How to use loctite on VQ trigger screws?

[melchloboo]

I know this may sound silly, but I am not very familiar with using loctite. I have the blue so I can make changes later.

How quickly does it set and how do I use it to keep the pre-travel and post-travel screws where I want? Do I actually have to apply it to threads before I screw them in, or can I just apply it to the threads I can see and it will work its way into the hole/screw?

In the case of the pre-travel screw, I was thinking to just let a drop down the hole, but my concern is that I will clog up the slot for the hex key and then not be able to adjust anymore.

Basically I just want to get my screws set and forget about them. The pre-travel screw keeps getting loose and keeps the sear from resetting, I need to keep it in place.

[Bullseye]

When I use the locktite, I just apply a little dab to on the threads near the base of the screw and it wicks down into the threads. It takes the sealant about 24 hours to fully set and lock the threads. Using that method I can adjust the screw and then lock it down when I get it right. The sealant will fix the pretravel screw problem, just don't use the pistol for a day once you apply it.

R,
Bullseye

[melchloboo]

thanks i did the posttravel screw and it worked like you said. i see that i can actually reach a toothpick or paperclip onto the the top of the pretravel screw, so i'll put a drop on it that way and let it soak in. that way i won't risk clogging the hole the hex key fits into. i realize now that the new plunger/spring might be the real culprit, but this will help me narrow it down.

[melchloboo]

Now I think the problem is the plunger/spring. Basically 2 things are happening:

1. The trigger is very slow to reset when it does reset. I tried some rapid fire and the reset seemed "sluggish" when it reset, definitely not keeping pace with me. I think this would be a problem in a bullseye match for the rapid fire portion.

2. Sometimes it did not reset. If I put my trigger finger behind the trigger and push forward, it would reset. So I do not think the problem is the pretravel screw, although it could be my loctite failed or I did not give it enough space to account for "jiggle" in the trigger (I wanted to eliminate as much play as possible), but the fact I can push it forward manually makes me think otherwise. Given the screw is pushing against plastic, maybe my pushing just makes it slide against the plastic, but I doubt it.

(3). Those that have tried the trigger think it is less than 2 lbs but I haven't bumped into the members that have a scale. I'd like it to pass the 2lb test safely.

So I am going to put the ruger stock trigger spring back, the question is which plunger should I use (ruger or VQ), does it matter?

[Bullseye]

It doesn't matter which trigger return plunger. Place them side by side and you'll see they are physically the same dimensions. The springs are of different tensions and the OEM will give you about 4-6 ounces more trigger pressure.

If you have the pretravel screw set too close to the let-off point, a similar result could appear. Pushing on the trigger could provide the last thousandth of trigger clearance. Also if the factory preservative hasn't been cleaned off of the frame and the disconnector lever then this could cause some extra drag on these components as it hardens and collects dirt/grit.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

[Rev]

I tried to set my pre-travel screw as close as I could also. After a few attempts, I found that I had to have about 1/16" or 1/32" of trigger pre-travel movement for the disconnecter/sear to reset itself reliably. I tried several times to adjust the pre-travel with less free movement than that, but had to go back to the 1/16"-1/32" trigger pre-travel adjustment to get reliable function.

Rev

[melchloboo]

yes, i just figured that out as well. i replaced the spring and plunger, and was still having the problem. i backed off on the pretravel and gave about the same amount. i realized where i had it before, on the 22/45 the screw was sliding along the plastic frame for the final reset (explaining why it was so slow to finally reset before). sometimes that worked, sometimes not. possibly over time the screw would wear against the plastic and slide reliably, but then i guess the slightest amount of dirt or grime might kill it.

i feel like where i have it now is the utmost limit, just a little bit of play and it seems reliable after 25 dry fires. on a quick release it snaps right back to reset, and on a slow creep resisted by me it resets reliably. will try it at the range in the next few days.

i will wait to weigh the pull before i put back the VQ plunger and spring. it feels barely heavier with the factory spring and plunger.