Difficult disassembly/assembly

DakotaD · Post by **DakotaD** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:11 pm

New to this site and I've found it extremely helpful. I just received my Mark III and love it. I have been having some difficulty however disassembling and assembling. I follow the directions and have worn out my monitor watching you tube videos. The process isn't the issue.
My problem the weapon is so tight I feel I am having to use the mallet too much with too much force. I can never remove or replace the receiver without the mallet and have to hammer out and in the locking mech.
How long or how many times does it normally take to loosen it up?
The weapon is blued and fluted, 4.5" with formed (TALO) grips.
Just wondering how long I'm going to have to keep hammering it apart and back together. It's my 3rd handgun and by far, the most difficult to work with. I do love it though.
Thanks for any help.
DakotaD

Post by **Bullseye** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:54 am

Welcome to GunTalk-Online!

New pistols are very tight. Each loosens over time but there is not a set time when a pistol loosens up. The amount of wear necessary to loosen the fit depends on how much the pistol is disassembled and reassembled. Tighter is better, and as long as you're using a non-marring hammer/mallet how much you use it is of no consequence. Many folks are amazed at how much force is necessary to disassemble their Ruger 22 Auto pistol. Don't worry, it's a machine, very durable, and can take the extra effort without any harm. I personally have one of the first Mark III pistols (bought back in 2005) and I still have to use a hammer to break it down. Granted, it doesn't take as much force as it used to but I still have to coax it together and apart with the mallet. You will see the bolt stop pin loosen up first. Some of these are downright difficult to remove. Partially this is due to minor receiver-to-frame misalignment and a pronounced nub on the back of the recoil spring assembly. Be sure to test the receiver alignment from the top of the receiver tube prior to inserting the mainspring up through the frame well. This will make the insertion of the mainspring housing go much smoother as the assembler knows the two parts are aligned and a little force is all that's necessary to make everything fit properly.

R,
Bullseye

bearandoldman · Post by **bearandoldman** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:02 am

Well stated Bullseye! My usual answer to people it " it ain't fine crystal, it's a gun and it will not break that easy"
Look at the guns the old "Cowboys" and the guys in the battlefields with mud, snow and sand.

99/100 · Post by **99/100** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:07 am

Welcome! I got mine about a year ago and also found re-assembly a challenge. One thing I did was the magazine disconnector mod (found here) that took some extra steps out of it. Others were I didn't strip it every time I shot (tough for retired military guy), the other was looking at where it was making contact and using the eezox my brother gave me there and checking the alignment of everything carefully. I still have to push hard with my thumb to get the bolt stop pin in but no tools.

ruger22 · Post by **ruger22** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:55 am

Mine is not so hard with a dab of lithium (or whatever type) grease in the frame hook, and in the hole on the receiver. Still takes a sharp tap with a small rubber hammer, and I hope it always does. The grease was intended to prevent wear and keep the connection tight. I had not thought about it easing disassembly/assembly until the next time I took it apart.

Baldy · Post by **Baldy** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 12:02 pm

Welcome from the swamp. Take it out and run about a 1,000rds through it and it will be a little easier to work with. Don't forget a drop of oil on the bolt about every 2 or 300rds. Good luck.

blue68f100 · Post by **blue68f100** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:59 pm

DakotaD, Welcome to GuntalkOnline.

These can be hard but like all have said they will loosen up. I find a "Dead Blow hammer" works best on these tight guns. I do use Syn grease on the lug to help it glide easier. For assembly I put the muzzel end down on the floor/table edge (with rag protecting it) then just grip the lower and push down with your weight. Mine will make a distanct sound when it bottoms out.

Good Luck and Enjoy your gun, they are a blast to shoot.

DakotaD · Post by **DakotaD** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:38 pm

Thanks. I feel better knowing mine isn't the only one. I appreciate all the info, especially aligning the bold stop from the top first. that seems to help.
I've discovered that you can push the receiver in too far and now am watching that.
Thanks again for a great forum.
DakotaD

greener · Post by **greener** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:48 am

Welcome to the forum. Look at the bright side. If you have a bad day at the range, you know you can take the pistol home and whale on it with a hammer. Just that threat has made mine shoot better. :lol

I've had a MKIII Hunter for about 5 years and have bought a used MKII GC about 4 years ago. Both still have a relatively tight receiver-grip frame fit and require some assistance to separate. Not a big deal if you have a rubber mallet or some padded surface nearby.

Post by **Bullseye** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:03 am

Not only can the receiver be too far forward or back but on some pistols the receiver can be slightly off sideways. Using the bolt stop from the top eliminates any alignment errors which tend to frustrate owners almost as much as getting the hammer strut on the mainspring properly. You should have many years of enjoyment from your new pistol.

R,
Bullseye

ronn · Post by **ronn** » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:43 pm

Had a new Mark II that absolutely would not go together. It "sprung" when taking it apart. Sent it to Ruger who said there was nothing wrong with it, just needed hammered. Then I spoke with the guy who worked on it and he said he had to ream the bolt and frame to make it fit. A factory misfit, done at no charge.