1911 screw studs--22/45 herret nationals

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:10 am

Remove the logos before grinding, like in the picture above.

Use a set of standard 1911 grip panels as a template for your bushings. Take a look at this link for more ideas 1911 grip mod

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:21 am

It seems like that guy's 22/45 does not have ruger emblems that popped out, but I think mine does, based on this:
http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=347

Inside my magazine well there are metal studs/pins that I think are what hold the emblems in. I am not quite sure how to get the emblems out though without damaging them, or what tool to use to put pressure on the internal studs/pins inside to pop them out.

hogdogs · Post by **hogdogs** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:35 am

Melch I think they pop off...
When I do mine I intend to install them with epoxy and the screws if it don't seem the screw lugs are firmly set enuff in my frame. I will have access holes for pins so won't need the grips removed...
I sure like the rattle snake hide look on a kimber I seen in the gun shop...
Brent

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 11:58 am

Mech,

I think you misunderstood which picture I meant as a reference to pop out the logos. I meant this one.

Clearly the logo has been removed by pressing it out of the grip. The one on the Wiztech's website is a Mark II version, which has moulded logos and they are not removable.

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:05 pm

I get it, just not quite sure how to pop them out, or what you mean by pressing on them. I think if I figure out a way to put pressure on the pins inside they will pop out, or maybe I need a small screw driver or scribe to pry them out.

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:10 pm

Just use a screwdriver from the front, since you don't care about preserving the logo. You're going to grind off the checkering so any gouging in the surface would be removed.

R,
Bullseye

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 2:26 pm

The Ruger 22/45 will accept the full size 1911 grips, right?

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:56 pm

The full size panels fit but you'll have to make a deeper relief cut for the bolt release on the left panel.

R,
Bullseye

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:03 pm

Bullseye - Is there a more appropriate size panel to use?

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:13 pm

The Wiztech's website uses a officer's sized grip panel. http://www.wiztechs.com/knightsrealm/gu ... /grips.htm

The ARFCOM website uses a standard sized panel. http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=347

Look at both modification instructions and decide which sized grip panel is a better fit for you.

Myself, I have big hands and I just made a set of my own for my Marvel 22 on a 1911 frame.

But I've been known to make grips for the Ruger frame too.

The standard grip panels are just a little too thin for my comfort. The unique feature of my Ruger grip panels are they emulate the grip angle of a 1911. When I designed them I used the outline of a Colt to set up the grip angle.

R,
Bullseye

OpsMgr · Post by **OpsMgr** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:32 pm

Thanks for the additonal info and DANG, those are some fine grips you made!

Do you have a thread on that Marvel 1911 conversion? I have always wanted one of those units for my 1911...

melchloboo, you seeing this?

Post by **Bullseye** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:42 pm

We've discussed Marvel conversions a few times in the past.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =6402#6402
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =5940#5940
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =4719#4719
http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/vie ... =1740#1740

R,
Bullseye

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 12:50 pm

I have the panels flat now, not perfectly but the nationals lay flat against them. I figure I will just put tape on the underside of the grip to fill in any spots where I see light coming through when I hold the grips up against the frame. If the epoxy holds well on the bushings, it shouldn't make any difference.

I used a dremel and a file. Very minor scratching around the "trench" in a few spots, since the grips will cover them I'm not going to bother buffing them out.

I was able to get the ruger emblems out without damaging them, toying with the idea of mounting them in the grips...

Two things I learned is 1: don't use duct tape, I think masking tape would be better because the duct tape glue sticks to the gun and took me 20 minutes to clean off. 2: I didn't realize grips don't come with screws, so I had to order the matching screws to the bushings. No extra shipping, I just added a few other items to the order

Now I am just waiting to hook up with a buddy that has a drill press so I can drill the bushing holes for the frame, and possibly a hole in the wood grips for the sear pin.

Its been tedious work, I curse ruger for not making the frame this way in the first place!

melchloboo · Post by **melchloboo** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 12:53 pm

Also Bullseye-
Your grips look great.

For completeness on the service section of your site, I believe you are missing the instructions on how to remove/install the magazine release on the 22/45, I found it on another site, I think the one where the guy put the hogue finger groove grips on his 22/45.

Post by **Bullseye** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 2:01 pm

You bring up a good point I will add the removal of the 22/45 magazine release to my maintenance page. I know I have some photos here of it because I had to show someone a while back how to do it.

As far as duct tape goes - I'd lay a base layer of masking tape on the frame first then add a layer of duct tape on too of the masking tape. The extra layer of tape will give the frame more protection from any cutting tool slips. Laying the duct tape over the masking tape will alleviate the glue from sticking to the frame.

Thanks,

R,
Bullseye