This happened to a club member:
He put the gun back together after a routine bolt cleaning, and it "locked up". He could not get the bolt stop out again. The trigger would not pull even though the bolt would cycle and the hammer was set.
When I saw it, I noticed that he had a VQ trigger, and it seemed to that the trigger stop was too long, thus preventing the trigger from being able to release the sear and hammer. Unfortunately, the gunsmith had used red loctite.
He brought the gun to the gunsmith. The gunsmith says the problem was that the hammer pin had walked out just a bit, he blamed it on the VQ grips that are recessed around the hammer pin. He said that the "springs" had gotten locked up, which I am guessing the magazine safety and/or magazine safety spring. But perhaps the pin walked so far that the disconnector is off. I don't know, I would have liked to have had a better explanation. But supposedly the trigger stop was not involved.
Ruger MKIII lockup
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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greener
If you hadn't added the gunsmith's diagnosis, I'd have guessed that the pre-travel screw had walked in enough that the sear wouldn't release the hammer. The symptom is the trigger moves freely but no satisfying click when the sear releases the hammer (or bang if it is loaded). If you can't release the hammer, then the mainspring won't come out. (Purely theoretical, not that I've ever had this happen. 
)
If that's a problem with VQ grips, you think you would hear about it more often since it should happen with MKIII's and MKII's.
)If that's a problem with VQ grips, you think you would hear about it more often since it should happen with MKIII's and MKII's.
Sounds like a valid diagnosis to me. The left grip panel does have to be secure to the frame or the hammer pin can walk. If this happens the hammer will cock in the frame and can jam everything up.
There is a way to release the hammer when this happens. To release it you must remove the grip panels, use a hooked tool to snag the sear, and simultaneously stick a long flat bladed screwdriver into the mag well to activate the magazine disconnector hook.
Unfortunately, VQ grips have been known to work themselves loose, or bind up the bolt catch if the left grip is on too tightly. It's finding the right amount of tension on the grip screws that can make all the difference. A little blue locktite on the grip screws can keep them from backing out over time.
R,
Bullseye
There is a way to release the hammer when this happens. To release it you must remove the grip panels, use a hooked tool to snag the sear, and simultaneously stick a long flat bladed screwdriver into the mag well to activate the magazine disconnector hook.
Unfortunately, VQ grips have been known to work themselves loose, or bind up the bolt catch if the left grip is on too tightly. It's finding the right amount of tension on the grip screws that can make all the difference. A little blue locktite on the grip screws can keep them from backing out over time.
R,
Bullseye
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greener
Good info.
Bullseye, I think you've used something similar for releasing the sear when banging the muzzle on a padded block didn't work.
I've wondered what would happen if you just removed the pin completely. Would it make matters worse or relieve the hangup so you could get the pistol apart for reassembly? I've never been adventuresome enough to give it a try.
Bullseye, I think you've used something similar for releasing the sear when banging the muzzle on a padded block didn't work.
I've wondered what would happen if you just removed the pin completely. Would it make matters worse or relieve the hangup so you could get the pistol apart for reassembly? I've never been adventuresome enough to give it a try.
Removing the sear pivot pin will work with the Mark II model but the Mark III has that mag disconnector hook that will keep it in place securely under the hammer. There is a penalty if you tap out the sear pivot pin in a 22/45, the sear return spring will be damaged. The best method is the one I've shown above.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye