Lubricant Problems?

[greener]

I had problems with both my MKII GC and MKIII Hunter getting the trigger to reset today. Both pistols would load the first round in the mag, fire, eject and reload the next round. On the next round the trigger would not reset. If I worked the slide, the round would eject, the next one would load. Then the trigger wouldn't reset. I thought the reason was that I had adjusted the VQ triggers to remove most of the pre-travel. However, backing out on the trigger didn't seem to do anything.

Both pistols had been cleaned and given a light coat of lubricant. New stuff I bought at a gun show, with a writeup that it had lower viscosity and more lubricity than most lubes out there. Temperature was about 45F. Unfortunately, I didn't take any spare lube.

The VQ trigger and sear have been in the Hunter for over a year. I just put the trigger and sear in the GC this week.


Will clean the pistols and go back to Hoppes next trip to the range. (Sounds like a good reason to go tomorrow.) Any suggestions on other things to look for?

[Bullseye]

When the outside air temps are low the lubricant tends to get thicker causing cycling problems. When I'm shooting in cold weather I cut back on the application of oils. I apply a few drops to a rag and just wipe the rag on the parts. This application method will leave my pistol looking dry but will have just enough lube to function normally. The other upside of this method is less unburned powder residue gets stuck in the inner workings of the firearm because there's less lube for it to stick on. Some people even switch to dry lubes in colder weather for the same reason.

R,
Bullseye

[greener]

I thought I had put it own very light. I dropped some on a cloth and applied it that way. Will go back and redo the pistols. I didn't have this problem last weekend, which was colder. Guess no good deed goes unpunished.

Working well enough to cycle ammo but not to reset the sear.

[swoter]

Someone mentioned a dry lube made by Remington maybe? Is this worh looking into? I have a tendency to overlube my Mark 2's. Have been meaning to look for it, but forgot the last couple of times I was out.

[greener]

I've heard of people using dry molybdenum grease. Never tried it. Guy on RFC has made his P22's last longer than they should using dry moly.

I just checked my Hunter. No evidence of build up on the bolt or the receiver. The bolt felt almost dry. Just a bit of oily feel on my fingers.

[Bullseye]

Check your trigger plunger (on the top of your trigger) for any residue build up inside the plunger hole. Over oiling here and powder residue build up will cause the disconnector's timing to be off and could cause a problem like you've described.

R,
Bullseye

[greener]

Would you buy over adjustment of the post-travel screw?

Checked the trigger plungers. The one on the MKII was clean since it had just been put in (part of the VQ trigger upgrade). The Hunter plunger was clean. Cleaned all three MK's with Rem Oil spray and applied a light coat of Hoppes oil to the bolts. Took the pistols out to the range and had the same problem. Backed off on the post travel with only minor improvement. Backed off the post-travel adjustment a quarter turn and the problem disappeared.

Whatever was causing the problem didn't show up when I manually operated the slide, but would show up when I pulled the trigger.

[Bullseye]

Yes, that could do it too. Did your overtravel screw change from recoil vibration? I usually Locktite that screw to prevent it from moving. You can wick in some blue Locktite once you get the screw set correctly. Just apply a little drop of sealant to a toothpick and swab it on the back of the screw threads, it'll work its way down into the threads.

R,
Bullseye

[greener]

Nope, this was a self-inflicted problem. When I put in the VQ trigger and sear in the MKII, I decided to set the trigger with a bit less slop than I had in my MKIII's. The MKIII pre-travel adjustment had loosened up and, while I was fixing the new installation, I fixed the old ones. No loctite, but when I get them like I want them and verify they work under all conditions, I think I will loctite it in. Backing out on the pretravel screw didn't work if the posttravel was set wrong.

Apparently there is a difference in manually cycling the bolt (dry fire) and having it done by firing.

[Bullseye]

There's a little difference between manual and operationally cycling the bolt, that's why I don't set the screws right on the edge when I adjust them. This is one case where I could've felt the problem but was forced to do it through someone else's hands. I would have been able to feel that the lubricant level was good and that an adjustment was off. But in the end it all worked out as you found and solved the problem on your own

Good job!

R,
Bullseye

[dingo1799]

im by no means a gun professional in any sense of the way, but from what i've read, and heard from others, and personal experiences, rem-oil isnt worth the can its put in. the only thing that touches my guns is breakfree's CLP, and more recently, i got hold of some Otis Special Forces Dry Lube. it looks like beer, but the carrier evaporates immediately and leaves a dry coating of teflon product on whatever you put it on. i did a little test with it the last time my MKIII Hunter got cleaned. after about 700 rounds, the guts of the gun looked like it'd hardly been shot, compared to what it usually looks like after a couple hundred bullets.. i'll post a pic tomorrow, too late tonight

[Bullseye]

It's more a matter of how much lube is applied rather than which brand is used. Apply the lubricant sparingly and there's little fouling in the action with rimfires. I apply a little oil to a rag and wipe the parts with the rag. This style just applies a thin coating of oil rather than leaving a wet mess for the powder residue to stick to and gum up.

I have a large semi-transparent bottle of CLP in the shop. I take a little out of it as needed. After some time the teflon settles to the bottom of the container. After more time the substance begins to harden into the consistency of glasers putty. No amout of shaking can break up the viscous glob of goo on the bottom of the container. I use CLP sparingly now days and stick with the light oils.

R,
Bullseye