Gun or ammo problem?

[cheryld]

I have had my MKIII Hunter for several months now. I have about 1500 rounds of cci ammo thru it to break it in. I have had stove pipes and every once in a while I would have rounds that did not go off the first time, but would go off the second time. I removed the LCI and put in a VQ extraxtor and sear and the stove pipes are gone. Today I went to the range and had about 20-25 instances of the ammo not going off the first time. However I was using blazer and federal ammmo instead of cci. Why is this occurring? Is there a problem with my gun or is it just the ammo? I try to use quality ammo. Can someone help me? Why do the rounds go off the second time? BTW, the hits to the bullets are strong. Sorry for the long post. Thanks to all who read it and give me some help. I have posted this on other forums too. PLease help!! Cheryl

[Downeaster]

Probably the ammo. The primer material is supposed to be evenly distributed around the rim of rimfire ammo so that a strike anywhere on the rim detonates the charge.

With the cheaper bulk ammo, that doesn't always happen. The second strike hits in a slightly different place and the round fires.

In my experience, Remington Golden Bullet is the absolute worst in this regard. I've fired a lot of Federal with relatively few FTF's, but do get some.

[blue68f100]

Your FTF are a little high as to my experience. I shoot Fed and Win Bulk all the time and only get 1-2 every box as an average. One thing to check is that the FP Channel is clean. These seams to get a lot of powder residue. Can you tell on the FTF if the rim is bent. If so the bullet may have not been fully chambered. This can be do powder and lead build up in the chamber and/or breach face. I do a detail clean every 1500-2000 rounds. It was over 2k rounds this time and the FP channel was extremely dirty but It was not causing any problem.

Have you installed a VQ Hammer? if so these have a history for causing light strikes. But you said that the rim has a good dent in it, so this may not be the case.

By your round count you are probably due for a detail cleaning. This will probably help your FTF problem. The guide to detail cleaning can be found in the www.guntalk-online.com/service.html part of this sight.

Blazer ammo is suppose to be better than ave when it comes to bulk, surprised that it caused any FTF's.

btw. I use the LCI as a clean me indicator. When I push it out and it does not comeback instantly it indicates it's dirty and time to clean my gun. When it starts getting gummed up is when stove pipes accour.

[bigfatdave]

Ammo brand matters, so does lot # and how it is handled.

One of these days I'm going to abuse the crap out of a Fed550 bulk pack and handle another with kid gloves just to see how it affects reliability.

But cheap ammo is often not primed as well, if the two rim dents are of similar depth the problem isn't your gun. You could make sure the firing pin and FP channel are clean just to be sure, it couldn't hurt, anyway.

For the record, I've been keeping track of duds in bulk boxes by tossing a small marker in the box and marking the lid for each dud, I think I'll start tracking "second try" as well as "total dud" shells, then do my abuse/babied test.

[FourCornerm'n]

I've had some recent experiences that are making me reconsider the causes of some of my FTFire incidents. Went through a brick of CCI Blazer last week to test it out. Not a single failure to fire. Been having 15 - 18 per brick using Federal 550 Wally ammo. That's as bad as the Remington Golden Bullet bricks of several years ago. So, I've been ready to believe it was problem Federal ammo.

I'd been cleaning my Ruger 22/45 every 800-1000 rounds. Now I've been shooting so much recently that I clean after every 500 rounds (that is, several times a week). I've been a little more attentive to details simply because I'm into the gun so often (field strip level). Today, for the first time in ages, using Federal Champion 525 bulk pack, I had no failures to fire, at all. Last time before this, I had only one and that one failed to fire after 4 attempts.

My cleaning method includes careful cleaning of the breach face especially the arched corners that catch gunk and could affect the rim of a .22 case. Also the chamber is getting a more thorough cleaning than it used to. I'm guessing the more consistent cleaning (always trying to be cautious) has, in a cumulative sense, contributed to the return of almost 100% reliability with the Federal Bulk products, which I'd been cussing out for several months. FWIW

[cheryld]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I will clean the FP channel extra good. Hopefully, next time out may be better.

[ruger22]

A note on firing pin stops. On a new Mark 3 the stop is (on all I've seen) a roll pin. Pain to remove and put back, without a special punch made for roll pins. So it's a pain to thoroughly clean the firing pin, FP rebound spring, stop, and channel.

When you buy the FP stop as a part (KA03500), it is stainless steel rod, with rounded ends. Easy to push out and put back. So my original roll pin is in my junk box. I also made a couple of extras from some 1/8" stainless rod I had left over from my LCI plug project.

I guess Ruger does this so the pin can't fall out on the assembly line. The stainless rod stop is still held in reasonably well by the rebound spring tension.

[HEADKNOCKER]

I too would detail clean the MKIII..
I'd look also at the chamber & the possibility of lead buildup that can cause problems just as you describe as this doesn't let the round seat fully into the chamber & the FP strike seats the round fully.. Which can also cause extraction problems & failures to feed etc..
Good Luck!!

[Locoweed]

Whenever I had problems with my Rugers I would switch over to CCI Mini-Mags and never had a single problem after that. Seems they like good quality hot ammo.

[cheryld]

Minimmags are all I have shot to break in my Ruger Hunter. Thanks for the advice. So, are you saying I should replace the roll pin? It seems to be in there rather tightly. Whare do I get the proper punch for roll pins? Thanks. Cheryl

[ronn]

I had more than my fair share of increasing misfires with a Ruger II Target. Turning the bullet usually resulted in a fire, but replacing the main spring resulted in almost 100% results. It had 20-30K rounds I guess, and the main spring just did not have enough punch.

[greener]

Minimmags are all I have shot to break in my Ruger Hunter. Thanks for the advice. So, are you saying I should replace the roll pin? It seems to be in there rather tightly. Whare do I get the proper punch for roll pins? Thanks. Cheryl

I don't think you need to replace the roll pin, but you might want to consider it if you remove the firing pin and spring. Ruger has a warning in their field strip instructions to inspect the bolt to make sure the firing pin stop pin is in place on reassembly. The rod can fall out. Operating without it can irreparably damage the chamber.

You shouldn't have a problem at 1500 rounds.

I think the problem is likely gunk around the firing pin. Try cleaning it with something like Gunscrubber. If a thorough cleaning doesn't work and the FTF problem exists over several types of ammo at the rate you mentioned, then I'd consider replacing the firing pin, spring and roll pin.

[Locoweed]

Both Midway and Brownells sell sets of roll pin punches at a nominal price.

[rtn1911]

The FP stop pin on my new 22/45 is solid, not a roll pin. I looked at Ruger's website for the part but do not see it. 'd like to have a few extras on hand along with a firing pin. Any of you guys know where I can find a solid FP stop pin?

[Bullseye]

Ruger has returned back to solid firing pin stop pins in their new pistols. I believe it came down to too many complaints from customers that the pins were missing. A call to them will provide you with the new part numbers and a good source for some new pins.

R,
Bullseye