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troubles with my MKII
Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 2:18 pm
by cccan
I recently installed a Clark bushing and pin on my MKII, for the most part it works fine but every now and then the trigger pull increases to almost double...it will do this for maybe one or two rounds then will go back to normal(about a 3lb pull)..the ruger has a volquartsen trigger and sear with a stock hammer...any idea as to what is happening?....thanks Cam
Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:12 pm
by Bullseye
I had to give this one some thought. The only thing I can come up with is the sear or hammer may be migrating over on the pins and causing excessive drag between the sear face and the head of the bushing. Check to see if there's any side-to-side play in the hammer assembly on the pivot pin. If there is, you may have to install a small thin shim washer on the left side of the hammer to keep it from walking to the left and creating the drag.
R,
Bullseye
Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:01 pm
by blue68f100
Is the trigger going full forward when it acts up?
A few things to check.
I would check to make sure none of the pins are shifting in the frame.
Maybe back-off the pre travel on the trigger about 1/8-1/4 turn. As a gun heats up the setting will change slightly.
Check to see if the safety is walking down and hanging on the sear. The next time it feels off, cycle the safety and see if it straightens up. VQ has had some sears that are tall, and out of spec. If this is the case a quick call to VQ will get you a replacement.
Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 6:31 pm
by cccan
well I checked to see if the hammer is shifting ..it does not appear to have anymore play than my MKIII, I did back off the pre travel and over travel...the sear clears the safety.. I put the gun back together with out the barrel on to see if there was sometihing causing the drag. if the hammer is pushed down against the rear lug I can re-create the problem...but when the gun is completely assembled with the barrel I doubt that the hammer is allowed to travel that far...I'll take it out and try it again tomorrow
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:48 pm
by cccan
is there any way that the main spring can become weak and allow the hammer to over-cock?
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:41 pm
by Bullseye
The hammer can go practically horizontal but then it returns to the hook point on the face which is about 25°. Unless your hammer is hanging up on something it shouldn't stay over cocked. And even if it was over cocked then what is the sear releasing? It surely isn't the hammer hook because it would be totally off of the sear face.
R,
Bullseye
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:18 pm
by cccan
this one has me stumped
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:22 pm
by Bullseye
Try taking the receiver off again and over cock it. Then inspect it closely to see what the hammer is hanging up on. Could be the bottom of the hammer.
R,
Bullseye
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:50 am
by blue68f100
Is the disconnector moving freely? Binding against the frame, Is it flat and not warped? Need to remove it to know for sure. If you install it with out the hammer and sear in place it should be away from the frame just a tad. I have seen many that had a warp to them and needed to be flattened.
Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:16 pm
by cccan
well I gave the gun a good cleaning, checked the disconnector to make sure it was not bent or hanging up, polished all mating surfaces...everything checks...I'm hoping it was just dirty..I did put about 500 rounds through it with out cleaning...off to the range tomorrow...thanks Guys
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 2:15 am
by Georgezilla
Hope it functions well tomorrow.
I doubt what ever problem your pistol has (or had) is caused by 500 rounds without cleaning. Most Ruger .22 autos can go through well over 1,500 rounds before experiencing a failure. Though I suppose a piece of undetected grit could cause problems.
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:09 am
by Bullseye
After you cleaned it thoroughly did the hammer still hang up on you? If it did another place to inspect is the hammer strut. If there's excessive friction on the strut, between it and the mainspring housing, it can cause hang-ups. Look for excessive flash from stamping the metal strut. Also look for very shiny spots along the edges where the strut may be rubbing.
Unfortunately in your case this is one of those problems that has to be visually inspected to correct. There are several places where the problem can be caused and may be difficult to isolate via theoretical means. Trial and error methods are our only recourse.
R,
Bullseye
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:50 am
by cccan
I did look at the hammer strut...I polished the edges and tip..if anything I'll have the slickest mkII out there...I'm thinking dirty pistol or pre-set and over travel adjustment on the trigger was my problem..I'll let everyone know tomorrow...you guys should be my neighbors

...I would just drop the gun off in pieces and have you figure it out..thanks Cam
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:56 am
by Bullseye
cccan wrote:...you guys should be my neighbors

...I would just drop the gun off in pieces and have you figure it out..thanks Cam
That happens far to often for me already. I get lots of visitors with bagged firearms.
R,
Bullseye
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:35 pm
by Tbag
Bullseye wrote:cccan wrote:...you guys should be my neighbors

...I would just drop the gun off in pieces and have you figure it out..thanks Cam
That happens far to often for me already. I get lots of visitors with bagged firearms.
R,
Bullseye
Ha, you darn near got one of mine about two years ago, but no we had to figure it out! Many belated thanks.