Revisiting rear sight fix on Ruger 22/45

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FourCornerm'n
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Revisiting rear sight fix on Ruger 22/45

Post by FourCornerm'n » Sat May 01, 2010 12:21 am

From last year:

I'd dimpled the frame under the rear sight base to try to help hold the sight base in place. It didn't work very well. Bullseye responded as follows:

<You could also lightly dress down the dimpled metal in the bottom of the dovetail with a needle file, that should do the trick where the metal meets the rear sight mount set screw. I would also thoroughly degrease the slot and sight base then apply some Locktite #271 (Red medium strength sealant) and let it cure for 24 hours. >

This is the next step necessary to rejuvenate my practice gun, the same Mark II 22/45 that keeps me busy here. I've got the gist of your message, Bullseye, but want to find out how to apply the Locktite (I believe we found out you meant "blue" locktite or equivalent, which is the medium strength version). Do I apply the medium locktite to the set screw, or to other areas underneath the base, or both, once I've reduced the dimple?

I guess I'd use carbureutor cleaner to degrease, unless there's another gun product that's better.

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Post by charlesb » Sat May 01, 2010 12:53 am

Brake cleaner is a great de-greaser, leaves no residue.

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Post by Bullseye » Sat May 01, 2010 9:21 am

Actually, I meant to say "High" strength, but the red #271 sealant was correct. I use it on front and rear sight bases to hold them fast. Apply a drop or two of the Locktite to the bottom of the dovetail slot (Remove the locking screw - do not have the set screw in the base at all) Position the base where you want it and let it sit overnight. Once set, install the lock (set screw) into the base. It won't matter if you use blue Locktite on the screw as it won't be holding the base secure anymore in the dovetail slot.

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Post by FourCornerm'n » Sun May 02, 2010 3:20 pm

Well, turns out I have GunScrubber degreasing stuff, so that part was easy, So was the filing. The dimples in the sight base slot were barely dimpled, at all.

Things are ready to set up, but I only have Permatex Medium Strength THREADLOCKER Blue stuff, not the Red Loctite that's been mentioned. Is this sufficient. Is it more practical. Or is it less practical?

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Post by Bullseye » Sun May 02, 2010 3:30 pm

I recommend using the red but if blue's all you got then give it a try. Be sure to completely remove the set screw or the thread locker will wick up into the screw threads and lock it in. Once the base is set up, after an overnight sit, then install the screw and thread lock it in place.

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Post by FourCornerm'n » Mon May 03, 2010 11:04 am

I put a couple of drops of the medium (blue) THREADLOCK on the sight base slot and maneuvered the sight onto this at about 5 PM yesterday. Been sitting upright ever since (the gun, that is). I didn't realize the Threadlock would be so watery - expected a gooey paste.

May be able to go shooting this afternoon before putting the rear sight set screw in permanently. I'll put the screw in and set it with Threadlock later tonight to let it cure until using the gun again Wednesday. Since the sight base will be held by the Threadlock, I think I'll just put enough of the stuff on the sight base set screw to keep it in its channel. These screws tend to break at their own screw driver slots and in case I ever want to remove the screw I'd better not anchor it down with more Threadlock than necessary.

It'll be a joy not to have to wonder why I'm starting to stray off my plates right or left and then discovery the sights gone for a vacation on its own.

I also am beginning to believe that I'd better discipline myself to regularly practicing bullseye shooting if I want to get the best results from my remaining few years as a competitor. The gun looks to be a prime candidate for that kind of practice.

Brings up a question - my other 22/45, a 5 1/2 inch stainless Target Model, has a crowned muzzle. I'd expect this practice gun (for me), a 6 7/8 inch blue Competition Target Model to have the muzzle crowned, and it doesn't. I wonder why not?

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Post by blue68f100 » Mon May 03, 2010 2:02 pm

There are several different type of crowns used these days. The 6 7/8 has a recessed crown.
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Post by FourCornerm'n » Tue May 04, 2010 1:29 am

Well, if it's not one thing with this gun, it's another - but also in another thread about action work. Your fix for the rear sight, Bullseye, held up well today at the range and I think it will continue to. I'll reset the set screw with a little ThreadLock in a few minutes and won't shoot again until Wednesday. Thanks for the clarity of your instruction.

I'm going to worry about whether this gun's muzzle is properly crowned sometime later. (Other things more important). I see the recess - but the stainless 5 1/2" bbl, which isn't recessed at the muzzle, has an angle cut around the circumference of the bore at the muzzle like all the S&W L Frames that I had the muzzles crowned in over the years. This Comp Target has the large recess as did my revolvers, but no angle cut into the bore. The bore's exit at the muzzle is 90 degrees to the to the recessed end of the barrel, not at an angle (which I thought constituted a crown). Other things that are actually doable, before this, however :-) .

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