Gun or ammo problem?

[cheryld]

Hi Bullseye,

What do you think I should, if anything, try to replace? This failure to fire is the only problem I am having with the gun. Removing the LCI took care of the other jam problems I was having. I have read everyones replies, and I admit I am a little confused. Still trying to learn where parts are in my Hunter AND in my new 10/22! Maybe you could explain it to a newbie. Everyone is very helpful over here.

[Bullseye]

The first thing I would check is to ensure that my hammer is not dragging on the sear and slowing it down. Next I would inspect the extractor slot in the barrel and make sure that there is no burr causing the cartridges to seat completely. Then I would remove the bolt and inspect it for the type of firing pin stop installed. A hollow pin will look like a hole through the bolt with a slight metal band round the inside edge.



A solid pin will look like a metal slug is inside the firing pin stop hole.

R,
Bullseye

[cheryld]

OK. I just ordered a set of roll pin punches from Brownells since I have no tools that will remove the roll pin which is what I seem to have. Can anyone tell me what size I need to get it out? Then I will detailstrip the ruger and see if that helps. Please standby!

[Bullseye]

It's a 1/8" pin punch.

R,
Bullseye

[cheryld]

Thanks Bullseye.

[rtn1911]

Bullseye,

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a quick question: How should the mag release and spring be removed when detail stripping MkIII 22/45. I used your (excellent!) instructions on this site to detail strip the gun the other day, but did not see how to remove it. I guess I could figure it out, but don't want to manhandle and break or bend one of these delicate parts.

Thank you.
Richard

[blue68f100]

The mag release comes out when you remove the screw on the left side of the gun.

[Bullseye]

On a 22/45 there's a piano spring on the right side of the frame that has to be lifted up out of its slot, near the trigger, to release the magazine latch button.

R,
Bullseye

[bearandoldman]

On a 22/45 there's a piano spring on the right side of the frame that has to be lifted up out of its slot, near the trigger, to release the magazine latch button.

R,
Bullseye

Dosn't that spring also fit in the groove of the triggger pivot pin to retain it, if memory serves me correctly. Never have had need to thake out that part on any of my 22/45's.

[Bullseye]

That it does. In the 22/45 the spring is also hooked and mounted in the frame on the other end. You can see it on the right side of the frame when you look from the outside of the pistol. It's the little hole just below the mag catch.

R,
Bullseye

[blue68f100]

I keep for getting the polymer frame guns are laid out different than the steel counter parts. I'm one that still old school, guns should be made of metal even though the polymer frame guns have proven them selves to be trustworthy.

[greener]

I keep for getting the polymer frame guns are laid out different than the steel counter parts. I'm one that still old school, guns should be made of metal even though the polymer frame guns have proven them selves to be trustworthy.

Just can't get a warm-fuzzy for tupperware, eh?

[rtn1911]

So, lift it up out of its slot near the trigger. Got it. I'll try that next time. However, given the relatively good acess to that area when all the other parts are out, I may not ever have to mess with it. Just get in there with a toothbrush for a good scrub.

[bigfatdave]

Canned air is your friend for cleaning small parts you don't want to take out.
Or an air compressor/receiver if you have one, of course.

[rtn1911]

Good point, BFD. I have a compressor in my garage that would work great for blowing out the micro-grit that's out of reach inside the frame. When I detail my 1911s, I use compressed air to blow out any excess Ballistol that's sitting inside the frame.