What to oil when you detail strip.

[hotroderx]

Right now I have it stripped down all the way - the sear which is still installed. I ask because I am noticing some wear on hammer and some of the other internals such as the safeties look like there getting wear spots. Maybe nothing but just wanted to check. First time I detail striped the pistol I did notice black gunk on some of the internals which I cleaned off. I figured it was anti seize from Ruger since they don't know how long the pistols will sit. If parts of the gun do need a dash of lube can I use Rem Oil? I know I can get it locally pretty cheap.


Thanks guys and sorry about all the questions.

As per my other thread, I did lock-tight the screws that where giving me trouble figured I give them 24hrs to cure before I put the gun back together.

[Bullseye]

Rem oil is fine. Use in sparingly or you will cause residue to build up internally in your pistol. I apply a few drops to a clean rag and wipe the parts down with it. A Q-Tip with a dab of light oil works well for parts in hard to reach locations. Take care when inside your frame to remove all the old Ruger shipping preservative. It looks like rust colored oil but it will thicken over time and cause problems.

You should have solved your adjustment screw walking problems if you degreased the trigger holes prior to applying the threadlock sealant. If you didn't, then that doesn't mean the sealant won't take hold but you could have another issue with the screws walking.

R,
Bullseye

[hotroderx]

Rem oil is fine. Use in sparingly or you will cause residue to build up internally in your pistol. I apply a few drops to a clean rag and wipe the parts down with it. A Q-Tip with a dab of light oil works well for parts in hard to reach locations. Take care when inside your frame to remove all the old Ruger shipping preservative. It looks like rust colored oil but it will thicken over time and cause problems.

You should have solved your adjustment screw walking problems if you degreased the trigger holes prior to applying the threadlock sealant. If you didn't, then that doesn't mean the sealant won't take hold but you could have another issue with the screws walking.

R,
Bullseye

Thanks Bullseye I used a Q-Tip and only lubed parts with some ware on them. I think the goo I was talking about was the Rust colored oil you where talking about cause parts of it had a coppery shine to it. Stuff was nasty It was really gritty I know my pistol ran 100x's better with out out of there just was not sure if its like my Glock meant to run bone dry.

[Bullseye]

It doesn't need to be bone dry but any excess lubricant will attract grit and residue. Rimfire cartridges are notoriously dirty with lots of blowback. All that residue gets stuck in the lubricant and creates a gummy, gritty slurry.

R,
Bullseye

[Bob & Wife]

Rem oil is fine. Use in sparingly or you will cause residue to build up internally in your pistol. I apply a few drops to a clean rag and wipe the parts down with it. A Q-Tip with a dab of light oil works well for parts in hard to reach locations. Take care when inside your frame to remove all the old Ruger shipping preservative. It looks like rust colored oil but it will thicken over time and cause problems.

You should have solved your adjustment screw walking problems if you degreased the trigger holes prior to applying the threadlock sealant. If you didn't, then that doesn't mean the sealant won't take hold but you could have another issue with the screws walking.

R,
Bullseye

Thanks Bullseye I used a Q-Tip and only lubed parts with some ware on them. I think the goo I was talking about was the Rust colored oil you where talking about cause parts of it had a coppery shine to it. Stuff was nasty It was really gritty I know my pistol ran 100x's better with out out of there just was not sure if its like my Glock meant to run bone dry.

I clean my pistols (ALL) the way do it during matches. Spray with brake clean or carb clean from any auto place. I lube with a spray can of DRY LUBE. Just spray it and let it air dry (leaving behind only a dry lube). What ever way you do it, keep oil away from ammo, especially 22rl. Oil will contaminate and cause miss fires ftf. I do oil the bore kind of heavy between uses. Making sure to run a couple of DRY patches threw before using again.
I also like to put part of a cotton ball into the chamber and dry fire (just a small amount of cotton). Keep reducing the cotton until your gun will fire this way. This will clean the firing pin, leaving the cotton black with old gunpowder. Move the cotton after each firing, until it remains clean (without a black dot of dirty gunpowder). Hope this helps you

[Bullseye]

Just be sure to get all the cotton out of the chamber area before firing live rounds or the results will be very nasty to the gun.

R,
Bullseye