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I am going to add some VQ parts to my MKIII. Do you think I can get by with only adding the VQ Hammer and Sear or should I do the whole kit?

You can get 90% just by adding the sear. The rest is polish.

Having said that, I have the whole accurizing kit in my Mark III, and love it. But if you don't want to spend the extra you'll be more than happy with the sear alone.

Be sure to get the VQ extractor though, that's the best $12 you'll spend.

What is the total cost of a job like that? The sear and extractor.

I just added the sear. I added the trigger only because they were only $15 Bargain bin(VQ). That is all you need.(The sear that is). Oh and of course the extractor have to have the extractor.

Tucker3474 wrote:I am going to add some VQ parts to my MKIII. Do you think I can get by with only adding the VQ Hammer and Sear or should I do the whole kit?

Really don't think you need the hammer, all I ever did to my MarkII's was the VQ sear and extractor and adding a pretravel screw to the stock trigger. You could go with the trigger also as it will give you external travel adjustments.

Welcome to Guntalk-Online Tucker.

You can get just the sear, and trigger and be very happy. The sear will lighten your trigger pull and the trigger will adjust the travel down to a reasonable level. If you want to get an extractor in anticipation of problems later go ahead. The factory hammer is fine with the VQ sear.

R,
Bullseye

I used the hammer and sear and the sear only - Couldn't tell any difference so get just the sear and you will be GTG. I would also get the VQ trigger - Allows external adjustment of pre-travel and over travel and that is a good thing...

As far as the external adjustments on the screw??????? Did my stock triggers years ago and yes it requires some work to readjust the first time, but after that I have not touched them for many moons.

OK, I feel I have to qualify my answer now. I suggested the externally adjustable trigger for our new member, as he does not have much experience tearing down his pistol and removing the trigger repeatedly to make the proper pretravel adjustments. There is no problem using the pretravel mod I have in the technical forum for those of you who have a good working familiarization with trigger removal. Both are viable ways to achieve the same end; a good working reduced travel trigger pull. It is just handier for some to do this adjustment externally rather than internally. Once adjusted you will likely not have to readjust it again. That is as long as you do not make any more modifications to the internal firing components of your pistol.

Hope this helps.

R,
Bullseye

Actually for the new shooter it is easier but then he has the temptation to readjust it until he has problems. Just thinking back to my old service tech days with snowmobiles add carbs with adjustments, some guy would just tweak and tweak until they had it running so good it would burn a hole through piston or foul the plug and would need a tow in either case. I did all the adjusting on mine by just pulling the trigger out and adjusting the screws and checking it out by hand without replacing the receiver/barrel. Of course mine are MarkII's, the MarkIII, I would definitely use the trigger with the external adjustments.

I thought your old service tech days involved hammering out a new shoe on an anvil.

R,
Bullseye

Bullseye wrote:I thought your old service tech days involved hammering out a new shoe on an anvil.

R,
Bullseye

Yep, them were the good old days, found out is was easier if you took the horse off the shoes first. Them Clydesdale are just a little on the heavy duty side.