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Hello, I have a MarkII compition target, can I just have a VQ target sear put in with out buying a adj trigger? The over travel is ok as it is, I just want to get the trigger pull down to 2lbs or so..A big thanks for your replies!

Yes you can. It's the most bang for the buck.

All the trigger does is bring the adj out so you do not have to pull the factory trigger.

While you have it torn down check to see how much side play you have in the hammer. If a lot (>1/8") you may want to install a Clark Bushing to tighten it up.

blue68f100 wrote:Yes you can. It's the most bang for the buck.

All the trigger does is bring the adj out so you do not have to pull the factory trigger.

While you have it torn down check to see how much side play you have in the hammer. If a lot (>1/8") you may want to install a Clark Bushing to tighten it up.

Thanks for your reply-off to get the sear

I put the Sear only in my Mark 3 and was very pleased. FYI - Volsquartsen
is selling "old stock" sears in their clearance section of the web site for about half of the usual price. You might want to install their extractor also if you have not done so yet.
Stew

Welcome to Guntalk-online!

Installing just a VQ sear is the easiest way to bring down the trigger pull to around 2lbs.

Installing a VQ trigger has two advantages one is to limit the overtravel, but your factory trigger has an adjustment for this already. The other is to limit total trigger travel with the addition of a pretravel screw. A pretravel screw takes out the extra forward movement that a Ruger 22 Auto has built in it. So you may want to consider adding a VQ trigger later if you find the movement of the factory trigger excessive.

You could also add your own pretravel screw if your handy with drilling and tapping the factory trigger. There is a sticky in the technical forum section on how to add a pretravel screw to a factory trigger http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=651

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye, is my memory correct in you or someone saying the VQ sear would also work in the Ruger standard 100 frame? I did replace the trigger, but at the time I did that, I thought that was all I could do. I also made a new slide for one of my mag.s and the hold-open after last shot works okay. My next one will be a little better, and I intend to find enough aluminum plate to remake the first one as well. TB

Yes the VQ sear will work in the A-100 frame. The only downside is you will be able to set the thumb safety on an empty (uncocked hammer) chamber - this is a feature that indicates if the hammer is cocked in the older Mark Is. The thumb safety will not activate on an uncocked hammer. I didn't see this as a problem as the safety operates regardless of hammer position in the later models.

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye wrote:Yes the VQ sear will work in the A-100 frame. The only downside is you will be able to set the thumb safety on an empty (uncocked hammer) chamber - this is a feature that indicates if the hammer is cocked in the older Mark Is. The thumb safety will not activate on an uncocked hammer. I didn't see this as a problem as the safety operates regardless of hammer position in the later models.

R,
Bullseye

I had a Vq shear put in, but now I feel a little tick 2 times before I reach the the last 1/16 ,then It fires . Not good , the trigger goes all the way back to fire , no room left to go ! Any Ideal on what when wrong???
Every thing else works ok, bolt release,ect.ect.

Was this one of the VQ sears that were for sale in the bargain bin?

R,
Bullseye

3leggeddog wrote:

Bullseye wrote:Yes the VQ sear will work in the A-100 frame. The only downside is you will be able to set the thumb safety on an empty (uncocked hammer) chamber - this is a feature that indicates if the hammer is cocked in the older Mark Is. The thumb safety will not activate on an uncocked hammer. I didn't see this as a problem as the safety operates regardless of hammer position in the later models.

R,
Bullseye

I had a Vq shear put in, but now I feel a little tick 2 times before I reach the the last 1/16 ,then It fires . Not good , the trigger goes all the way back to fire , no room left to go ! Any Ideal on what when wrong???
Every thing else works ok, bolt release,ect.ect.

Stock trigger? Sounds almost like an over adjusted VQ trigger.

Bullseye wrote:Was this one of the VQ sears that were for sale in the bargain bin?

R,
Bullseye

This was not a bargain bin sear, nor did I have a VQ adj. trigger put in . Ideals, ???????

Just want to let everyone know that the bargain bin sears work perfectly.
They are not rejects but are made by thier "old" manufacturing process.
I recently installed one in my Mark 3 and it works perfectly and cost only $12.
Stew

Some of the VQ bargain bin sears are out of specifications, not all. But those that are out of specifications cause the trigger to not travel far enough rearward for the sear face to fully clear the hammer body. Plus, the triggers that are in the bargain bin are those that VQ had in their stock, they did ship sears from those manufacturing lots to other suppliers. Most were recalled but there may still be some of these sears out with small suppliers. Here is a picture of a bargain bin sear that is out of specifications. (Notice the flash seam down the middle of the sear - it has been created under the old manufacturing process)



One of my customers provided me with some frames and sears to be installed and adjusted. One of the sears was from the bargain bin and was marked as such on the packaging. That particular sear was not in the tolerance range and could not be installed without modifying the trigger to accept that sear. I advised him that I could adjust his pistol to accept that sear but then I'd be tuning his frame to utilize that particular sear. He agreed that it would be better to use a sear that was within specifications instead.

I cannot say with certainty that this is the problem with this A100 framed pistol but the description sounds like it could be a possibility. If the pistol operated properly before the sear change, and the sear is the only difference in the overall configuration, then the sear is likely causing the problem. The tick you feel could be from the disconnector and the trigger plunger. Since the trigger is all the way at the end of its travel the plunger is being compressed fully into the trigger body and may be grabbing near the end of its travel.


R,
Bullseye

Guess I will change my recomend to "may work fine". Mine aparently is in spec. and gives me a good trigger at slightly over 2 lbs. Thanks Bullseye!
Stew

I'm not very happy with VQ, the sear I got from them didn't work correctly.
1ST I called their sale/ tec department, no one answers, so I left a voice message. a day an a half later I tried leaving a E-Mail with their customer Service, that was last Thursday. It seem their not interested in hearing from a small buyer. I just Mail the sear back to them , ask for a refund. They may charge me a restocking fee ! :
Is there any one else that I can deal with ,besides VQ ????