Reamer on Model 41

[Agent_Smith]

I bought a Clymer Bentz match reamer, some Do-Drill drilling oil and a Starrett hand tap wrench.

I'm almost ready to put my Model 41 barrel in a vise and ream the chamber.

Question:

1) How far in do you go? I read elsewhere that you should stop just before you get to the shoulder of the reamer, which I take to mean the spot where the cutting surface abruptly becomes much wider. Is this correct?

2) Will I need to polish the chamber after reaming? If so, what should I use.

Any other tips on reaming a Model 41 barrel?

Thanks
AS

[Bullseye]

Before I answer these questions, what are the issues you're having with your 41 that are causing you consider reaming the chamber?

Is the reamer tool new or used?

Is the barrel/chamber damaged or pitted?

R,
Bullseye

[Agent_Smith]

I have had long-standing issues with FTEs. Probably once every 40 rounds or so. I have tried many remedies with the pistol and magazines but can't get the pistol to be more reliable.

I bought the reamer new recently. The barrel has no damage or pitting.

Thanks,

AS

[Bullseye]

Well that clears up any questions I had concerning the reamer and pistol. What you will find is your not really reaming out the chamber as much as you're just chasing it out with the reamer cutter. Don't push hard on the reamer, gentle pressure and gentle speed. You won't get a lot of chips from this process. But you do need to use a lot of tapping lubricant and clean out the cutter every few turns, and remember to only turn the reamer in the cutting direction - Never turn it against the flutes!

All you want to do is cut down into the chamber far enough to clean up the breech end. Typically this is the part that causes the FTEs as the breech end gets pounded by the slide and peens over the mild steel barrel. When you look at your .22 Match Bentz reamer, you will see a flat edged shoulder and that is the absolute stopping point. Any farther than that and you will be cutting the breech face and changing your cartridge rim head spacing. Truly don't go that far. Only cut down about 3/4 of the way into the chamber the first time with the reamer. Clean out the chamber and barrel completely and then go out and shoot it for a function test. More than likely you will have solved your FTE problem without any chance of pushing the reamer down too far and cutting into the rifling of the barrel.

R,
Bullseye

[Agent_Smith]

Thanks. I will let you know how it goes.

[Agent_Smith]

It turns out that the top strap on the barrel does not leave enough space for me to use the tap wrench that I bought for the Clymer reamer.

Any suggestions for which model of tap wrench I can use for this application?

Thanks
GS

[Bullseye]

I use a Starrett "T" Type for this kind of application. http://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/precision/tapwrenches/


R,
Bullseye