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Is is bad to dry fire the Mark III?

I can see why it would be. The firing pin only moves a fraction of an inch anyway, and doesn't contact the receiver anyway.

Drying firing is no problem with a Ruger. Dry fire away.

If the firing pin retainer pin breaks or is not in the bolt when dry firing, damage to the breech face can occur. That being said, I have 10's of thousands of rounds through several of my MK's, and haven't even noticed any wear on that retainer pin on any of them. If you are super paranoid about it though, just use a bolt with the firing pin removed.

JJ

It is safe to dry fire a Mark I/II/III pistol. But there is some risk of damage. It is prudent to periodically check the firing pin stop for damage. Excessive dry firing can damage the pin and allow chamber mouth damage. I have had some pistols in for either broken or bent firing pin stops. Here's an example of one.



Regular dry firing shouldn't cause any problems but check the pin for signs of damage and you'll be fine. If for some reason the pin either breaks of is damaged to the point of allowing the firing pin to strike the chamber lip, all is not lost, just buy a 22 chamber iron and press out the dent. Brownells or Midway carry these tools.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

I try to dry fire about 10 minutes every day that I don't go to the range. So when I get home from a range trip I usually take the firing pin out, same feel without the possibility of damaged parts, and it's not like I use my .22 for self defense. I'm pretty sure it doesn't hurt the bolt or hammer any more than when you leave it in, haven't noticed any visible damage anyway. I guess I'll know pretty soon if taking it out is a bad idea

I've seen no ill effects from taking the firing pin out of the pistol and I've dry fired mine thousands of times.

R,
Bullseye

Thanks,
I've never looked at the pin, so I guess I'll have to get/borrow a punch and check it out.

And as long as I'm doing that, I think I'll just remove the firing pin. Better safe than sorry eh?

Is there any "special" about that firing pin stop pin? probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have an extra one on hand, so you don't have to wait around if you ever have to replace it.

Just wondering if I need to purchase from Ruger or just a standard pin would work.

If yours has the roll pin installed then it would be better to get one from Ruger. The solid pin is 1/8" tool steel. Sometimes I even use 1/8" drill bit shanks to replace them.

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye wrote:If yours has the roll pin installed then it would be better to get one from Ruger. The solid pin is 1/8" tool steel. Sometimes I even use 1/8" drill bit shanks to replace them.

Do you have to peen your solid pin to keep it in place ? [My MKIII has a spring/roll pin.] Does the firing pin slot tend to elongate from excessive dry firing causing further problems ?

tom234 wrote:Do you have to peen your solid pin to keep it in place ? [My MKIII has a spring/roll pin.] Does the firing pin slot tend to elongate from excessive dry firing causing further problems ?

I don't think you need to peen it. The pressure from the rebound support on the firing pin is enough to keep the firing pin stop in place while the bolt is outside the receiver (still always check to make sure it's in before reassembly). As long as you cut the rod the correct length it does not have room to walk anywhere while the bolt is in the receiver, so i think your good there too.

As far as the firing pin slot elongating from excessive dry firing, I don't think it's very possible. I think you'd go through many firing pin stops, and your main spring housing would probably be worn out before you could get that to happen. I haven't seen any real old Mk series bolt, so I'm sure someone else here should be able to give you a more definitive answer.

I peen the solid factory pins to keep them in, but you can't peen a drill bit shank - they're too hard. I just ensure that it's in place each time I take the bolt out and reinstall it.

Since you have the roll pin, you shouldn't be as concerned about the pin denting, they're pretty hard. They went with those to prevent the kind of damage I was describing earlier. That plus they stay in place better and don't fall out when you turn the bolt over.

The firing pins are very hard too. I haven't encountered any that have elongated from dry firing, even on the pistols where the solid pin stops were damaged.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

I always heard not to dry fire a 1022. Later as I became more familiar with them I realized it would NOT hurt it.
However I know some rimfires can be damaged so to error on the side of caution I use these guys.
I hope they're doin' the job!

SD

HAH! I knew somebody else had tried it. Fits pretty good eh? I use the Red ones though. they seem to hold up to more strikes than the yellow for me, and either way they last tons longer than the cheapy plastic snap caps do. Good to see I'm not alone with my wandering mind. Every time I go to the hardware store I end up with stuff for weird uses. LOL

That looks like a real good idea - thanks guys!

R,
Bullseye

That's a pretty good idea, I'll pick up some next time I'm at the hardware store.

Beats taking the firing pin out and replacing it all the time.

See? There's always something new to learn.