Update:
Here is my experience putting the VQ stuff on and taking out the loaded chamber indicator. There are several threads with this info, but I hope a new person will glean something useful from this.
I put in the bolt kit and the trigger kit and removed the internal LCI leaving the external plastic plug in place. I thought the trigger kit would get rid of the mag safety, but nooooo...c'mon Volquartsen....include this in the kit. I now know that a bushing from VQ is needed, and put one on order.
Another option is to get the kit for a MK II and dump the MK III internals altogether. This would have been my preferred method, but I already bought the MK III kit, so bushing it is for me.
I used many online sources as well as the written directions which were printed on a postage stamp
Before getting started, take a few minutes to learn and know by heart the nomenclature of every part on/in the pistol. It makes comprehending the instructions so much easier. I know for some, that is like saying "breath in order not to pass out" but this is my first "gunsmithing" project and while I am an experienced shooter, I'd never seen the innards of a gun beyond the simple field strip for cleaning, and knowing the nomenclature for each piece before hand would have save a lot of aggravation.
Trigger Group Installation Hints:
-When disassembling/assembling the hammer group, use a drift punch to hold it together while you use your three hands to put the pin in and out. Use drift punches everywhere and not just anything handy like did at first.
-On the safety there is a small spring and detent pin, the pin is really small, and is easily dislodged. I put a dab of petroleum jelly inside the orifice to "stick" the pin in the detent while I maneuvered the sear and safety into their positions.
-Once the safety is put back in, engage the sear into the safety notch and place the safety switch up into the "S" position.
-If reinstalling the mag safety (like I had to until my bushing comes in) I discovered a potentially dangerous mistake that can be made. Several times, I incorrectly installed the mag safety spring. I placed the lower kinked portion in the magazine well instead of behind the frame in the back of the magazine well. What I found was that when I inserted a magazine for the function check the magazine going home with the spring in the mag well let the sear release without pulling the trigger
I don't know for certain if a full magazine would have discharged or if it would fire at all, but the function check in this condition let the hammer freely operate without pulling the trigger. At any rate
USE EXTREME CAUTION AND INSTALL THE MAGAZINE SAFETY SPRING CORRECTLY
The enlarged bolt release button might interfere with a two handed, thumb-on-thumb grip. This is the grip I use, and I need to go to the range and see if the recoil takes skin off my thumb knuckle.
The bolt kit went in easily.
The loaded chamber indicator came apart easily, but beware: There are two tiny springs inside that are lurking to launch across your bench! I removed the metal piece that activates the indicator and put the plastic cover back in. Someone was making a nice stainless plug that fit nice and tight that I would like to track down.
After properly reassembling the pistol
I am very pleased with the trigger pull. The pre-travel and over-travel screws were easy to adjust but be sure to put locktite on them, they are loose.
Unfortunately, the trigger pull and release is so crisp and sweet now, some obvious design flaws of an inexpensive pistol are now present. The trigger has a lot of lateral slop, and a moderate amount of fore/aft slop that the pre-travel screw cannot fully cure. Setting the fore-aft slop to a sweet dialed-in feel makes the trigger reset unreliably. To assure reliable trigger resetting, you have to back out the pre-travel screw until you get the reset right. On my pistol, that results in more fore-aft slop than I would like.
Regarding the lateral slop, from what I can figure it's the result of the convoluted design and the stamped steel construction. Maybe that can be shimmed up somehow....
The Voquartsen parts are far superior to the stock Ruger parts, you definitely get what you pay for. Better instructions and video are a must. The VQ video is a small sized view, about 2x2, pretty hard on my 44 yo eyes.... Also, the narrator/demonstrator must have been race car drivers because they demo'd the whole thing in record speed. Holy cow man, slow down a little!
Overall a great learning experience on a gun that if I were to completely ruin the thing it would be no catastrophic loss to my wallet.
