I am replacing the sear in my mk111 2245.
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
I am replacing the sear in my mk111 2245.
Do I need to order any other parts besides the sear? It seems like I heard something one time about a bushing. I am going to get the extractor also. I am calling Ruger to get a new hammer pin also. My pin moves a little.
First, what kind of hammer pin do you have? Is it a pin with the small head on it? The pin can move a little as long as it stays in the frame. There is a little slop in between the groove and the sear spring. What was happening in the past was the hammer pin was walking to the right, were the frame is thinner, and damaging it. The pin moving to the left a little is no problem as the right side of the frame is thicker and more supportive.
Just a sear is fine. You don't need a hammer bushing unless you're planning to remove the magazine safety. Then you'd need a Clark Mark II hammer bushing. If you want to reduce the amount of trigger travel then you may wish to consider picking up an adjustable VQ target trigger.
R,
Bullseye
Just a sear is fine. You don't need a hammer bushing unless you're planning to remove the magazine safety. Then you'd need a Clark Mark II hammer bushing. If you want to reduce the amount of trigger travel then you may wish to consider picking up an adjustable VQ target trigger.
R,
Bullseye

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
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Re: I am replacing the sear in my mk111 2245.
I would go with the trigger also unless you want to drill and tap the trigger you have for a pretravel screw, sure are nice to shoot when you get the slack out of the trigger, make a whole different gun out of them.Z400ACDC wrote:Do I need to order any other parts besides the sear? It seems like I heard something one time about a bushing. I am going to get the extractor also. I am calling Ruger to get a new hammer pin also. My pin moves a little.
You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


I don;t have the updated pin. It is walking to the right. It is not bad, but I want to prevent a future problem.Bullseye wrote:First, what kind of hammer pin do you have? Is it a pin with the small head on it? The pin can move a little as long as it stays in the frame. There is a little slop in between the groove and the sear spring. What was happening in the past was the hammer pin was walking to the right, were the frame is thinner, and damaging it. The pin moving to the left a little is no problem as the right side of the frame is thicker and more supportive.
Just a sear is fine. You don't need a hammer bushing unless you're planning to remove the magazine safety. Then you'd need a Clark Mark II hammer bushing. If you want to reduce the amount of trigger travel then you may wish to consider picking up an adjustable VQ target trigger.
R,
Bullseye
I don't want to change the trigger because I want my shooting buddies to think it is stock

- bearandoldman
- Ye Loquacious Olde Pharte
- Posts: 4194
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 10:30 am
- Location: Mid Michigan
That is SNEAKY but very clever. Ye you should go with the new style pin to prevent future frame damage. You should drill and tap the stock trigger for a pretravel screw, Bullseye has got some inf on that somewhere, all the adjustments are internal and no one will notice a thing unless you let them shoot it.I don;t have the updated pin. It is walking to the right. It is not bad, but I want to prevent a future problem.
I don't want to change the trigger because I want my shooting buddies to think it is stock

You have great day and shoot straight and may the Good Lord smile on you.


Call Ruger and get the new pin. They will send it to you for free, all they need is the serial number of your gun. There's no reason to wait, all that can happen is the frame will get damaged from the old pivot pin walking.
If you want to keep the stock trigger but you want the pretravel screw, there's a procedure to add one into your stock trigger. http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=651 This screw is invisible from the outside and gives the appearance of a stock trigger.
R,
Bullseye
If you want to keep the stock trigger but you want the pretravel screw, there's a procedure to add one into your stock trigger. http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=651 This screw is invisible from the outside and gives the appearance of a stock trigger.
R,
Bullseye

Bullseye wrote:Call Ruger and get the new pin. They will send it to you for free, all they need is the serial number of your gun. There's no reason to wait, all that can happen is the frame will get damaged from the old pivot pin walking.
If you want to keep the stock trigger but you want the pretravel screw, there's a procedure to add one into your stock trigger. http://www.guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=651 This screw is invisible from the outside and gives the appearance of a stock trigger.
R,
Bullseye
Do I have to do the trigger? The trigger length does not bother me. I just want the pull to be easier.
Ruger has the updated hammer pin on the way. I think I will wait for my sear before I break into it.
No, you don't have to modify the trigger at all. The idea behind the trigger mod is to reduce the amount of distance the trigger has to travel. If you're fine with it, then by all means leave it be. I'd wait until the new hammer pin comes in before installing the new sear too. That way you just combine the two tasks into one procedure.
R,
Bullseye
R,
Bullseye
