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If you have a micrometer you can measure that VQ bushing against the OEM. Just go from the end of the ferrule to the inner edge of the flange. I'll bet the VQ is longer than the original, at least it appears that way to me in the photographs and from the wear patterns.

R,
Bullseye

I didn't measure the original b/c I don't have time to take it out of the pistol right now. But, the Clark bushing measures as follows:

0.059" end of ferrule to inner edge of flange on the short end
0.315" end of ferrule to inner edge of flange on the long end
0.048" thickness of flange
0.425" overall length end of ferrule to end of ferrule

I didn't take out the original bushing to measure it - but I did remove the receiver and I don't see any unusual wear patterns on the hammer or disconnector.

I used the Mk II this morning at a steel plate match and it functioned flawlessly for the entire match. No hiccups, FTEs, FTFs, for 120+ rounds. I will eventually get around to measuring the original hammer bushing for comparison but for now its working well again. Thanks again for all the help. This forum is a great source of information.

Good to hear it's fixed.

I experienced the exact same problem "FTF, bolt not going into battery" with the exact same "dings" appearing on the same parts. The problem was caused by the hammer pin moving to the left out of the right side of the frame. This allowed the hammer assembly to move up under pressure from the hammer spring. The pin was allowed to move to the left out of the frame because after market grips were installed with a relief area milled for the head of the hammer pin. The milled area allowed the pin to move to the left about .055". I glued a .055 shim to the left grip panel to hold the pin to the right. (Standard grips hold the pin to the right!) Problem solved!

John

Patriots trusting in God

Welcome to the forum.

sounds like a good solution.