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Looking for advice.
I recently bought a Mark 3 Hunter and am interested in owning an older Ruger just because...
I stopped by my local range today to pick up a Hogue grip from my Hunter and they just took in a Mark 1 with original box.
I don't know much about these guns but it has a tappered (lugger looking) barrel about 6" long.
Gun looks clean with no wear on the feed ramp into the chamber and feels tight but I don't really know what to look for other then that.
Please advise.
The guy I know at the store says it looks like it was never shot.
They are asking $200 for it.
If you guys think it's worth picking up I have to move on it fast or it will go I would imagine.
What's your thoughts????

I'd venture to say the price is "fair".
more specifically, there is the "original" 'RST-6' pistol,
then a more Target-shooter sights/barrel is the 'Mark-I'
(is this right "BE" ?)

Depending on its mfg-date, it could be a Great-Deal,
given it's low-wear and Orig-box... if made in the 50s GRAB-IT,
if in the 60s... you could likely re-sell it easily...
if in the 70s... give some thought to a MK-2...

at the FtW show last weekend... there was a MK2-Target
(Luger-grip, Bull-Bbl...) asking $195+tax... making $210
It looked to be in "nice shape"... no orig-stuff...

just my opinion... but then I just like the MK2s,
I paid $125 in '79 for my RST-6.
good luck, let us know what you do...

tofj40,
I'm not sure what your saying by "There is the original RST-6 pistol.
Could you explain.
How can I check the year of manufactor?
I'm guessing serial.
But who could I contact with that info?

I just called the gun shop and they said the serial is 16-080-77.
Can you tell what year this gun is from that?

From the serial number posted the gun looks like it was made in 1980. Here's the link. http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/ ... ry-PI.html#

R,
Bullseye

I found that link Bullseye and did see that it was from 1980. Thanks for the link.
Are there any differances from an 80's model versus an earlier model?

Yes, the 1980 version is the later model with the A-100 frame. Any Mark I manufactured after 1971 has this frame. This frame has the same grip style as a Mark II, that is the screw holes are in the same position. You can also use the Mark II magazines without having to change the button over to the right side because the follower button track is on the left like the Mark II's button track. There are a few other minor difference between the earlier models but these are insignificant. A Mark I's bolt does not lock open after the last shot is fired. That was the major difference between the Mark I and II.

R,
Bullseye

It was $120 (not $125) that I paid.
I have the box (in fact, I have the brown-cardboard box that
the black/yellow box came in... )
It is labeled: Ruger RST-6
as in Ruger STandard 6-inch pistol.
My S/N is 16-*******
(posting firearm S/Ns on the internet are best done
( by X-ing out the last 3-4 digits)

the term Mark-I was given to a (early 50s) Target pistol
that had Adj-sights and a 6+7/8" barrel.

The Ruger-S/N page shows: "Standard & Mark-I"
which are the two 'models' I am mentioning.
(uh-oh... my S/N was made in '82, so I obviously did NOT get
it in '79... ask me again in a few years and see what I say

So, if you're "in the market" for an older Ruger,
this is one... but it is of the last made, just prior to the MK2.
It may be a lot-like mine... I put less than a brick thru mine
and put it up while life/career took some turns...
it's a keep-sake, has not appreciated as good as a SavingsBond
(just too D*** Many Rugers were/are made to be Rare )

If you're not denying the toddler his baby-formula to get this one,
go ahead... the next one you see will cost $250+
Good Luck.

Ah, this brings back some memories! My first autoloader was a Ruger Mark I Standard model that I bought in (I think) 1957. As I recall, I paid $37 for that little baby. I thought I would never learn to disassemble/reassemble that pistol but I finally did. I put thousands of rounds through it and finally traded it off for something else I had the hots for at the time and I don't even remember what. Trading it off wasn't the dumbest firearm deal I ever made; that distinction goes to selling a Winchester Model 42 .410 pump that one of my uncles had given to me. It still kind of makes me sick when I think about that.

Well I made the purchase.
I got it for $180.
Looking at it closer it is clean and it has the original box.
Should I go ahead a shoot it as much as I shoot any other gun or try to preserve it a little?
If I do shoot it, do they make VQ sears for it like the one I put in my Hunter Mark 3 model and should I replace it or keep it original?

$180 is a good price. I bought one 10 years ago for the same price and it too was in excellent condition with the original box and papers. I considered it a good buy back then so you can be pleased with the price you negotiated on that deal.

Why not post a picture of your new pistol? I'm sure we would all like to see your new baby.

There's no significant collector value on this model of pistol, there were too many made.

You can put a VQ Mark II sear in your pistol, the sears had the same part number between the models. I did it in my own Mark I's. The only difference I found was I could engage the safety when the bolt was closed and the hammer was down.

R,
Bullseye

I will hand it to Bullseye once again he come's up with the information that we patrons want to hear. I thank you.

I will try to send a photo shortly.
I'm still waiting for the gun to be shipped to my FFL, I bought it across state lines.
By the way thanks for your help.
I have a question about tear down.
I downloaded the manual from Ruger and was curiuos if your stickies from the markiii site represent the Mark l?
It seems as though most everything is Mark ll and lll related.
Are they the same for the Mark 1 as the Mark ll?
Mainly sear replacement, quick trigger adjustment etc.

Another difference between the 1 and 2 is that the 1 has a maximum capacity of 9 rounds compared to the 10 rounds of a 2. I have both.

Gabby,

The Mark I has almost the same components as the later versions. There are a few minor differences. Most of those deal with the lack of a bolt hold open feature in the Mark I series pistol. The Mark II was an upgrade to the basic design and the frame was modified to accommodate these extra components. The Mark III pistol series still used the same frame and added a few more components to bring it up to the standards of today. By using the same dimensions in these pistols, Ruger kept production costs low and did not have to redesign new production equipment everytime they changed the model.

On to the Mark I disassembly. The is only a few minor differences between the take-down of this pistol from the later ones. In the trigger there is a spring clip holding the trigger pivot pin in place. These are sometimes referred to as "E" clips. It is located on the left hand side of the pin and must be removed before the pin can be removed. In the below picture the clip is labeled A34-1 (in the red circle)



The triggers are also slightly different between the Mark I and Mark II pistols. The main difference between these triggers is a relief cut on the top of the trigger, making the disconnector pin area narrower, providing clearance for the trigger return plunger on the Mark II and later models. Don't despair, the Mark I can accept the newer triggers for the Mark II because the other dimensions are identical. You can install a Clark or Marvel in your Mark I pistol. Here's a picture of the two for comparison.



The other difference is in the hammer pivot pin. This is number A26-5 (the other red circled item in the drawing). The Mark I's hammer pivot pin is the same on both ends. There's no large head on the left side of the pin like the Mark II and III have in the later model pistols.

The thumb safety lever is different on a Mark I because it is used to hold the bolt open when manually engaged. In the above breakdown drawing the Thumb safety is labled "ASC".

I made some magazine follower inserts to hold the bolt open after the last shot is fired. The modified followers work similar a hold open feature, but then the bolt must be retracted and locked open to manually to remove the magazine for reloading. Here's a picture of a modified magazine and the special follower. Basically, there's metal where the last round would sit and the bolt catches on it when the last cartridge is expended from the magazine. The only drawback is the magazine holds one less cartridge with this modified follower. No problem for Bullseye shooting since you only load 5 rounds at a time.



These are especially helpful if you want to target shoot, like in Bullseye Competition. I really disliked having the bolt close on an empty chamber in a timed/rapid fire string and not being sure if I saved a round or not. Having the bolt hold partially open gave me a lot of piece of mind that I fired my string completely. I don't count shots, I simply concentrate on sights and squeeze. When the pistol's empty, then I break my concentration, not before.

Magazines for the Mark I were the M9, these a fixed base and held nine cartridges. All Mark I's will accept the M10 magazines as long as the follower button is on the proper side for the version of Mark I you have. All Mark I and Standard pistols from 1949-1971 have the A54 frame with the follower button track location for the right side of the magazine. All models after 1971 have the A100 frame with follower button track on the left side like the Mark II's and III's have in them. The external dimensions of the M9 and M10 magazines are identical. The capacity is determined by the length of the follower and the internal clearance of the magazine body.

The good news is most parts for the Mark II will fit in the Mark I. The disassembly is virtually the same. You can install the target triggers, hammers, and sears from VQ if you choose.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye