I just bought a model 41 that is about 10 years old and looks like new. It shoots good, but the trigger has a little creep, unlike the one I had 40 years ago that I should never have sold. I bought a M41 adapter for my Power Custom sear stoning fixture, but Midway shipped it in a padded envelope and I think the pins got bent. They will replace it but of course I bought the last one they had so it is on backorder.
Now to my question. With the gun uncocked (and unloaded), the trigger moves freely almost through it's travel, then comes to a stop. Further pressure results in a crisp click and movement to the stop. It's just like a two stage trigger, except of course the hammer doesn't drop. I haven't tried to take it apart because I was waiting for the adapter, but now there's no telling when that might show up. Any idea what is causing this trigger behavior? I never took my previous one apart beyond field stripping because there was no need to, so all I can do is look at an exploded parts diagram. Can't tell much from that.
Thanks for any info.
Model 41 trigger
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
First, how far is the take-up travel? Most M41 triggers only travel about 1/8th inch total pull length. That means you have about 1/16th inch take-up if I understand you right. That's not much movement at all and is fairly normal for a non customized M41 trigger.
There are two places were this take-up slack could reside. One is where the trigger bar meets the trigger. Any play here between the components and the trigger has some perceivable slack. The other place is on the other end where the trigger bar meets and engages the sear. Again any play between the mating surfaces will be felt as slack. Put a little bit of play on both of these points and together they can make the slack feel much larger than it is.
Cutting the sear or the breakaway angle on a stoning fixture can also affect these engagement surfaces, so one has to take care to check them as you go. More than once I've had to stone the back of the trigger bar because after stoning the sear the trigger bar cannot engage it properly. It is a delicate balance that is not for the novice. If you decide to take it on then be sure to go slow and check the interaction of these parts often.
R,
Bullseye
There are two places were this take-up slack could reside. One is where the trigger bar meets the trigger. Any play here between the components and the trigger has some perceivable slack. The other place is on the other end where the trigger bar meets and engages the sear. Again any play between the mating surfaces will be felt as slack. Put a little bit of play on both of these points and together they can make the slack feel much larger than it is.
Cutting the sear or the breakaway angle on a stoning fixture can also affect these engagement surfaces, so one has to take care to check them as you go. More than once I've had to stone the back of the trigger bar because after stoning the sear the trigger bar cannot engage it properly. It is a delicate balance that is not for the novice. If you decide to take it on then be sure to go slow and check the interaction of these parts often.
R,
Bullseye
Bullseye, did you understand that I'm talking about the trigger doing this with the gun uncocked? All the single action triggers in my experience move freely through their travel with no clicking when uncocked. It's like a dry fire feature, which would be great if it was designed to do this, but I know this isn't the case.
No I missed that it was uncocked. Does it do this with an empty mag installed? Does it do this without a mag installed?
Take off the grips and look at the trigger action with empty mags installed and uninstalled. Squeeze the trigger - can you see anything that would be causing the click? Is the trigger bar spring causing the click? With no mag installed it should look something like this-
R,
Bullseye
Take off the grips and look at the trigger action with empty mags installed and uninstalled. Squeeze the trigger - can you see anything that would be causing the click? Is the trigger bar spring causing the click? With no mag installed it should look something like this-
R,
Bullseye
There's your clicking source. It is doing exactly what it is supposed to do, prevent the trigger from engaging the sear when the hammer is not cocked.
With a magazine removed the magazine disconnector lever should push the trigger bar far enough out of the way to prevent any contact with the sear, like the one pictured above. In this case you shouldn't have any click.
R,
Bullseye
With a magazine removed the magazine disconnector lever should push the trigger bar far enough out of the way to prevent any contact with the sear, like the one pictured above. In this case you shouldn't have any click.
R,
Bullseye
That's pretty interesting. I have a 41 from the same vintage, but it doesn't click. Is the transfer bar popping out of engagement with the sear? Possibly the over travel is set on the loose side. I adjust mine so that with 1 piece of copy paper between the trigger and over travel screw the gun will fire, but with 2 it will not. This seems to give me enough extra space so that the hammer always falls.
Mine has kind of a mushy trigger as well. I bought an extra sear to tune up, but haven't touched it (in 10 years). I like it anyway.
Steve.
Mine has kind of a mushy trigger as well. I bought an extra sear to tune up, but haven't touched it (in 10 years). I like it anyway.
Steve.