Hi folks, I have a new MK III Hunter that I am starting to spiff up.
VQ bolt kit, trigger kit.
Clark bushing and pin.
Remove loaded round indicator and plug it.
Remove mag safety.
Replace sights (I love the gun, but hate the V rear and Hi Viz front).
I'm also interested in getting a MK II that's been used and abused or just the lower for a real fun project, but that's for later!
Every gun is an individual and mine is no different. I've read some threads about mags not going home, and mine is doing that too, but for a reason I haven't seen here yet. If this is redundant, sorry 'bout that.
I looked carefully and noticed my gun hangs up on the mag release button inside the mag well. The inside of the mag release button protrudes too far and has a sharp edge that catches the mag.
Tomorrow I have time to do something about it, so I'm planing on hitting with a file.
MK III project
Moderators: Bullseye, Moderators
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greener
I did the VQ accurizing kit on my Hunter. Didn't like the extended bolt release that came with the kit. In subsequent MK mods, I've just added the VQ sear and trigger. I don't see much difference with the hammer.
I replaced the mag safety stuff after I got tired of swinging the disconnector with hammer and mag disconnect pieces back into the grip frame. Having to insert a magazine didn't bother me. I almost never shoot without one. I used a bushing made by Sam Lam. Does a fine job in my MKIII 22/45 and MKIII Hunter.
I replaced the grips with Hogue finger grips.
I either like the hi viz sights or don't like them. When I think about replacing the sights, I'm in my like period, so I haven't done that.
The Hunter is a nice shooting Ruger and you can make it better by fiddling with it. Part of the fun of owning a Ruger.
A lot of folks replace the extractor with a VQ Exact Edge extractor. I plan to if I ever run into problems with my stock extractors.
Looked up the VQ bolt mod. Interesting addition. Let us know how yours works.
Have fun.
I replaced the mag safety stuff after I got tired of swinging the disconnector with hammer and mag disconnect pieces back into the grip frame. Having to insert a magazine didn't bother me. I almost never shoot without one. I used a bushing made by Sam Lam. Does a fine job in my MKIII 22/45 and MKIII Hunter.
I replaced the grips with Hogue finger grips.
I either like the hi viz sights or don't like them. When I think about replacing the sights, I'm in my like period, so I haven't done that.
The Hunter is a nice shooting Ruger and you can make it better by fiddling with it. Part of the fun of owning a Ruger.
A lot of folks replace the extractor with a VQ Exact Edge extractor. I plan to if I ever run into problems with my stock extractors.
Looked up the VQ bolt mod. Interesting addition. Let us know how yours works.
Have fun.
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blue68f100
- Master contributor
- Posts: 1997
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 10:31 pm
- Location: Piney Woods of East Texas
I just reworked the factory parts in my MKIII. I did order a spring kit to get the lighter trigger plunger spring. You can use a Bic pen spring for this, but it's a hit and miss to get the spring rate right. I left my LCI in, I use it as a time to detail clean indicator. When it starts sticking it's time to clean. My gun has digested any thing I have fed it. When I first got it one mag would feed fine and the other not. So number your mags so if you have a feeding problem it will let you know if it's the mag or something else. I had to file on the magazine notch to lower the mag, then all was good.
As far as the sights, Ruger was sending out the Sq notch rear on request, free. It's not expensive any way if you have to buy one. I have the smallest light tube in mine. he early one had 3 different sizes and 2 colors. The new ones only give you the med size only. I have problem seeing mine so I ended up with a Mueller Quick Shot reflex dot sight on mine. Still has the original battery close to 2 yrs old now.
If you use the extended mag catch to release the bolt you will eventually wear it down so it will not catch the bolt. The recommend way is to slingshot the bolt.
Enjoy, these pistols are fun to shoot.
As far as the sights, Ruger was sending out the Sq notch rear on request, free. It's not expensive any way if you have to buy one. I have the smallest light tube in mine. he early one had 3 different sizes and 2 colors. The new ones only give you the med size only. I have problem seeing mine so I ended up with a Mueller Quick Shot reflex dot sight on mine. Still has the original battery close to 2 yrs old now.
If you use the extended mag catch to release the bolt you will eventually wear it down so it will not catch the bolt. The recommend way is to slingshot the bolt.
Enjoy, these pistols are fun to shoot.
David
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
SS MKIII 6 7/8" Fluted Hunter. Mueller Quick Shot, Bushnell 2x Scope, Hogue Rubber Grips
Custom Built 1911
I have a VQ Mark II hammer bushing in my Mark III to replace the mag safety, so I used the VQ kit for a Mark II. I got the newer kit with the stainless trigger, just liked the look better. I kept the stock springs, and still got a slightly lighter pull. It's about three pounds versus the 2.25 claimed by using the whole kit. I skipped the VQ bolt release as well, it didn't look holster friendly, and the Ruger release works good for me.
Somewhere here is my long-winded detail of making the LCI plug. I only had a hacksaw and files to make one from a stainless washer, so it took several hours but well worth it to me.
Using a Mark III bottom with a Mark II top and hammer bushing would make the ideal Ruger, a Mark 2.5 I guess???
Somewhere here is my long-winded detail of making the LCI plug. I only had a hacksaw and files to make one from a stainless washer, so it took several hours but well worth it to me.
Using a Mark III bottom with a Mark II top and hammer bushing would make the ideal Ruger, a Mark 2.5 I guess???
* 2 Ruger Bearcat stainless, w/ EWK ejector housings & Wolff springs
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
* Ruger SP-101 .22LR, w/ Wolff springs
* 2 NAA Guardian .32ACP
* 3 Zastava M70 .32ACP
* S&W 15-22 Sport (.22LR AR)
* 2 Ruger SR22 .22LR pistols
Update:
Here is my experience putting the VQ stuff on and taking out the loaded chamber indicator. There are several threads with this info, but I hope a new person will glean something useful from this.
I put in the bolt kit and the trigger kit and removed the internal LCI leaving the external plastic plug in place. I thought the trigger kit would get rid of the mag safety, but nooooo...c'mon Volquartsen....include this in the kit. I now know that a bushing from VQ is needed, and put one on order.
Another option is to get the kit for a MK II and dump the MK III internals altogether. This would have been my preferred method, but I already bought the MK III kit, so bushing it is for me.
I used many online sources as well as the written directions which were printed on a postage stamp
Before getting started, take a few minutes to learn and know by heart the nomenclature of every part on/in the pistol. It makes comprehending the instructions so much easier. I know for some, that is like saying "breath in order not to pass out" but this is my first "gunsmithing" project and while I am an experienced shooter, I'd never seen the innards of a gun beyond the simple field strip for cleaning, and knowing the nomenclature for each piece before hand would have save a lot of aggravation.
Trigger Group Installation Hints:
-When disassembling/assembling the hammer group, use a drift punch to hold it together while you use your three hands to put the pin in and out. Use drift punches everywhere and not just anything handy like did at first.
-On the safety there is a small spring and detent pin, the pin is really small, and is easily dislodged. I put a dab of petroleum jelly inside the orifice to "stick" the pin in the detent while I maneuvered the sear and safety into their positions.
-Once the safety is put back in, engage the sear into the safety notch and place the safety switch up into the "S" position.
-If reinstalling the mag safety (like I had to until my bushing comes in) I discovered a potentially dangerous mistake that can be made. Several times, I incorrectly installed the mag safety spring. I placed the lower kinked portion in the magazine well instead of behind the frame in the back of the magazine well. What I found was that when I inserted a magazine for the function check the magazine going home with the spring in the mag well let the sear release without pulling the trigger
I don't know for certain if a full magazine would have discharged or if it would fire at all, but the function check in this condition let the hammer freely operate without pulling the trigger. At any rate USE EXTREME CAUTION AND INSTALL THE MAGAZINE SAFETY SPRING CORRECTLY
The enlarged bolt release button might interfere with a two handed, thumb-on-thumb grip. This is the grip I use, and I need to go to the range and see if the recoil takes skin off my thumb knuckle.
The bolt kit went in easily.
The loaded chamber indicator came apart easily, but beware: There are two tiny springs inside that are lurking to launch across your bench! I removed the metal piece that activates the indicator and put the plastic cover back in. Someone was making a nice stainless plug that fit nice and tight that I would like to track down.
After properly reassembling the pistol
I am very pleased with the trigger pull. The pre-travel and over-travel screws were easy to adjust but be sure to put locktite on them, they are loose.
Unfortunately, the trigger pull and release is so crisp and sweet now, some obvious design flaws of an inexpensive pistol are now present. The trigger has a lot of lateral slop, and a moderate amount of fore/aft slop that the pre-travel screw cannot fully cure. Setting the fore-aft slop to a sweet dialed-in feel makes the trigger reset unreliably. To assure reliable trigger resetting, you have to back out the pre-travel screw until you get the reset right. On my pistol, that results in more fore-aft slop than I would like.
Regarding the lateral slop, from what I can figure it's the result of the convoluted design and the stamped steel construction. Maybe that can be shimmed up somehow....
The Voquartsen parts are far superior to the stock Ruger parts, you definitely get what you pay for. Better instructions and video are a must. The VQ video is a small sized view, about 2x2, pretty hard on my 44 yo eyes.... Also, the narrator/demonstrator must have been race car drivers because they demo'd the whole thing in record speed. Holy cow man, slow down a little!
Overall a great learning experience on a gun that if I were to completely ruin the thing it would be no catastrophic loss to my wallet.
Here is my experience putting the VQ stuff on and taking out the loaded chamber indicator. There are several threads with this info, but I hope a new person will glean something useful from this.
I put in the bolt kit and the trigger kit and removed the internal LCI leaving the external plastic plug in place. I thought the trigger kit would get rid of the mag safety, but nooooo...c'mon Volquartsen....include this in the kit. I now know that a bushing from VQ is needed, and put one on order.
Another option is to get the kit for a MK II and dump the MK III internals altogether. This would have been my preferred method, but I already bought the MK III kit, so bushing it is for me.
I used many online sources as well as the written directions which were printed on a postage stamp
Before getting started, take a few minutes to learn and know by heart the nomenclature of every part on/in the pistol. It makes comprehending the instructions so much easier. I know for some, that is like saying "breath in order not to pass out" but this is my first "gunsmithing" project and while I am an experienced shooter, I'd never seen the innards of a gun beyond the simple field strip for cleaning, and knowing the nomenclature for each piece before hand would have save a lot of aggravation.
Trigger Group Installation Hints:
-When disassembling/assembling the hammer group, use a drift punch to hold it together while you use your three hands to put the pin in and out. Use drift punches everywhere and not just anything handy like did at first.
-On the safety there is a small spring and detent pin, the pin is really small, and is easily dislodged. I put a dab of petroleum jelly inside the orifice to "stick" the pin in the detent while I maneuvered the sear and safety into their positions.
-Once the safety is put back in, engage the sear into the safety notch and place the safety switch up into the "S" position.
-If reinstalling the mag safety (like I had to until my bushing comes in) I discovered a potentially dangerous mistake that can be made. Several times, I incorrectly installed the mag safety spring. I placed the lower kinked portion in the magazine well instead of behind the frame in the back of the magazine well. What I found was that when I inserted a magazine for the function check the magazine going home with the spring in the mag well let the sear release without pulling the trigger
I don't know for certain if a full magazine would have discharged or if it would fire at all, but the function check in this condition let the hammer freely operate without pulling the trigger. At any rate USE EXTREME CAUTION AND INSTALL THE MAGAZINE SAFETY SPRING CORRECTLY The enlarged bolt release button might interfere with a two handed, thumb-on-thumb grip. This is the grip I use, and I need to go to the range and see if the recoil takes skin off my thumb knuckle.
The bolt kit went in easily.
The loaded chamber indicator came apart easily, but beware: There are two tiny springs inside that are lurking to launch across your bench! I removed the metal piece that activates the indicator and put the plastic cover back in. Someone was making a nice stainless plug that fit nice and tight that I would like to track down.
After properly reassembling the pistol
I am very pleased with the trigger pull. The pre-travel and over-travel screws were easy to adjust but be sure to put locktite on them, they are loose.Unfortunately, the trigger pull and release is so crisp and sweet now, some obvious design flaws of an inexpensive pistol are now present. The trigger has a lot of lateral slop, and a moderate amount of fore/aft slop that the pre-travel screw cannot fully cure. Setting the fore-aft slop to a sweet dialed-in feel makes the trigger reset unreliably. To assure reliable trigger resetting, you have to back out the pre-travel screw until you get the reset right. On my pistol, that results in more fore-aft slop than I would like.
Regarding the lateral slop, from what I can figure it's the result of the convoluted design and the stamped steel construction. Maybe that can be shimmed up somehow....
The Voquartsen parts are far superior to the stock Ruger parts, you definitely get what you pay for. Better instructions and video are a must. The VQ video is a small sized view, about 2x2, pretty hard on my 44 yo eyes.... Also, the narrator/demonstrator must have been race car drivers because they demo'd the whole thing in record speed. Holy cow man, slow down a little!
Overall a great learning experience on a gun that if I were to completely ruin the thing it would be no catastrophic loss to my wallet.