock-assembly
to permit a "view" as I inserted the main-spring and
pivot the frame to have the "strut" in position to hit the spring-cup...
all the hold/tilt/etc made sense.
Good luck... --toy

I use gunscrubber synth in a similar way and have had no problems, it does not even harm the bluing on mine. i put a empty brass in the chamber though to avoid any getting in the barrel.

light oil on metal that rubs against each other. as to which and how to apply is a matter of great debate. i have used the dry lube on the ruger as well, seemed fine but hard to tell when it needs it again. with oil you can see dry and dirty so its time to relube and clean.

sorry, i see you said stainless. that i don't know but hard to imagine it would harm the finish.it may leave a film behind, but that should wipe off. you may want to call birchwood casey.

also try to keep it away from any screw where you have loctite. like the sights. if it gets in there it may eat away at the loctite.

I use brake cleaner from AutoZone instead of Gun Scrubber. I believe it's just as effective and a heck of a lot cheaper. As stated earlier, you do need to relube.

Rev

i have heard brake cleaner is the same as g.s. and in any case works as well, but possibly the g.s. synthetic is a little different as it will not melt plastic.

That's certainly true. I wouldn't let brake parts cleaner contact anything plastic or painted. Actually, if you want plastic safety, you could use carburetor cleaner (I think it's plastic safe?)

Rev

Rev wrote:That's certainly true. I wouldn't let brake parts cleaner contact anything plastic or painted. Actually, if you want plastic safety, you could use carburetor cleaner (I think it's plastic safe?)

Rev

iI use brake c leaner on my 22/45's with no problems, stay away from carb cleaner in doors as it is FLAMMABLE and you could have a problem.

I use brake cleaner as well for lots of tough jobs. I also use carb cleaner but BAOM is right on about caution...it's got acetone!

SD

Rev wrote:That's certainly true. I wouldn't let brake parts cleaner contact anything plastic or painted. Actually, if you want plastic safety, you could use carburetor cleaner (I think it's plastic safe?)

Rev

+1+

I once ruined a set of eyeglasses, when a breeze blew some brake part cleaner back into my face. The glasses saved my eyes, but died in the process. Brake part cleaner destroys plastic on contact.

Since then, I've always used carburator cleaner. It works just fine, and I don't have to worry about damage to eyeglasses or other plastic items.

cadillo wrote:

Rev wrote:That's certainly true. I wouldn't let brake parts cleaner contact anything plastic or painted. Actually, if you want plastic safety, you could use carburetor cleaner (I think it's plastic safe?)

Rev

+1+

I once ruined a set of eyeglasses, when a breeze blew some brake part cleaner back into my face. The glasses saved my eyes, but died in the process. Brake part cleaner destroys plastic on contact.

Since then, I've always used carburator cleaner. It works just fine, and I don't have to worry about damage to eyeglasses or other plastic items.

Whatever you preder, jsut stay away from sparks and flames, in my many years a sa service tech on engines, we commonly used it as a starting fluid. Does tht tell you something?

bearandoldman wrote:

cadillo wrote:

Rev wrote:That's certainly true. I wouldn't let brake parts cleaner contact anything plastic or painted. Actually, if you want plastic safety, you could use carburetor cleaner (I think it's plastic safe?)

Rev

+1+

I once ruined a set of eyeglasses, when a breeze blew some brake part cleaner back into my face. The glasses saved my eyes, but died in the process. Brake part cleaner destroys plastic on contact.

Since then, I've always used carburator cleaner. It works just fine, and I don't have to worry about damage to eyeglasses or other plastic items.

Whatever you preder, jsut stay away from sparks and flames, in my many years a sa service tech on engines, we commonly used it as a starting fluid. Does tht tell you something?

Yes, I preder(sic) that my eyeglasses remain transparent and other items of plastic remain unmelted. If you are suggesting that carburator cleaner is combustible, you jsut(sic) have it all figured.

Why would a properly tuned engine ever require starting fluid? I think that this tells me that perhaps your initial timing lead was a bit advanced for the fuel you were running. If all else is well, back off a bit on the lead and it will crank without magic juice.

Cadillo, I am not referring to automobile engine but mostly small engines, like chain saw and so forth with a diaphragm pumper car. I just heps to get a dry engine running so that a dry carb will pump up faster. An you never use STARTING FLUID, although it will work it washes all the oil film off the piston and cylinder walls and could lead to engine damage. Engines with real fuel pumps do not have these fuel problems, especially when you have a starter motor to crank it over and not a rope to jerk on.I worked mainly on motorcycles, snowmobiles, quads and lawn and garden power equipment of all sizes. And when using the carb cleaner to start units we normally did it outdoors so as not to cause afire hazard in the building, Another good starting fluid is WD-40 as it burns pretty good also. Lived through on building fire that was started by sparks from a gas powered abrasive saw hitting gas fumes and did not get toasted, that has made me very fire safety consoles.

I've used starter fluid (diethyl ether) lots to start engines that wouldn't start otherwise. Mostly carburated engines. Works like a charm, especially on very cold days. I'm not sure it would be all that good a cleaner for firearms, since most of the stuff it would dissolve would be greases and oils. Diethylether is pretty volatile and has a very low flash point, so it is a fire hazard. Although the pressure can stuff is pretty safe, if it is stored around oxygen (in the air) like, in a bottle, shock sensitive peroxides form and will look like a white sediment in the bottle.

Acetone and methanol are less volatile and polar enough to pick up water and some of the salts that are residues from firing. Usually, they won't attack the polymer used for "tupperware" guns. I'd be careful with anything that lists benzene (benzol), toluene (toluol) or methylene chloride as ingredients. Toluene is the "glue" for PVC and plastic models, it dissolves the plastic. They can be pretty aggressive with some polymers. Most light hydrocarbons (petroleum ether) won't bother gun polymers.

One more piece of trivia. You often can't see the flames from a fire with acetone, diethylether or methyl alcohol. Folks have been known to walk into a fire from one of these because they didn't see flames.