Which Mark II hammer for Mark III 22/45

[blue68f100]

The Clark MKII Bushing is the best choice, since it eliminates one of the rotating surfaces removing creep.

[oldpal]

Just got a new Mark III 22/45 with removable grip panels. I have a Clark MK II hammer bushing #517 for the 22/45. I intend to remove the mag disconnect. When I replace the hammer bushing, magazine disconnector and its spring, do I need to also replace the hammer pivot pin with the one that came with the Clark bushing. Also the hammer pivot pin is captured under the left grip panel. I don't know if it is any different from the other MK III 22/45s with original grips. Thanks for any help.

Hugh

[Bullseye]

I haven't had a chance to inspect the RP yet. The idea behind the Clark bushing and pin set is to use both for maximum benefit on the trigger pull.

Does the factory RP hammer pivot pin have the locking groove cut in it? If it does then it works the same as the non-removable grip version even though it is covered up by the grip panels.

R,
Bullseye

[oldpal]

Does the factory RP hammer pivot pin have the locking groove cut in it? If it does then it works the same as the non-removable grip version even though it is covered up by the grip panels.

I haven't seen the factory pin yet. If it does have the locking groove, should I then use the Clark pin? Thanks.

Hugh

[Bullseye]

Does the factory RP hammer pivot pin have the locking groove cut in it? If it does then it works the same as the non-removable grip version even though it is covered up by the grip panels.

I haven't seen the factory pin yet. If it does has the locking groove, should I then use the Clark pin? Thanks.

Hugh

Yes.

R,
Bullseye

[oldpal]

Bullseye, thanks for this information and also for your excellent service instructions.

I haven't shot the pistol yet, but will tomorrow. Then I will tackle the extractor replacement and hammer bushing job. Thanks again.

Hugh

[Bullseye]

No problem. If you get stuck on anything, post here and I or one of the other members will lend a hand.

R,
Bullseye

[oldpal]

I haven't had a chance to inspect the RP yet. The idea behind the Clark bushing and pin set is to use both for maximum benefit on the trigger pull.

Does the factory RP hammer pivot pin have the locking groove cut in it? If it does then it works the same as the non-removable grip version even though it is covered up by the grip panels.

Well I tackled the Clark hammer bushing installation on my 22/45RP. Yes, Bullseye, the hammer pivot pin has the locking groove in it so I was prepared to use the pin that came with the bushing. The Clark pin is too long by about 1/8" and smaller diameter as well. It won't work in the 22/45RP. So I used the Ruger pivot pin and things seem to work. The magazine disconnect is defeated and the mags just fall out when the release button is pressed.

I also wanted to replace the Ruger extractor with a Volquartsen Exact Edge extractor. For the life of me I couldn't get my scribe between the extractor and its pin, so I left the stock extractor in the bolt. I guess I didn't have the right tool for the job. Anyway I didn't have any FTEs yesterday at the range.

Thanks again to everyone for all of the great information.

Hugh

[blue68f100]

I like using a 90 deg pick for pulling back on the extractor plunger. Being 90deg you have a little more control over a straight pick, and less likely to slip out. Once I had the pick in place I pulled back then pushed down to hold the bolt. This left one hand to remove and replace the extractor.

Glad you got every thing to work out. Did you get the kit for the 22/45 or the std MKII Clark Bushing?

[oldpal]

I like using a 90 deg pick for pulling back on the extractor plunger. Being 90deg you have a little more control over a straight pick, and less likely to slip out. Once I had the pick in place I pulled back then pushed down to hold the bolt. This left one hand to remove and replace the extractor.

Glad you got every thing to work out. Did you get the kit for the 22/45 or the std MKII Clark Bushing?

I was using a sharp point of a "divider." Like a compass without the pencil. My problem was not being able to get the point between the extractor and the plunger. I will try again next time I strip down the pistol.

I got the catalog item #517 from Clark. It is claimed to be for the 22/45. The card that came in the bushing package called it a "RUGER 22/45 Oversized Pin & Bushing Kit." I don't know what "oversized pin" means, but it would stick out on both sides of the pistol if I used it. It was also smaller in diameter than the stock pin.

Hugh

[Bullseye]

There's a little trick to getting the pick between the plunger and the extractor claw. You have to manually move the extractor claw outward. This pushes the plunger rearward and then you have to jam the pick in between the two parts. You then move the extractor claw to the closed position while holding the pick in place. It takes a little wiggling to get it in sometimes. Then you can use the pick to force the plunger all the way rearward to free the extractor claw. You may have to use a small pair of needle nosed pliers to pull out the extractor hook. Take care not to release the plunger too quickly or it will shoot out of the bolt.

Because the Clark pin set is designed for the 22/45 Mark II version it is wider than the factory 22/45 Mark III pin. that is because the polymer Mark II frame is quite a bit wider than the polymer Mark III frame. You can file the ends of the pin to size it for your frame. The oversized bushing means that it fits tightly in the hammer, this eliminates the free play between the components. No free play helps take the creepy feeling out of your trigger pull. The diameter of the Clark pin closely matches the inner diameter of the Clark bushing. This also reduces free play.

R,
Bullseye

[oldpal]

I'll try that trick the next time I get into the pistol. I'll ask my dentist for another tool. You all are right. The Clark bushing removed, as far as I can tell, almost all of the creep in the trigger.

Hugh