Having problems after VQ sear install: Ruger 22/45
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
Having problems after VQ sear install: Ruger 22/45
I was forwarded to this website for help with my Ruger 22/45. I just installed a VQ target sear and while function testing it I found that if I let the bolt slam home it would drop the hammer at the same time. It would do this using the bolt release or slingshoting method of dropping the bolt.
I have pulled it apart and put it back together a couple times with no luck. When I switched back to the factory sear I found that it started doing the same thing only less frequently. With the VQ sear it would do it 100% of the time, now with the factory sear it is doing it about 20% of the time.
Just for background on the pistol..... it is a MKIII 22/45 bought brand new about 6 weeks ago. I have done the magazine safety delete mod using two modified washers and also the slingshot mod with a spring. I also recently got a Paclite barrel/receiver for t. I am pretty confident that all the mods were done correctly but ya never know. Maybe someone here has run into the same problem.
Any ideas fellas??
I have pulled it apart and put it back together a couple times with no luck. When I switched back to the factory sear I found that it started doing the same thing only less frequently. With the VQ sear it would do it 100% of the time, now with the factory sear it is doing it about 20% of the time.
Just for background on the pistol..... it is a MKIII 22/45 bought brand new about 6 weeks ago. I have done the magazine safety delete mod using two modified washers and also the slingshot mod with a spring. I also recently got a Paclite barrel/receiver for t. I am pretty confident that all the mods were done correctly but ya never know. Maybe someone here has run into the same problem.
Any ideas fellas??
Welcome to Guntalk-Online!
Have you incorporated any other parts or polished any of the other surfaces, like the hammer's hook?
The first thing I would look at is the diameter of your washers. Is one of them partially blocking the sear from sitting completely on the hammer hook? Slamming the bolt and having he hammer follow typically says that there is an engagement issue with the dynamic components of your pistol. That means the hammer/sear engagement isn't right. The likeliness of the VQ sear causing the problem is reduced because you are experiencing the same problem with the factory sear.
Have you tried substituting the original magazine disconnector parts back into the pistol and checking it again? If the pistol functions normally then there is something not quite right with the shape of your washers.
R,
Bullseye
Have you incorporated any other parts or polished any of the other surfaces, like the hammer's hook?
The first thing I would look at is the diameter of your washers. Is one of them partially blocking the sear from sitting completely on the hammer hook? Slamming the bolt and having he hammer follow typically says that there is an engagement issue with the dynamic components of your pistol. That means the hammer/sear engagement isn't right. The likeliness of the VQ sear causing the problem is reduced because you are experiencing the same problem with the factory sear.
Have you tried substituting the original magazine disconnector parts back into the pistol and checking it again? If the pistol functions normally then there is something not quite right with the shape of your washers.
R,
Bullseye

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No I have not modified any of the FCG contact surfaces at all.Bullseye wrote:Welcome to Guntalk-Online!
Have you incorporated any other parts or polished any of the other surfaces, like the hammer's hook?
The first thing I would look at is the diameter of your washers. Is one of them partially blocking the sear from sitting completely on the hammer hook? Slamming the bolt and having he hammer follow typically says that there is an engagement issue with the dynamic components of your pistol. That means the hammer/sear engagement isn't right. The likeliness of the VQ sear causing the problem is reduced because you are experiencing the same problem with the factory sear.
Have you tried substituting the original magazine disconnector parts back into the pistol and checking it again? If the pistol functions normally then there is something not quite right with the shape of your washers.
R,
Bullseye
I did consider my washers to be the possible culprit so I actually pulled them out and made a whole new set and ended up with the exact same issue. I will take some pictures of the hammer and washers and post them up later.
One thing I did notice that was concerning was an odd wear mark on the inside of my Paclite receiver. It is actually more of a small dent slightly above the chamber from the recoil spring assembly. It appears that the nose of that recoil spring is hitting just above the chamber. I will try to get some pictures of this as well.
I do not have the factory mag safety parts any longer or I would give that a try. I'm considering buying the Clark bushing but I really don't think that's the problem. I'll post some pictures in just a bit and we'll go from there.
D.
That hammer is not sitting squarely on the sear face. It looks from the picture that you have the bushing ferrule pin turned around to the wrong side of the hammer. The flat locking ring portion needs to be on the right side as it was when the mag disconnector hook was installed. In my picture of the mod you can see the pin's locking ring is on the outside of the washers.

That could be a problem if it tilts the hammer on the sear face.
I do see the recoil spring guide dent at the top of the chamber. I don't see this as a problem based on the location of the dent. You could send that picture to Tacsol and ask their opinion, they may suggest a remedy for you.
R,
Bullseye

That could be a problem if it tilts the hammer on the sear face.
I do see the recoil spring guide dent at the top of the chamber. I don't see this as a problem based on the location of the dent. You could send that picture to Tacsol and ask their opinion, they may suggest a remedy for you.
R,
Bullseye

Ok I got the bushing pin turned around and back in the correct position (not sure how that one happened) but I am still having the same issue. I'm at a complete loss for what could be causing this.
I do see that the hammer is not quite square with the sear but what would cause this?? Is it possible that there is too much side to side play in the hammer because of the washer mod??
I'm clueless on this one.......
I do see that the hammer is not quite square with the sear but what would cause this?? Is it possible that there is too much side to side play in the hammer because of the washer mod??
I'm clueless on this one.......
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- New member
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Rosholt South Dakota USA
I agree, even though the outside washer is a little bigger diameter than I like from the pictures the sear is clearing them for hook engagement. I would really like to see your sear return spring out of the pistol. It may be that the short leg is bent and not applying enough rearward force to keep the sear up against the hammer. It should have the same angles as the one below.

That hammer bushing in backwards was forcing your hammer too close to the pistol's disconnector lever. The extra pressure was preventing your disconnector from operating properly. What would have happened is the disconnector couldn't raise up properly and engage the sear. It would have felt like the trigger was not connected to the trigger and there was no way to drop the hammer.
R,
Bullseye

That hammer bushing in backwards was forcing your hammer too close to the pistol's disconnector lever. The extra pressure was preventing your disconnector from operating properly. What would have happened is the disconnector couldn't raise up properly and engage the sear. It would have felt like the trigger was not connected to the trigger and there was no way to drop the hammer.
R,
Bullseye

Ok I just pulled it apart and found that the sear spring does have more of a forward angle then the one you have pictured. If I am looking at it correctly that extra angle would cause less pressure on the sear thus possibly causing my problem??
Now should I attempt to bend this one up a bit or scrap it and order a new one??

Now should I attempt to bend this one up a bit or scrap it and order a new one??

**UPDATE**
I believe the problem has been solved and the culprit was the sear spring. I bent the sear spring similar to the one Bullseye posted and put it all back together with the factory sear and it was good to go. I just pulled it apart again and swapped for the VQ sear and it still seems to be working just fine now.
I am rather curious how that sear spring managed to get bent out of shape. That is the one part that was never removed from the pistol and I don't remember doing anything that could have bent it.
Anyway it is good to go now and the trigger feels great with the new sear. I think I will drill and tap the factory trigger for pre/post travel adjustments.
Bullseye- Thank you very much for your help, I could not have done it without your pictures.
-Derek
I believe the problem has been solved and the culprit was the sear spring. I bent the sear spring similar to the one Bullseye posted and put it all back together with the factory sear and it was good to go. I just pulled it apart again and swapped for the VQ sear and it still seems to be working just fine now.
I am rather curious how that sear spring managed to get bent out of shape. That is the one part that was never removed from the pistol and I don't remember doing anything that could have bent it.
Anyway it is good to go now and the trigger feels great with the new sear. I think I will drill and tap the factory trigger for pre/post travel adjustments.
Bullseye- Thank you very much for your help, I could not have done it without your pictures.
-Derek
When I looked at your pictures I saw that the sear spring did not look right. Your washers I saw looked OK. Having the hammer bushing pin in backwards would have caused a failure to release the hammer via trigger pull problem. My second thought on the light sear pressure was the sear spring leg got bent. If the sear was forced too far forward during the reinstallation process it would have bent the sear leg like that. This is not difficult to do, if the face of the sear is rotated into the mag well when the hammer is placed into the frame. It could have even happened when the Mark III hammer disconnect safety hook was still installed in your pistol if you disassembled it before the washer mod. That mag safety hook has a pretty aggressive front to it which can force the sear to rotate significantly forward. Bending the spring back is the correct remedy for the problem. Be sure in the future to not over rotate the sear. The good thing is the problem is now solved.
Go out an enjoy your pistol.
R,
Bullseye
Go out an enjoy your pistol.
R,
Bullseye
