Mew Mark III, questions...

[MicroGuy]

I had the Mark III 22/44, but that gun was a real lemon as I detailed elsewhere.

I got the gun shop to upgrade me to the Mark III Hunter (stainless). I love this gun, it just feels so much better. The 22/45 would have been good, but all around, the Hunter is just better. IMHO.

Anyway.....

First question is since this gun is new, and the last one had all this shipping "grease" on it that was really sticky.

So, question one, is how far should I strip it to clean it the first time??

I got the Bushnell Trophy RD scope to go with it also. In their documentation, they said that any major "adjustments" should be done by using shims and not by using the windage adjustments. OK.

How would you shim it?? I can see how you might shim it up or down, but left to right??

And how much "windage ajustment" is too much??

When I first put it on the 22/45, it was WAY off. I haven't looked at this one yet.

And has anybody noticed that the rear sight doesn't seem to have much adjustment for closer range??

Both guns, the rear sight was screwed all the way down for say, 15 yards.

I noticed on the 22/45, when I started having a problem with the bolt sticking, I tried to remove the sight and took the adjustment screw all the way out, but when I put it back, I had two different adjustments.

The first time, screwed all the way down, I couldn't even get it close at 15 yards. Took it out and screwed it back in again, and got it back (about) to where it was, but still screwed all the way down.

So that sort of bothers me.

One other question, does anybody have a good way to make the Busnell Trophy RD scope easier to remove and put back on?? I don't like having to use an Allen wrench.

But I love this gun. Can't wait to get it out there and play with it, but gotta do the locktite thing.....

Thanks in advance for everybody's help.

[toyfj40]

Mark III Hunter (stainless).
this gun is new, and the last one had all this shipping "grease" on it that was really sticky.
how far should I strip it to clean it the first time??

The Standard-Field-Strip should be plenty...
Use plenty of Powder-Solvent and Qtips in/around the bolt and receiver.
Run a soft-patch thru the bore a few times.
The FiringPin comes out really easy... just remove the CrossPin with a toothpick,
and lift the firingpin... TAKE CARE with the orientation of the little
spring+tang that ride under-the-FiringPin... clean-out the trough
for the FiringPin and lube-it-up as you re-assemble...

the metal-to-metal surfaces need some time (2-3-4? bricks of std-ammo)
to begin to "mate to each other"... and a clean/ inspect/ reLube
each 500+ rounds to get familiar with how/ where it gets dirty...

I have my best luck with CCI & Federal ammo to burn clean.
Good Luck... let us know what happens...

[MicroGuy]

Thanks,
I like that CCI because it was about the only ammo that would feed in that older gun. (mostly the bullet shape).

The only thing is the stuff I was purchasing was a bit more expensive than the bulk Winchesters I was (hoping to) use.

Need to locate a good supplier of inexpensive, but good ammo.

But like anything else, I think generally, you're going to get what you pay for.

Thanks for the input.

[Bullseye]

Shimming left or right is actually quite easy. You just add the shim stock directly to the Weaver rail under the hold down clamps of the rings. Just add it to one side to move the impacts in the opposite direction. I use stainless shim stock but anything metal will do.

Are you planning to do a lot of shooting at 15 yards? What are you using as the point of aim, 6 o'clock or center hold? Once the sight is bottomed out then removing material off of the top of the sight is the way to bring up the impact point on a standard post front sight. Are you using a regular or a Hi-vis style sight?

My Rugers like the Federal bulk ammo found at Walmart for $9.98 per 550 rounds. They also like the Win Dynapoints but the cost of those are significantly more than the Feds.

Make sure before you locktite the front sight that you degrease the hole for the hold-down screw. There will be lots of oily preservative down in that screw hole. Clean it out good, degrease that and the screw, apply the sealant and then let it cure.

R,
Bullseye

[MicroGuy]

Don't know why I didn't think of shimming it like that, I guess I was concentrating on the scope rings or something. Duh....


I really don't know where I'll do most of my shooting, mostly short range for now until I get some glasses, but either way it will change a bit I suppose.

I'm not sure I know what you mean by aim point.

To adjust that sight by taking material off, you'd have to remove quite a bit to get another click out of it, I think.

Right now, I'm using the standard hi-viz sights that came with it for close range, they're right on the money.m It's probably not really an issue, I guess bottomed out like that is going to be about the closest "aim range" anyway. Anything closer and you'll be pretty much "point and shoot"

i just expected a bit more play is all.

I was using the Winchester Dynapoint, but they seemed to jam quite a bit in that Demon gun. But I just found a box of Federal at Wally-Mart, so I'm going to give them a try and see. That gives me a pretty rounded supply of ammo for now.

The front sight was pretty tight, so I just left it as is, if it comes loose, no biggie. But the scope mount, I did degrease the holes, but danged if I didn't forget to degrease the screws!!!

So it will probably come out and then I'll have to clean it all out and start over. Oh well, such is the joy of a new toy, you're thinking about playing, and forget to do stuff.

[toyfj40]

I'm not sure I know what you mean by aim point.

To adjust that sight by taking material off, you'd have to remove quite a bit to get another click out of it, I think.

'aim point' is the place you are looking at and hoping to hit... ie. 'bulls eye'

"taking material off" means with emery-cloth, not a grinder...
and only AFTER you are certain that the Sight/ RDot/ Scope
is going to be your permanent-device for that firearm...
as the instructions for "putting material ON" are difficult and expensive...
(but replacing a front sight is possible to buy and install)...

'MOA' is "Minute of Angle" or "Minute of Arc"...
ie 360 degrees in a circle, 60-minutes in each degree...
the typical Rifle scope will have 1/4-MOA 'click' adjustments...
which roughly translates to 1/4-inch at 100yards...
with a scope...
think of the Geometry/"Trigger-nometry" of a sight-radius
(distance from your Rear to Front sight... 6-inches perhaps)
and project that Line-of-Sight out to 25yards... 50yards... 100yards
THEN tweak the Line-of-Sight just a smidgeon... and project it...
It does NOT TAKE much alteration of a Sight-Radius to make a
difference out at the 'Aim Point'...

http://www.abousainc.com/SightIn.htm
http://www.tnoutdoorsmen.com/zero.htm
http://www.ocshooters.com/Hand/buyingyourfirstgun.htm

the Original is no longer posted where I found it... try this...
http://toyfj40.freeshell.org/GunPix/MathAim.html

some of these links may be useful, too...
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31

[Bullseye]

Here's a link from this forum on sight picture and basically point of aim.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3

R,
Bullseye

[MicroGuy]

Thanks,
I'll spend some time on those links.

I just wasn't familiar with the terms mostly.

But for the most part, my aim is going to be off mostly because I can't judge distance and stuff.

So, technically, I can understand what MOA is, but my brain can't process the it enough to use. I can't do anything with art, music, time or stuff like that.

Logic, I understand, art, I can't do. It's weird, I'm really left (or right, I forget which) brain dominant.

I can't look at anything and say "oh, that's 15 yards", or a wall and say "OK, you need 6 gallons of paint for that". That part of my brain just doesn't work well.

So, I know what a MOA is, but I can't look at anything and say "well, that would be 3 MOA adjustment there..."

I know, it's weird, but I can design a computer from the ground up, that stuff I know well.

But anyway, thanks for the answers, and I'll check out those sites.

[toyfj40]

So, I know what a MOA is, but I can't look at
anything and say "well, that would be 3 MOA adjustment there..."

the targets I typically use have 1-inch bands/rings,
so if I can view the bullet-hole (thru the Spotting Scope or Rifle Scope),
I can just use the BandWidth (no pun intended on your dataline) as a
"ruler" to know I am 1-inch hi/lo/rt/lt ...
Then, if at 100yd I can use 4x 1/4-MoA 'clicks' to adjust for an inch
or, if at 50yd I can use 8x 1/4-MoA 'clicks' to adjust for an inch
or, if at 25yd I can use 16x 1/4-MoA 'clicks' to adjust for an inch

because: 1 MoA is 1" at 100yds
so... 1 MoA is 0.50" at 50 yds
and.. 1 MoA is 0.25" at 25 yds...

did I get this right ?
or you can use some 'Dead Reconing' sight adjustment...
IF you shoot "high"... then adjust the sights...
if the next shot is high-ER... you adjusted the wrong way...

[MicroGuy]

Ah, now that I can use!

I didn't know they were one inch bands (obviously....)

Now, if I can just stop the wobble or shaking a bit, then I can adjust it. At least I can get close.

[Bullseye]

The more you practice your hold, the more that wobble will disappear as muscle stamina builds up. You can also do some extra exercises to build up strength with a one or two pound weight and arm extensions. I also use a wrist roller.

R,
Bullseye

[MicroGuy]

Actually, after thinking about it, I can use the adjustments with a target, but like out in the field, it doesn't do me any good. Same problem.

I used to work out 3/4/5 times a week. I weighed in at a nice 157'. Went in the hospital and came out a week later 21 pounds lighter. And then came the back operations...

So I fell out of shape pretty badly.

I got some stuff I'm going to start working out with again, and hopefully keep my back out of it.

One of 'em is also a wrist exerciser. Looks like something from the show Star Trek or something. Works good though. It might be more for the forearm though.

But one of those roller things would be good to have. Just going to have to take time again....