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We need some new chatter in this section because it's my favorite.

I have been spraying down my Ruger MK series with Break Free, letting it soak and blowing it out with an air hose. Dry it and rub in some gem oil and deal with the barrel normally. Every third use I detail strip and find it does a pretty good job.

Am I a bad man?

Also how many rounds will a Mark III barrel take before we start seeing end over end rounds?

Some of us are here, but have nothing much to say! I'm about to start a new thread, though.

I've got a couple of hundred thousand rounds through my old Mark I and the accuracy is still plenty acceptable.

I usually don't criticize someone else's cleaning routines because they usually work for their purposes. With rimfires it is important to not leave a heavy oily film on the internal components or unburned powder residue will accumulate quickly and gum up the action. Other than that, what works for you is great.

R,
Bullseye

Cleaning varies on every gun. My MKIII, I only clean every 1k rounds or if it starts having problems.

My neighbor has a MKII that he only runs a bore snake through and never detail strip the gun since he has owned it, He bought it new in 82-83. I shot it this weekend and the trigger was very very very heavy, 10+lbs. His was in need of detail cleaning, 25yrs on the gun and never apart till this weekend. The gun still functioned perfectly. He has only shot CCI SV through the gun till this weekend. I let him shoot my WW Expert22 Bulk pack. Shot with no problems. His recoil spring need to be replaced when compared to mine (MKIII). The extract is worn too. These are the only things that I found that needs to be replaced.

If your shooting ammo that burns clean they will go a long time.

A real testament to the old Ruger. I bet the trigger was getting a little stiff. TB

Little stiff is/was an under statement... >10lbs

It's like a MKIII trying to seat the magazine with the trigger.

A few years ago I was cleaning .22's every time I fired them. I've backed off quite a bit. Usually, I clean them when I think they are beginning to malfunction because of dirt. The cleaning frequency depends on ammo. Win Xpert HV seems to leave a gummy residue in the chamber that eventually affects extraction. It is more pronounced in my Buck Mark than my Rugers.

I almost never detail strip. I have hit the steel guns with gunscrubber to wash out the receivers.

I have had my used MKII since March and have a couple thousand rounds through it. I have been field strip cleaning pretty much every time I shoot. This thread got me to thinking maybe I should do a detail strip so I went to the 2245 maint page to see if I was up to it. A new hammer pivot is mentioned there.

I have a couple of questions. My pin is flush with frame, I assume that is the old pin by the pictures. What kind of damage am I exposed to by this pin and should I replace it with a new style pin?

While BE has done a great job on the detail strip, and I would be lost without it in certain situations, I think only a field stripping is necessary for my Mlll. A couple friends rarely even do a field strip ( I don't agree with this), and their gun shoots fine.
H

Nosmo_King wrote:I have had my used MKII since March and have a couple thousand rounds through it. I have been field strip cleaning pretty much every time I shoot. This thread got me to thinking maybe I should do a detail strip so I went to the 2245 maint page to see if I was up to it. A new hammer pivot is mentioned there.

I have a couple of questions. My pin is flush with frame, I assume that is the old pin by the pictures. What kind of damage am I exposed to by this pin and should I replace it with a new style pin?

I think this might be a MKIII 22/45 possible problem. I got the replacement pin for my MKIII but haven't done anything with the MKII pin. Some folks had the pivot pin move out of position, resulting in wearing the frame hole.

Hakaman wrote:While BE has done a great job on the detail strip, and I would be lost without it in certain situations, I think only a field stripping is necessary for my Mlll. A couple friends rarely even do a field strip ( I don't agree with this), and their gun shoots fine.
H

I think you can keep most of the gunk build up in the grip frame down to a tolerable level without detail stripping. I don't have any problems detail stripping a Ruger, but with my 10 thumbs I pretty much guarantee if I did it regularly I'd be a semi-regular Ruger parts customer replacing springs and pins that decided to dive into parts unknown under the work bench instead of falling six inches to the top of the bench.

....but with my 10 thumbs...

geeez, I thought I was the only one with 10 thumbs. When it comes to taking springs out, especially loaded ones, I would be better off working inside a sealed padded cell. At least the springs couldn't go to far.
h

Nosmo_King wrote: I have a couple of questions. My pin is flush with frame, I assume that is the old pin by the pictures. What kind of damage am I exposed to by this pin and should I replace it with a new style pin?

If you have the old pin it can walk from the left side of the frame toward the right and cause the left side pin boss to tear out.





This condition can happen even with the sear and hammer pivot pins installed and locked-in properly. The left side of the polymer frame is narrower than the older Mark II 22/45 and the tension of the mainspring causes the grip frame to be damaged. You should have the new pin with a head on it to prevent pin walking. If you don't, then contact Ruger and they will send you a new pin. Even if your frame has had some damage in the pin boss area the new pin will fix it. Because it cannot walk to the right the hammer stays in place as it should with the new pin.

R,
Bullseye